F 

,44 











Class 

Book— 



COPYRIGHT DEPOSIT 



THE 



WHITE MOUNTAIN 



GUIDE EOOK. 



5, C. 






CONCOKD: 

EDSON C. EASTMAN. 

1858. 




■:-\ 



T^f .... 






Entered according to Act of Congress, in the year 1858, by 

SAMUEL C. EASTMAN, 

In the Clerk's Office of the District Court of New Hampshire. 



JONES & COGSWELL 
^r{ntfr0, 

CONCOBD, N. H. 



PREFACE 



It is hoped that this Guide will form the most complete, accurate and 
reliable Guide, yet published, to the Mountain Region of New Hampshire. 
Those before issued, have been rather guides to than through the Moun- 
tains, containing plentiful descriptions of places on the way, but scanty 
accc uts of views and interesting scenes, really the object of the visit. 
Omissions and mistakes may, of course, occur. The editor is very solic- 
itous to be favored with corrections of these, founded upon personal know- 
ledge. Travellers willing to make such communications are requested to 
address them to the editor of the Guide Book, care of the Publisher, 

The editor has been greatly assisted in the preparation of this book by 
Rev. Thomas Starr King of Boston, Mr. Daniel Goodwin, and Rev. 
Augustus Woodbury of Providence, who have each contributed largely 
to its pages. 

Concord, N. H., May 25th, 1858. 



GUIDE 



NEW YORK TO WHITE MOUNTAINS. 

From tho city of New York, the point of immediate depar- 
ture for Southern, Western, and wo may add, a large portion 
of European travel into New England, seven distinct routes, 
more or less direct, lead to tho White Mountain region of New 
Hampshire. Four of these, are laid through tho city of Bos- 
ton; one through the City of Worcester, Mass., and thence up 
the valley of the Merrimac Kiver ; one through the cities of 
New Haven, Hartford, and Springfield, up the valley of tho 
Connecticut River, by railroad to Littleton, within three hours 
ride by stage-coach to Franconia ; and the seventh by way of 
the Hudson River, by rail or boat, to Albany, thence to Rut- 
land, and Bellows Falls, Vt., intersecting at the latter place 
with the route up tho Connecticut. 

The general view is as follows : 

1. New York to Boston, via Stonington and Provi<:lence, 
on Long Island Sound by Steamboat to Stonington ; thence to 
Providence and Boston by rail, arriving at Boston at 5 o'clock, 
A.M. 

2. New York to Boston, via Newport and Fall River, on 
Long Island Sound by Steamboat ; from Fall River by rail, 
arriving at Boston in season for the merning trains. North and 
East. 



A WUITE MOUNTAIN GUIDE. 

3. New York to Boston, via New LorKl:n and Noiwicli, 
on Long Island Sound, by Steamboat to Ailyn's Point ; thenco 
by rail through Worcester, arriving at Boston, about 5^, A.M. 

4. New Yoiik to Boston, by railroad, via Now Haven, 
Hartford, Springfield and Worcester. The cars leave New 
York, morning and afternoon, arriving at Boston about 4, P. M., 
and midnight. 

On reaching Boston, the tourist has his choice of the three 
following routes : 

(1.) Boston to Poltlanp, over the Boston & Maine Bail- 
road from Haymarket Square, passing through Andover and 
Lawrence, Mass., Exeter and Dover, N. H.; or tlie Eastern 
Railroad from Causeway Street, ])assing tlirough Lynn, Salem 
and Newbury port, Mass., and Portsmouth, N. H. Tho two 
roads unite at South Berwick, Me. A third route is by tljo 
steamboats which leave the wharf at tlie foot of Milk street, 
every evening and arrive at Portland early in tho morning. 
Arriving at Portland, in five hours from Boston, the traveller 
can immediately leave, (after refreshment,) for the " Alpinjs," 
or "Glen" House, Gorham, N. II., by the St. Lawrence & 
Atlantic Railroad, thus reaching the Ei^stern side of the Moun- 
tains the same day. The time by this route, is from New York 
to Boston, eleven hours; Boston to ]\)rtl:ind, five hours; Port- 
land to Gorham, four to five hours, or iaclading detentions, 
not far from twenty-four hour3. By taking one of the Sound 
boats in the afternoon, Gorham can be reached on the afternoon 
of the next day, without hurry or unusual fatigue. 

(2.) Boston to Dover, N. H., by Boston & IMainc Rail- 
road; thence by Cccheco Railroad to Alton, N. H., at tho 
southern end of Lake Winnipesaukee ; thence by Steamer 
Dover, over tlie Lake to V/olf borough and Senter Harbor, 
dining on board the boat, and reaching Senter Harbor in season 
for a Stage Coach to Conway ; thenco to the Mountains by 
stage the next morning. 



WUITE MOUNTAIN GUIDE. O 

(3.) Boston to Concord, N. II., by Boston & Maino, and 
Concord, Manchester & Lawrence Railroads, Haymarket Square, 
passing through Lawrence, Mass., and Manchester, N. H. 
At the latter place, a train from Boston, via Lowell and Nash- 
ua, over Lowell, (Causeway st.,) and Lowell & Nashua Bail- 
roads, unites with this route, and both streams of travel pour 
on together to Concord, N. IT. Hero connections are mado 
with («) the Northern Railroad, which connects at White River 
Junction with the route up the Connecticut. Passengers by 
this route reach Franconia, by way of Littleton, the same eve- 
ning, at 9 o'clock, (b) The Montreal Railroad, by which pas- 
sengers proceed to the Weirs' Station, Lake Winnipesaukeo, 
whence the Steamer Lady of the Lake, conveys them to Senior 
Harbor, in season for the afternoon stage to Conway. If the 
tourist desires to reach Franconia on the same day ho passes by 
rail upon the same road, to Plymouth, N. H., where be stops to 
dine, at Buhnham's famous Pemigewasset House, and takes 
the afternoon stage for the Flume and Profile Houses, arriv- 
ing at the latter about 9 o'clock, P. M., or he may go on to 
Littleton and arrive at the same time as by the Northern Rail- 
road. Leaving New York, in the afternoon, one could reach 
Franconia or Conway, if he so desired, on the evening of tho 
next day. 

6. New York to Concord, N. H., by way of Norwich, 
Worcester, and Nashua. Tho traveller reaches Worcester by 
rail, through New-Haven, &c., or by boat and rail, through 
Norwich. Connections are made directly with the Worcester 
& Nashua Railroad, and he proceeds without detention, except 
for refreshment, to Nashua, N. H. Here he takes the cars of 
the Concord Railroad for Concord, N. IL, and has the choice 
of tho routes enumerated afjove. The time required is the same 
as that for the preceding route. 

6. New York to Franconia by rail except the last twelve 
miles from Littleton. Tho traveller by this route leaves New 



WHITE MOUNTAIN GUIDE. 



York by the New- York & New-Haven Railroad, and proceeds 
as far as Springfield, IVfass., without change of ears. At this 
place he takes the cars of the Connecticut River Railroad, pas- 
sing through Northampton and Holyoke, and in sight of Mt. 
Tom on the west side, and Mt. Holyoke on the east side of tho 
river, through Greenfield to South Yernon, Vt. From this 
place, the Yermont Yalley Railroad passes through Brattle- 
borough to Bellows Falls. Thence the route proceeds by 
Sullivan Railroad to Windsor, Yt.; thence by Yermont Central 
Railroad to White River Junction, where the route by North- 
ern Railroad connects; thence by Passumpsio Railroad to 
Wells River; thence by White Mountains Railroad to Littleton, 
and thence by stage to Franconia. This route, after leaving 
Hartford, continues up the valley of the Connecticut, till it 
reaches Wells River, and affords a view of the beautiful scenery, 
which makes this valley a *' garden of delight." The time is 
longer than by the other routes, as it requires two days to reach 
Franconia, but no one will regret the prolongation of the pleas- 
ant journey. 

7. New York to Feanconia, via Albany, Rutland, and 
Bellows Falls, Yt. Passengers leave New- York by Hudson 
River Railroad, or by boat, reaching Troy in season for tho 
cars over the Rutland and Washington, or Western Yermont 
Railroad to Rutland, where they remain over night ; leaving 
by early train the next morning, they reach Bellows Falls, in 
time to connect with the trains north, to Windsor, White River 
and Littleton, thus uniting at Bellows Falls, with the route just 
named. The time is the same as by route No. 6. This is 
without doubt the most beautiful and satisfactory of all the 
routes proposed. Besides the magnificently varied scenery of 
the Hudson, one enjoys to the highest degree the ride through 
the mountain State of Yermont. Her hills are covered with 
verdure to the very summits, and the little hamlets that nestle in 



WHITE MOUNTAIN GUIDE, O 

tlio valleys, are the abodes of comfort and happiness and virtue. 
There is, too, 

*' A ncAVcr life iu every gale,'' 

as the fresh mountain air, witli its invigorating influence, brings 
the roses to the checks, and vivifies the frame. 



THE MOUNTAIN REGION. 

After having given this preliminary view of the dlfforcnfe 
approaches to the White Mountains, we propose to give a par- 
ticular view of the Mountain region. After this is completed, 
wo will givo a more detailed account of the different routes 
before mentioned. We shall thus be enabled to give a greater 
symmetry to the whole book than could be obtained by first 
giving the routes to, and then through the region to be visited. 
As the various roads approach the mountains at different points 
we shall also avoid much needless repetition. The size of the 
book will thus be diminished while its convenience for consulta- 
tion will be greatly increased. 

We will commence, then, at Gorham, N, H., on the eastern 
side of the Mountains. 

GrORHAM, N, H., is a thriving village which has been built 
up on the banks of the Androscoggin by the business which the 
Kailroad and the Hotel have brought. The Alpine House, 
is one of the largest of the Hotels in the White Mountain 
region. It is the most substantially built of all. Under the 
charge of Mr. Hitchcock it is admirably kept. Passengers 
a.'o deposited from the cars directly in front of the House as 
in the annexed picture. The main building is one hundred 
1* 



ililhlLi'MfS*'Mi, 







t-l 

o 

O 



a 
5 






WHITE MOUNTAIN GUIDE. 7 

feet in front by fifty in width, and is three stories high. 
There is an L of the same dimensions. The dining room is a 
noble hall eighty feet by thirty. The House can accommodate 
between two and three hundred guests. 

The Alpine House is situated in a valley at the junction of 
the Androscoggin and Peabody rivers. The valley is 800 feet 
above the sea. The breadth of it is so great that the air is 
more dry, pure and bracing, than in the more narrow passes, 
directly under the lofty summits, where many of the larger 
public houses are placed. On this account, it has often been 
found more grateful and propitious to invalids, who are advised 
to try the mountain atmosphere. There is a post office in the 
Hotel. Mails are received every day from Montreal, and twice 
a day by railroad from Boston and Portland. To the other 
advantages must also bo added a telegraph station connected 
with the Alpine House. Communication is thus practicable, at 
all times, with all parts of the United States and with Canada. 

The scenery iiinnediately around the Alpine House in the 
Gorham village, when the proper points are sought for enjoying 
it, is very interesting. It is the only spot from which the beauty 
of the range of Moriah, Carter, and the Imp can be seen to 
advantage. Mt. Carter is about 5,000 feet in height. The 
base from which it rises being much lower than the level of the 
Franconia Notch, the summit of Carter is really higher, as seen 
from Gorham, than Mt. Lafiiyette, the highest of the Franconia 
range, is from the lovely Echo Lake, near the Profile House. 
And there are few more charming spectacles among the mount- 
ains than the heavy shadows that are tangled in the deep-cut 
stairways of Mt. Carter, contrasted with the soft lights that lie 
on its steep, unbroken forests, in a clear summer afternoon. 
Mt, Moriah is some 200 feet lower than Mt. Carter, and is 
remarkable for the rolling, billowy lines that flow from its dome 
along its huge mass to the valley. It is, perhaps, the most 
graceful in its outline of any of the larger New Hampshire hills. 
The true position from which to detect its beauty and appreciate 



m^n 



I 



m 



I I. liL 



ill, ( 



It, 



ill' 



■m 



:'® 






j^^^r." 



WHITE MOUNTAIN GUIDE. 



9 



its height, is at tho bend of the Androscoggin, near *' Lary's," 
about a mile above the Alpine House. If the visiter will take 
this walk just before a clear sunset, he will see the whole ridgo 
bathed in the richest purple — a sight that is one of the richest 
rewards of a mountain journey. We regret that we have no 
sketch of Mt. Moriah. We give however a view of a portion 
of the range as seen from Gorham. 

The lower mountain that stands between Moriah and Carter 
IS called the Imp. This name has been given to it from tho 
marked resemblance which the summit, seen from a certain 
point, bears to a grotesque human countenance. We give a 
drawing of the queer expression which the peak offers. 








To get this view one must cross the Peabody river to the 
westerly side, in tho afternoon. Leave the road to the Glen 
about two miles from the Glen House. Such a visit is a pleas- 
ant accompaniment to a ride from the Alpine House to the 
Glen ; or it can be made directly from the Glen House, by 
those who are making their chief visit at that delightful spot. 

The noble chain of hills to the north-west of the Alpine 
House is known as the Pilot range. The lines thoy cut against 



10 WniTE MOUNTAIN GUIDE. 

a clear and burning evening sky are very charming. To the 
east and south-east, Gorbnm is walled in by the stalwart and 
brawny Androscoggin hills. The noblest of these is Mt. Hayes 
directly behind the Alpine House. Its name was given in 
honor of Mrs. Hayes who was once associated as landlady in 
the management of the Hotel, and who is gratefully remembered 
by all guests who became acquainted with her. The mountain 
stands now the noblest external monument to her memory. 

The first thing which travellers usually wish to know when 
they arrive in Gorham, is the distance to Mt. Washington, and 
the time and methods of making the ascent. Mt. Vv^ashington 
is eight miles distant from the Railroad Station in Gorham. 
Stages are in waiting at every train to convey passengers to the 
Glen House, which is situated directly at its base. The ascent 
of the mountain, however, may be made from either house. If 
travellers are in a hurry to reach the Glen House, and prefer to 
start from that point, they ride in the stages eight miles to that 
hotel, and take horses there. The landlord of ihe Alpine 
House also keeps a stable of excellent mountain ponies near the 
foot of Mt. Washington. If travellers desire, therefore, they 
can have a wagon from Gorham, be driven to the base of the 
mountain, take ponies and guide there, make the ascent, and 
stay at the Glen House when they descend, or ride back at once 
to the Alpine House. The road is precisely the same, and the 
expense the same, in whichever way the excursion is made. It 
is well to know, however, that horses and guides are furnished 
from Gorham as well as from the Glen. For it sometimes hap- 
pens that travellers arrive in Gorham by the eleven o'clock 
forenoon train from Portland, who would like to make the ascent 
of Mt. Washington that day, and return to Portland, or go on 
to Montreal, the next morning. This is almost always practi- 
cable, and has often been done from Gorham. By taking a 
wagon from the Alpine House, the base of Mfc. Washington is 
reached quicker than by stage ; the ascent is made in the after- 



WillTE MOUNTAIN GUIDE. 11 

noon ; and tho convG3'anco is in waiting- to return the passenger, 
as soon as he descends, to the Alpine House again. 

But if travellers are not in a great hurry, thcj should cer- 
tainly make their plans to see the striking scenery that is offered 
near tho Alpine IIouso. No point in the whole mountain region 
presents more attractions within reach of a short and delightful 
wagon drive, a pleasant horseback-ride up a bridle path, or a 
tolerably easy mountain-scramble. The first of these excursions 
to which we will call attention is that to 

The Lead Mine Bridge. 

The name is derived from an abandoned lead-mine about six 
miles below Gorham, on tho eastern bank of the Androscoggin, 
in Shelburno. The Bridge is about four miles from the Alpine 
House. The proper time to visit it is in the latter part of a 
summer afternoon, when the golden light is on tho meadows, 
and tho long shadows are falling athwart the mountains. There 
is no spot in tho whole mountain region where the beauty of a 
river is joined so charmingly to tho majesty of the hills. No 
river-view can be moro fascinating than that of the noble An- 
droscoggin breaking around emerald islands with clean sandy 
sh.ores, and joining its parted currents again into one strong tido 
just above the bridge where one stands. And then a few miles 
distant, enthroned over the narrow valley, as though the stream 
flowed directly from their base, rises the heavy dome of Mt. 
Washington, in company with the clear-cut exquisite pyramid 
of Madison. 

Tho height of tho noblest mountains is never appreciated 
by going close to their base, if they are foreshortened by ridges 
intervening between the eye and tho supreme summits. Tho 
Lead-mine Bridge is just far enough away from the White hills 
to allow their height to make its true impression. And whoever 
sees Mt. Madison thus, in a clear afternoon, will recall tho 
impression it makes, as perhaps tlie loveliest picture which tho 
White Mountain journey leaves in the memory. Three hours 



12 WUITE MOUNTAIN GUIDE. 

from the Alpine PIouso will give ample time for the cxcuraion. 
Teams and drivers are always in readiness for the accommoda° 
tion of guests. 

Next among the privileges of Gorham wo must speak of a 
drive from the Alpine House to 

Kandolpii Hill. 

This hill is on the road to the villages of Randolph and 
Jefferson, and is about five miles from the hotel. There is no 
climbing to be done ; the wagon is driven directly to the summit, 
and the road is excellent. By this drive one is taken directly 
to the northerly base of Madison and Jefferson. He sees the 
whole northerly wall of the Mt. Washington range from crest 
to valley. The height is far greater than the wall of the Craw- 
ford Notch. There is no point, where standing so near, any of 
the White Mountains look so lofty and so grand. Certainly no 
valley view can be gained of Mt. Washington that compares 
with the grandeur of Jefferson from this position. Only a 
suggestion of the sublimity of this view is gi\*n in the plate 
which we introduce. The sense of height, the tremendous mass, 
the grand masonry, the rich forest-verdure, the silence, the twin 
outlines of the two mountains, and the symmetry of the grey 
and blasted peaks that rise and face each other above the vast 
wilderness that clothes their sides, combine to make an impression 
on the eye and soul that years will not efface. A traveller 
should not fail to take this view, if possible ; and no discomfort 
is connected with the excursion. An hour is sufficient for the 
drive to llandolph Hill from the Alpine House ; and three 
quarters of an hour for the return. 

We must call attention, next, to 

Berlin Falls. 

Those who love water-views and cataract-scenery will say that 
these Falls are the richest of all the attractions that invest Gor- 
ham. They are situated six miles from the Alpine House, 
But the road that leads to them is excellent ; the drive is taken 




'^"ipflifc 



i 1 




14 



WHITE MOUNTAIN GUIDE. 



in an hour ; and tho scenery on the way, along the banks of 
the Androscoggin, is continually noble, wild, and stimulating. 
It is no rivulet or mountain cascade one visits at Berlin. The 
whole Androscoggin, fed from a branch of Lake Umbagog, and 
never low even in a drought, like the Upper Connecticut, pours 
here down a rocky gateway. It is a long swift rapid, broken 
here and there by a direct and powerful fall. In the course of 
two miles the river descends more than two hundred feet. The 
road winds directly by the river, and there is no hard clambering 
or wet walking in the excursion. 




View of Berlin Falls. 

The first view as one alights from the wagon reveals the river 
for a quarter of a mile flecked with little white caps at the 
uppermost rapids, then plunging in a winding rush of foam, 
then calmed again, and flowing with its ruffled caps towards 
Gorham. After taking this general look, which is very fasci- 
nating, we must select points for observing the heavier pitches 
of the river, and estimating the force of the cataract. We must 
go down upon a jutting rock that faces the sweeping tide, and 
see the last leap of the mad tide over a huge boulder, before it 



WUITE MOUNTAIN GUIDE. 15 

settles into common rapids again ; we must go np and stand on 
the bridge that crosses the narrowest gully, and watch the foam 
sweep underneath like a race-horse — the backwater from each 
side overlaying the central current, so that it rushes in wedge 
shape, or like an enormous flatiron, nose first, through the gorge ; 
especially must we go last above the bridge, and sit down upon 
the rocks, to watch, at leisure, the first and deepest plunge of 
the river. Although the bridge is very near, one has no con- 
ception, in looking from it, of the grandeur of this portion of 
the fall. One can sit by it for an hour with increasing delight. 
Visitors have said that it repaid for the cost and time of a visit 
to the mountains, and that all the other scenery was extra. 
The power of this part of the fall is so satisfactory, the quantity 
of water so great, and the flood of foam that sweeps away from 
it so full of life, that wo have never been able to recall, while 
sitting there, aught that surpasses it in the suggestion of power, 
but the English fall at Niagara. We quote the declaration of a 
prominent poet of New England, given with emphasis on the 
spot once, in our hearing, when we say that it is better worth 
visiting than the falls of St. Anthony. 

There should be a small and well-kept public house at Berlin, 
that visitors might have leisure, and the cool parts of the day, 
and especially a full-moonlight evening, for wandering around 
the banks, and enjoying the rapids and plunges of the river. 

A visit to the falls is easily made from the iVlpine House 
between breakfast and dinner, or in the afternoon before tea. 
But one needs to go several times, as at Trenton, and also to 
have leisure for studying the grand forms and summits of the 
outer White Mountains, which tower with a symmetry that does 
not disturb their solid and serious majesty, a little to tlie west. 
In fact, the mountain panorama, visible from the road just above 
the falls, is one of the most inspiring to be found within the 
compass of the New Hampshire tour. But noontime is the 
worst season for a visit to the cataract, on account of heat. In 
July or August, a cool day, or a cloudy one, would be best. 



16 WHITE MOUNTAIN GUIDE. 

It would be among the richest joys of a September'visit to 
Gorbam, to give the heart of one of its clear bracing days to 
an excursion along the Androscoggin — dining on the rocks 
above the bridge ; and, returning towards sunset, to face for the 
most of the way, the great White Mountain range, stained with 
a glorious brown light, and the range of Moriah and Carter, 
lifting purple peaks and ridges against the blue southern sky. 

But besides the attractions to be reached by wagon rides, 
there are excursions to be made from the Alpine House, on 
horseback or on foot, that must be spoken of. 

The Ascent of Mt. Moriah 
is the first to be named. There is an excellent bridle-path to 
the summit, and a large log cabin has been built there, for 
partial protection against a squall or a thunder shower that might 
overtake a party on the ridge. The mountain is just 4,700 
feet in height. Most of the way the path is cut through the 
fresh, rich wildemess. 

What can be more delightful than a ride on a clever horse up 
such a mountain path > The air is so fresh and fragrant ! The 
sun chequers the mosses, and the pale, undecayed leaves of the 
previous Autumn so charmingly with spots of light, that shifts 
as the wind plays with the overhanging leaves ! The crackling 
of branches under the horse's hoofs has a cheery sound. Old 
rocks, soft with moss, and dripping with moisture, tell you that 
you are invading a sanctuary that had been sacred for centuries 
from the foot of man. 

Now and then, through the trees, a glimpse is gained of a 
grand coliseum of pines on the steep and crescent sides of a 
near mountain, from which a ravine separates you. Now and 
then, you come upon some bare ledge or shoulder, from which 
you look down the valley of the Androscoggin for miles, and 
admire the forethought of nature in leaving this easy track 
among these billowy ridges of land, for the Atlantic & St. Law- 
rence road. Soon you plunge into the woods again, and are 



WHITE MOUNTAIN GUIDE. 17 

borne up and up by tho panting horse till the shrubs begin to 
grow scanty, and suddenly you are on the desolate and jagged 
peak. What a view ! The face of nature seems to have been 
torn by some mighty harrow. The eye must travel far to the 
southwest to rest upon any extent of level land. Northern 
New Hampshire, Vermont and Maine, is a vast panorama of 
solid surges. On tho west, the distant view is barred by tho 
heavy forms of the great White Mountain range proper. 

In this respect a visit to Mt. Moriah is more interesting than 
to Mt. Washington ; for here Mt. Washington is part of the 
landscape. Its height and mass, and the grandeur of its fellow 
peaks, can be relatively measured, as they cannot when one 
stands on their ridges. The whole excursion can easily be made 
in five hours ; — two hours to ascend, a little less to return, and 
about an hour on the summit. 

But it may bo that tho traveller docs not care to make an 
ascent of a mountain so high as this, in addition to tho ascent 
of Mt. Washington, or instead of that ascent. We will call 
attention, therefore, to 

Mount Surprise, 
and the charm of tho prospect that is opened from it. This 
mountain is directly in front of the Alpine House. It is in fact 
one of the spurs of Mt. Moriah, and is about 1,200 feet in 
height. The bridle-path to tho top is not difficult at all in the 
ascent. Good walkers can gain tho crest without trouble in 
an hour, and can return in half that time. It is an easy and 
charming horseback excursion for ladies. And the view which 
the summit offers is different in character from any that wo 
recall in the mountain region. It suggests the marvellous 
picture of the Notch seen from Mt. Willard. The height of 
Mt. Surprise is about the same as that of Mt. Willard. And 
it commands the great cleft between Mt. Carter and tho White 
Mountains, through which the Peabody river flows, as Mt. Wil- 
lard commands the Notch and the infant Saco. 
2* 



18 WHITE MOUNTAIN GUIDE. 

The top of Mt. Surprise is worth visiting, apart from the view 
it furnishes, for the savage revelation it offers of the ruin which 
fire and winds can work on the hills. Scores of great tree- 
trunks, stripped, charred and half-consumed, are heaped and 
twisted over an acre or two of the crest and side of the hill, in 
impressive confusion. The whole scene is the hieroglyphic 
autobiography, it may be, of the destructive partnership of July 
lightning and January gale. The chief payment for the ascent, 
however, is not this broad " charcoal sketch" of ravage, but the 
eight, gained amid that dingy desolation, of the grandest por- 
tions of the White Mountain ridge. The highest summits of 
the range rise directly against the eye. There is no intervening 
ridge, or obstacle. You look down 1,200 feet to the bed of the 
Peabody which is fed from the great range, and up along the 
unbroken forests to the peak of Mt. Madison, the crest of Jef- 
ferson that overtops it, and at the southwest of these, the summit 
of Adams, and the mass of Mt. Washington. There is no 
other eminence where one can get so near to these monarchs, 
and receive such an impression of their sublimity, the vigor of 
their outlines, their awful solitude, and the extent of the wilder- 
ness which they bear up on their slopes. The scene is so wild 
and glorious, and the cost of labor to gain it so slight, that it is 
a pity any visitants of the eastern side of the mountains should 
fail to add it to their treasures of memory. And besides this 
view of the great range, the outlook from Mt. Surprise over the 
mountains of the North, and up the valley through which the 
Androscoggin twists its way, is very grand. On horseback 
from the Alpine House, the whole jaunt can be made in two 
hours and a half, with ample time for the Summit. 

We have already spoken of 

Mount Hayes, 
which rises just behind the Alpine House, beyond the Andros- 
coggin. If there were a bridle-path to the top of this eminence, 
it would soon be celebrated as affording the grandest landscape 



WniTE MOUNTAIN GUIDE. 19 

View of Madison, Jefferson, and Washington to bo obtained in 
New Hampshire. As it is, every man who visits Gorham and 
who has a love of mountain scrambles, may well be urged to 
obtain the services of Mr. Gordon, as guide, and scale Mt. 
Hayes. About two hours from the base will be sufficient to 
gain the top. The picture from the summit cannot be sufficiently 
praised. The view of Jefferson, and Madison, sweeping from 
the uplands of Randolph will never be forgotten. And Mt. 
Washington shows no such height, or grandeur, when seen from 
any other point. Mt. Washington does not show its superior 
height, or look grander in form than the associated peaks, from 
any position in the valleys near Gorham and the Glen. But 
from Mt. Hayes its supereminence and majesty are caught and 
appreciated. That summit seems to be the chair set by Prov- 
idence at the right distance and angle to observe and enjoy its 
majesty, its symmetry, and the proud grace with which its " airy 
citadel" is sustained against the sky. And by way of dessert 
to this substantial feast of mountain grandeur, a most charming 
view of the curves of the Androscoggin for twenty miles, of its 
exquisite islands, and of the meadows which it threads, is given 
from Mt. Hayes. 

There is another pedestrian excursion possible from Gorham, 
of which we should not fail to speak. We mean, the 

Ascent of Mt. Madison, 
from the foot of Randolph Hill, and a visit to the northerly 
ridge and summits of the White Mountain group. To those 
who love mountain climbing and the wildest scenery which the 
hills can exhibit, no more tempting expedition than this can be 
proposed. Several parties made this excursion last year, some- 
times camping out in a ravine, or on the ridge. Their reports 
of the grandeur and magnificence of the views that rewarded 
their toil are very inspiring. A company of strong pedestrian?* 
starting from the Alpine House, Gorham, early in the morning, 
and riding to tlie base of Mt. Madison, at the foot of Randolph 



20 WHITE MOUNTAIN GUIDE. 

Hill, could ascend Mt. Madison, pass over its summit, around 
or over the sharp pyramid of Jefferson, over Adams, between 
the humps of Mt. Clay, and reach the house on the top of Mt. 
Washington, before sunset. 

Such a route would lie among and over the largest mountains 
of the range. Between Madison and Jefferson, the party would 
sec the noblest outlines of rocky precipice and crest which the 
whole range can furnish ; for they would stand directly between 
the steep pinnacles of those noble hills, that spring from tho 
ridge. They could climb to the sharp apex of Jefferson. They 
would see the glorious picture of Washington that starts out in 
crossing from Jefferson to Adams. The long easterly slope is 
shown from its base in the Pinkham forests ; the cone towers 
sheer out of ** The Gulf of Mexico ;" and every rod of the 
bridle-path is visible from the Ledge to the Summit House. 

And the route brings into view all the great ravines of the 
range, except " Tuckerman's." One will see the long and 
narrow gully between Madison and Jefferson, and the tremeu' 
dous hollow of JefJerson itself on the north, which was 
climbed for the first time in 1857, by a party formed by the 
writer, and which is now called by the guides, ** King's 
Ravine." He will see the precipitous gulf between Jefferson 
and Adams on the southeast ; the deep cut gorge in Adams, on 
the northwest, whose bones of grey cliff, breaking bare through 
the steep verdure, will be remembered as the most picturesque 
of all the scenes which the day gives. He will wind around 
the chasm between Adams and Clay, divided from the savage 
" Gulf of Mexico " by a spur of Adams, that runs out toward 
the Glen House. And he will gaze off with delight upon tho 
long rolling braces that prop Mt. Pleasant, and Franklin, and 
the tawny Monroe, — the boundaries of the ravines that one sees 
in riding to Mt. Washington from the Notch, over the Crawford 
bridle-path. 

A path through the forest of Mt. Madison to the summit, 
from the foot of Randolph Hill, has been "blazed," by Mr. 



WHITE MOUNTAIN GUIDE. 



21 



Gordon, of Gorham. No more competent or faithful guide 
than Mr. Gordon, could be desired for this expedition, or for 
the ascent of Mt. Hayes, or for any tramp among the unvisited 
portions of the mountains. He has, several times, accompanied 
exploring and visiting parties to Umbagog Lake, which can be 
reached in about a day from Gorham. Travellers can easily 
learn at the Alpine House how to engage him for any service. 

Before turning from the scenery around Gorham, we must 
speak of the stage routes from Gorham to** The Notch." There 
are two roads, One passes through the Glen, the Pinkham 
forest, the village of Jackson, and up through Bartlett to the 
Crawford House, which is just beyond the Notch itself. The 
distance from Gorham by this route, is forty-four miles ; from 
♦* The Glen," thirty-six miles. The stages do not start from 
Gorham, but from the Glen House. They leave about 8 o'clock 
in the morning. Travellers, therefore, who desire to go by this 
road must be at the Glen House over night, or must take a ride 
of eight miles from the Alpine House to the Glen, early in the 
morning, in order to reach the stage. 

There is another route from Gorham to the Notch, by what 
is called " The Cheuiiy Mountain Road." The distance by 
this route is thirty-two miles. There are no regular stages over 
it, as over the road from the Glen House. But Mr. Hitchcock, 
the landlord of the Alpine House, provides excellent teams and 
drivers for all parties who wish to reach the Notch by this road. 
The price of seats in these extra teams, is, we believe, but little 
more than the regular stage fares amount to, from Gorham, by 
the other route, 

It is to be regretted that there is not a regular line of stages 
by this route to the Notch. For the scenery along almost the 
whole line of the road is grander than by any other stage route 
among the mountains. It takes in the glorious spectacle from 
Randolph Hill, of which we have spoken. It commands every 
slope and summit of the Mt. Washington range from the north ; 
and for some twelve miles of the way they arc all in view at 



22 WHITE MOUNTAIN GUIDE. 

once, with no intervening hills to break the impression of their 
majesty. Such a view can be gained on no other road ; and 
the forms of the mountains on the northerly slope are grander 
than on the southerly side. From the village of Jefferson, 
through which this Cherry Mountain road runs, not only is 
every one of the great White Mountain group visible, but also 
the Franconia Mountains, the side of the Willey Mountain in 
the Notch, the line of nearer Green Mountains beyond the 
Connecticut, — in fact, a panorama of hills to the northwest and 
north, almost as fine as the prospect in that direction from the 
summit of Mt. Washington. So striking is the view from the 
village of Jefferson that, doubtless, if a good hotel should bo 
built there, that village would be one of the most popular resorts 
in New England before many years. To see this picture would 
richly repay a drive from Oorham and return, if the traveller 
did not desire to pass on to the Notch. The noblest part of the 
view can be had without leaving the wagon, from a hill in Jef- 
ferson, about twelve miles from the Alpine House. 

The return ride from the Notch to Gorham, by Cherry Moun- 
tain, is, in some respects, superior to the ride the other way. 
From Jefferson to Gorham, it is certainly more grand, than 
when facing in the other direction. 

For several miles we front the four highest mountains of the 
ridge, and seem to be riding into them, with no chance of a 
detour. How massive they seem as we draw nearer and nearer ! 
The summits appear of about equal height, and instead of 
presenting thin and gullied sides, all their lines run outward 
towards us and are firmly braced in the valley, as though they 
were immense forts, once upheaved and buttressed with granite 
ridges, to defend an army of a larger mould than our race, 
against a siege. The Notch itself is hardly more majestic than 
this quadruple fortification, which glooms and darkens more and 
more upon the eye as we ride nearer to it, and which springs 
out of a wild forest as yet almost unvihjited by man. For sev- 
eral miles the vision lasts. Then Washington drops away from 



WUITE MOUNTAIN GUIDE. 23 

the company, and wo are left with Adams, Jefferson, and Mad- 
ison. Next, Adams withdraws, and we ride by the base of the 
remaining two. Soon their grand lines untwist, and their rocks 
seem, as it were, to be dishevelled, till we gain the summit of 
Randolph Hill, overlooking Gorham, and find that, by inexpli- 
cable magic they have been transformed into superb symmetry 
again, and hide from the delighted eye every trace of those 
glorious compeers, that had joined with them in threatening 
the valley of Randolph, a few miles behind. 

Parties may feel reasonably sure that they can obtain excel- 
lent wagons and experienced drivers for this Cherry Mountain 
route, at any time, from Mr. Hitchcock of the Alpine House in 
Gorham. And so many parties are sent in this way to the 
Notch, that travellers staying at the Crawford House can very 
often find, on inquiry, teams about to return to Gorham, that 
will enable them to view the magnificent scenery of the return 
ride. 

The proprietor of the Alpine House is also prepared to fur- 
nish carriages and drivers to parties of any size for a tour of the 
mountains, as well as for a visit to the Notch. 

And now let us turn to 

The Glen. 

This charming spot is situated eight miles, as we have said, 
from Gorham. Until the opening of the Atlantic & St. Law- 
rence Railroad, a few years ago, it was an unvisited waste. At 
first a Public House of very modest proportion was erected. 
Soon it was found necessary to enlarge it, and then to increase 
its size again ; and now one of the largest and grandest Hotels 
of the White Mountain region stands there for the benefit of 
travellers. The main building is 130 feet in length, 42 in 
width, and four stories high. There is a grand portico to tho 
principal entrance. Over this is a balcony upon which tho 
second story windows open, from which may be had an unin- 
terrupted view of the five highest mountains of New England. 



24 WHITE MOUNTAIN GUIDE. 

From this balcony, also, the guests of the Hotel can watch with 
a glass the progress of the horseback parties ascending or de- 
scending the rugged ledges of Mt. Washington. The dining 
room is a noble hall calculated to seat two hundred persons ; 
and the withdrawing rooms, which front towards the Mountains 
and the rushing Peabody river, are spacious, airy, and exceed- 
ingly pleasant. 

The Glen House, since the commencement, has been under 
the charge of Mr. J. M. Thompson. How acceptably ho has 
fulfilled his duty as proprietor and landlord is attested, better 
than any words of ours can describe, by the crowds that seek 
his hospitality, in the hottest weeks of summer, from all parts 
of the country. Spacious as the Hotel is, it often overflows 
with guests in August. 

We give a picture of the Glen House. But the plate does 
no justice to its situation. It stands on a plateau, 830 feet 
above the Gorham valley, and 1,632 feet above tide water at 
Portland, in the midst of a magnificent mountain bowl. Be* 
hind it bend the thin high ridges of Mt. Carter and its spurs, 
3,000 feet in height, and green with unbroken forests to their 
crests. On the southwest, one sees the steep, bony braces of 
Mt. Washington, running off one behind the other into the 
Pinkham forests and towards Jackson. Directly in front are 
the outworks and huge shoulder of Mt. Washington itself, and 
behind this heavy shoulder, on a retreating ridge, the pin- 
nacle where the Summit House stands. Associated directly 
with Mt. Washington, and bending around to the north-west 
and north, are Mt. Clay, rising over the huge '* Gulf of Mexi- 
co ;" the stout, square shouldered Adams ; and the symmetrical, 
sharp, and splendid pyramid of Jefferson, with its peak so pointed 
that it looks unscaleable. This mountain is by far the grandest 
in shape and irapressiveness of all. And next to this with lines 
running eastward is Mt. Madison which completes the staff of 
Washington. Thus the five highest summits of the White Hills 




'I 






:'H 






? I .Mmi 



i|jP 



f^'^'%-^^^^^w^''^l 



26 -VyillTE MOUNTAIN GUIDE. 

are, as we have said, in full view directly in front of the Hotel 
in the Glen. The height of Mt. Washington is 6,285 feet ; 
Mt. Clay, 5,011 ; Mt. Adams, 5,710 ; Mt. Jefferson, 5,790 ; 
Mt. Madison, 5,361. 

No Public House among the Mountains is situated so near 
the Mt. Washington range as this. There are views of the 
Mountains to be had at a little greater distance that will give 
more pleasure to the artistic sense ; but no view of the chief 
White Mountain range can be had from a Hotel that is com- 
parable with this which the piazza of ths Glen House offers. 

The best time to approach it is in the clear afternoon of a 
summer day, when the shadows fall soft and rich in the gorges 
and over the rugged slopes of the chain. Then the mountains 
look higher, and their grandeur is tempered with a mystic 
beauty. There is perpetual charm, too, in watching the play of 
the vapors around the cliffs and in the ravines, on a misty and 
showery day in August. Now they will wrap a long mountain 
"wall in a cold, grey mantle to the base. Now they will break 
along a ridge, and reveal the harsh sides of a chasm, or the 
ramparts of a ridge, hanging seemingly in the clouds. Soon 
they will thin away below for a mile, and show the green fore- 
ground softened by a moist veil. Next they will knot them- 
selves into thick rolls, and then stretch themselves slowly into 
sleazy textures, as though they were made of vapory India 
rubber. Once in a while, they will lift themselves nearly to 
the summit of a ridge, and try to plunge down again, — really 
tiring the eye that watchs them 

Sink b}- compulsion and laborious flight. 
And sometimes they will break entirely around one of the 
mountains, Jefferson perhaps, and show it piercing the grey sky, 
apparently doubled in height by being seen isolated from its 
brother hills. 

In May and early June the view from the Glen House is very 
charming. For then huge patches of snow lie on the upper 



WHITE MOUNTAIN GUIDE. 27 

slopes of tliG range. But in October the spectacle is generally 
more fascinating than in any other season of the year. Es- 
pecially when the traveller can see, as we once saw there, the 
summits, stained with snow, rising over forests dyed in orange, 
brown, and crimson, — and delicate curtains of mist drooping 
from the sky and swaying gently along the line of the crests. 

Stages leave the Glen House, every morning, for the Notch, 
by the way of Jackson, and for North Conway, and Conway. 
The distance to the Notch, as we have said, is thirty-six miles ; 
to North Conway twenty miles ; to Conway twenty-five miles. 
Stages run, also, to the Gorham and the Alpine house, con- 
necting with four trains on the Atlantic & St. Lawrence Road. 
And from each train, up and down, on that road there is stago 
conveyance from Gorham to the Glen. 

Of course the chief object of interest among the guests at 
the Glen House, after faithfully seeing the mountain view, is 
TuE Ascent of Mt. Wasuington. 

More travellers ascend Mt. Washington now from tho Glen 
House and the Alpine House, by the road from the Glen, than 
by any other route. Tho distance from tho base of the moun- 
tain, in front of the Glen House, to the summit is a little less 
than six miles. Four miles of this distance are passed on the 
easy slope of the road designed for a carriage route to the sum- 
mit. The project of such a road was started some four years 
ago. It was supposed that the road would be completed last 
year (1857.) But the enterprise seems of late to be suspended. 
Part of the way, the path has been finished and macadamized. 
It winds upward with a very easy grade — one foot in eight — 
and inclines inward towards tho mountain, so that the rains 
shall not wash heavily across it. And it is laid out with suf- 
ficient width to allow carriages to pass each other. The road, 
if finished according to the plan, would be eight miles in length. 

Only a small portion of the track has been completed so that 
a carriarre could be driven over it. But it has been laid out 



28 WUITE MOUNTAIN GUIDE. 

and partially built for about four miles ; and over this distance, 
the parties who ascend from the Glen and Gorbara ride on 
horseback up a very easy grade. The horses then reach the 
top of what is called " The Ledge." From this point the dis- 
tance is but two miles to the summit of Mt. Washington ; and 
along these two miles the glories, as well as the only difficulties, 
of the ascent arc found. 

The charm of the bridle-path from the Notch to Mt. Wash- 
ington, lies in the passage over the tops of four lower summits 
of the ridge, each one a little higher than the last, and in the 
view thus given, of ravines that sweep off, each way, from the 
horse path to the base of the range. From the Glen the ascent 
is made directly up Mt, Washington itself all the way. 

And during the last two miles a most surprising view is of- 
fered of Adams, Jefferson, and Madison. They sweep up from 
the enormous Gulfs at the right hand of the path, and are vis- 
ible from base to crown. 

There is no view, perhaps, so esciting as this, on the path we 
have just spoken of from the Crawford Notch. Many will think 
that this spectacle, which grows grander and grander as they 
rise, is more inspiring than the prospect from the peak above. 
One learns, in looking at those great forms, the decided differ- 
ence there is in genus between a mountain and a hill. The eye 
is fascinated by the colors of these rugged monarchs — the various 
verdure of their lower forests, their tawny shoulders, the purple 
and grey of their bare ledges, the dim green of their peaks. 
One will notice, also, the charming lines which the torrents have 
torn upon their surfaces. For when we look across a gulf, or 
from a little distance below, upon a steep mountain, we find that 
it is the wrath of the freshets that gives them their finest lines of 
expression and character. And if the day is blessed with clouds 
that drift over the mountains, the eye will find unspeakable 
pleasure in watching the shadows that will droop swiftly from 
cone to base ; and in following the incessant flushes and frolics 
of light and shade, that robe them with over changing charm. 



WHITE MOUNTAIN GUIDE. 29 

But to appreciate the beauty and majesty of these mountains 
that are in view from the Glen House and Gorham path, one 
should see them late on a bright summer afternoon, either in 
ascending or descending Mt. Washington. Then the sun is 
behind them, sinking in the west. Then the richest contrasts 
of color, of light, and of shadow are revealed. The summit an 
shoulders of Mt. Adams glow with rich orange hues. Tho 
slanting light streams between the peaks and burnishes tho 
sides of their ragged pyramids. The *' Gulf of Mexico" gapes 
with more terror as the shadows from its walls, that measure 
more than a thousand feet, fall far into its base. And as the 
sun falls nearer and nearer the horizon, tho sharp shadows of 
Mt. Jefferson, and of the neighboring peaks, stream down upon 
the Glen House valley, and march up the opposite slopes of 
Carter to dislodge its yellow light that melts into purple, and to 
cover thorn with dusk. The noon-time is tho poorest of all 
seasons to be on tho riclge of Mt. AYashington ; for then there 
are no shadows. And it is a pity that tho great majority of 
those who ascend the range, seo the scenery during the most 
unpoetic hours, near midday. 

From the summit of " The Ledge," where tho view of the 
three great mountains we have been speaking of is first gained, 
the path rises over a series of receding plateaus. Each seems 
to be the summit, as one looks from below. It is on account of 
this structure of tho cone of Mt. Washington, that it fails to 
show its real height, until one gets far enough off from it, in tho 
valleys, to escape the effect of foreshortening. 

During the last part of tho ascent, one will see the pile of 
stones that marks the spot where Miss Bourne, of Kennebunk, 
Me., died, near midnight, in September, 1856, and where her 
uncle and cousin kept sad watch till dawn. They started in 
the afternoon, without a guide, to walk to the Summit. Night 
and fog overtook them ; and the young lady perished in the 
chill and darkness among the rocks, but a few rods from the 
3* 



30 WniTE MOUNTAIN GUIDE. 

house they were in search of. Quite near, also, is the shelving 
rock, beneath which the remains of an elderly gentleman from 
Wilmington, Del., were found in July, 1857. He had attempt- 
ed to ascend the mountain alone, one afternoon in August of 
the year before, and must have been overtaken by storm, and 
cold, and darkness, near the summit. His watch, and some 
Bank bills in his vest pocket, were found uninjured ; though most 
of the body, and even part of the skeleton, were gone. A little 
further below, and at the left of the ascending path, the ledge is 
visible where Dr. Denjamin Ball, of Boston, passed two nights 
in the snow and sleet of an October storm, alone, without food 
or covering. lie was rescued when nature was about sinking. 
His feet were frozen, and he could not speak. How his life was 
preserved in such exposure is a marvel. It is equally remark- 
able that, though his feet were severely frozen, they were saved. 

Now let us ascend the last part of the steep cone and stand 
upon the summit. The time used in making the journey from 
the base in the Glen to the peak, is generally about three hours. 
It is often done in two hours and a half, and has been accom- 
plished in less than two hours. What a stupendous view ! A 
horizon of nearly six hundred miles ! At first nothing is 
discerned but mountain sentinels on every hand, over furrowed 
valleys ! We look on the rocky warts and bristly wrinkles of 
the hide of New England ! 

If the day is clear, one can see Monadnock loom as a palo 
"blue film, a hundred miles off on the southwest. Far in the 
east, Katahdin is driven like a wedge into the sky. Westward 
the eye roams almost to the Catskills ; northward into Canada, 
far beyond the sources of the Connecticut ; southward, to the 
mouth of the Saco. In a clear morning, or evening, if there is 
a silvery gleam on the south-eastern horizon, it tells that the 
sun is shining on the sea off Portland. 

Nearer to us, on the west, towers the gloomy ridge of Fran- 
conia, subsidinor towards the Merrimack. That flash now and 



WHITE MOUNTAIN GUIDE. 81 

then, through the opaline southern air is from Winnipisaukee, 
the most exquisite jewel in the Lake-necklace of New England. 
On the near north, the twin-domed Stratford mountains tower. 
Their barren pallor, seen through the uncertain air, counter- 
feits snow. The cloven Pinkham pass lies directly beneath us, 
bending around to lovely North Conway. Over this last village 
we observe the drooping shoulders of Kcarsarge, whose northern 
sides flow from the summit as softly as full folds of drapery fall 
from a ring. Mt. Crawford attracts attention by his singular 
knob-like crest ; and near him, all the winding Bartlett hills 
stand up, guarding the shy beauty of their intervales. The 
long and solid *' Pleasant Mountain" draws the eye, set so 
squarely near the still silver of Lovell's pond. And farther 
Boulh, the dim, level, leopard-spotted land stretches wide to the 
horizon-haze. 

Of course, it is unwise to attempt to describe such a view. 
It is the map of New England printed before us in glowing 
poetry. Those who look upon the sublime diorama for the first 
time, under favorable circumstances, are so oppressed by the 
novelty and grandeur, that they do not appreciate what they 
have seen till some days afterwards. Then it rises in memory, 
and becomes a perpetual treasure for " the mind's eye." No 
one should fail to make the ascent, if health is good. There is 
no danger worth calculating ; and the fatigue that may bo 
incurred is nothing to the spectacle that is oifered. Especially 
are the temptations to ascend greater now to ladies and partial 
invalids, since such admirable accommodation is found in the 
little hotel on the Summit. 

There have been, and are still, we believe, serious disputes 
about the title to the acre or two of chippy rock that make the 
crown of Mt. Washington. There have even been rival hotels 
on its apex, the '* Tip Top House," and the " Summit House." 
Both these Houses have been united now under one manage- 
ment. They were kept in 1857 by Messrs. Hall & Spalding ; 



OZ WHITE MOUNTAIN GUIDE. 

and everything that could be done on such a height, 6,300 feet 
above the sea, for the comfort of guests, was faithfully attended 
to by them. 

When we think what a labor it is to carry all provisions to 
such an elevation, and that even fuel must be taken up from 
the forests far below, we cannot fail to admire the forethought 
and energy that have kept the Summit House so well. Good 
coffee and tea with milk, fresh eggs, new and well-made bread, 
generally fresh meats, as well as excellent ham, and often trout, 
are found on the plentifully provided table. Those who ascend- 
ed Mt. Washington before there was any shelter on the peak 
from gale or shower, or driving scud, or snow-squall, that often 
awaited or overtook them, will know how those arc favored now 
who find good protection, fire, and a hot dinner ready on tho 
top. The charges are certainly not unreasonable, — a dollar for 
each meal, and a dollar for lodging. Sheets of paper and 
envelopes, each with an engraving of the Mountain house and 
Summit, are on sale there. Letters written thus to friends are 
mailed to all parts of the country by the proprietors of the 
hotel. They drop the summer out of their calendar, and make 
their home for days above human fellowship, amid lightning 
and thunder, blinding fogs and sweeping sleet, to offer such 
service to travellers. 

It is frequently the case that persons pass up from the Glen 
to the Summit, and either walk or ride down on the other side 
to the Notch ; and vice versa. In this way a day's time, and 
a stage ride of over thirty miles is saved. A great many, too, 
remain over night on the summit. Unless the weather has long 
been stormy, or very damp, one can sleep in comfort and safety 
in the Summit Kouse. A nio-Ut there in which one can see a 
clear sunset, a moonrise, and a sunrise, is a privilege that we 
will not attempt to describe. One appreciates the height of Mt. 
Washington more by looking up in the night to the mighty 
dome of stars, than by looking off' and below in the day. Or 
if the night is wild and stormy, the feeling one gains there of 



WHITE MOUNTAIN GUIDE. 8B 

the tremendous forces amid which wo are placed on this gloho, 
will more than atone for any uneasiness or discomfort. We 
advise all who can, to remain over night on Mt. Washington. 

But it is time to turn from the hospitality of the Summit 
House, and descend, through the exciting views that lie around 
Mt. Washington, to the Glen House once more, We have not 
spoken of other attractions that belong to its neighborhood. 
One of these is a ride to " The Imp," which we described in 
connection with Gorham. The point, as we have already said, 
from which the face with its quaint expression upon the moun- 
tain top is seen, is nearly two miles from the Glen House, on 
the road that diverges from the road to the Alpine House, and 
which leads towards Randolph. It would be, also, a pleasant 
afternoon walk. 

Let us attend next to 

The Glen Ellis Fall. 

This cataract is one of the interesting features of the wild 
scenery in the neighborhood of the Glen House. Carriages 
run regularly from the hotel to carry visitors. 

The fall is about four miles from the Glen House, near the 
road to North Conway and the Notch. It is very easy of access 
from the point where you leave the wagon. Five minutes walk 
through the forest takes one within hearing of the rich roar that 
announces the nearness of the cataract. A critical ear could 
construct the form and grandeur of the fall from its voice. Its 
bass quality, not broad and massive, but youthful, vigorous and 
intense, and the slight splashiness that boarders and thins its 
baritone, foretell that we are to come upon a narrow cataract, 
leaping from a great height, with concentrated stream, into a 
shallow basin. But the sound does not prepare a strano-er for 
the startling view upon which the forest path suddenly opens. 
From the carriage road, the foot track is nearly level, leading to 
a tree that overhangs a precipice of more than a hundred feet. 
We lean against this tree for support, not without misgivings as 



84 



WHITE MOUNTAIN GUIDE. 



to its roots, and look down upon a huge wall of rock, over wliicli 
the Ellis river, stranding the streams of its various brooks into 
a huge li(|uid cable, whoso constant friction has worn a deep 
groove in the granite, slides at a very sharp angle, for some 
twenty feet, and then leaps, as from the nose of a gigantic 
pitcher, sixty feet more. The public (as well as the cascade,) 





'teyp 






rA.-^ 




^^S 




'""-A* 



View of Glen Ellis Fall. 



s^^^ 



WHITE MOUNTAIN GUIDE. 35 

avo indebted to Mr. Sbeploy, of Portland, for clianging its 
name from " Pitcher Fall," which was first given to it, to the 
more elegant and appropriate title " Glen Ellis Cataract." 

To discover the most romantic and charming combinations in 
mountain scenery, one must explore the larger streams, on their 
way to the open valleys. The Naiads know how to turn their 
course through the most picturesque passes, under the richest 
arches of forest boughs, and down the most bewitching dells. 
This is one of the glorious perquisites of the devoted troutfisher, 
that his profession, (for it is really one of the fine arts) leads 
him along the bye-ways of beauty that are hidden from the 
eyes of ease-loving travellers, and up through winding cascade- 
aisles to many an adytum of forest wildness, or mountain gran- 
deur. Probably some trout-fisher was the discoverer of Glen 
Ellis Fall, which has been known only a few years. The first 
sight of it must have given a most impressive joy to the explorer, 
if he were a man of taste. 

The spot where it pours is more wild, and combines more of 
the elements of loneliness, untameablencss, lawless beauty, and 
strong contrasts of features, than any other spot in the White 
Mountain region. The overhanging tree against which the 
visitor leans to look down at the water-fall, giving him a footing 
that undermines his delight with a sense of insecurity and fear ; 
the steep, mountain wall opposite, more than three thousand 
feet high, and thick set to the top with trees ; the hard granite 
rampart over which the compact white stream slips, and then 
spouts into the basin below, and the smoothly carved groove 
telling of the ages that have been exhausted in that merry rasp- 
ing of the rock by the water-drops ; the loveliness of the basin 
itself, when one goes down to it and contrasts its green, placid 
surface with the leaping crystal column that pours into it from 
eighty feet above, — these, and the cheerful tripping of the 
stream on its way again in search of new adventures, after its 
mad plunge, combine to make a mountain retreat, whose wildness 



36 WHITE jiouNT.aN guide. 

and music Scott would have deliofhtod to cnsbriiio ia his vii'orous 
verse, and which no visitor of Gorham and tlje Glen House 
should leave unvisited. Trenton has not any one scene, or any 
one cascade, so striking. It has always seemed to me, on a 
smaller scale, more' like the scenery at the Natural Bridge in 
Virginia, than any other district of the While Mountains. 

About an hour is required to reach Glen Ellis Fall from the 
Glen House. Visitors need another hour at the spot. Gener- 
ally the visit is too hurried. Twice the time that can be given 
is generally found to be needed. 

"We give next a picture of another waterfall, which is one of 
the most delightful resources of a visit at the Glen House. The 
sketch, however, is very inadequate to the subject. 

*' Crystal Cascade," is gained from an entrance in the 
woods about a mile from the Glen Ellis fall, on the way back to 
the Glen House, from which it is only three miles distant. It 
pours down from heights opposite to those which feed the Ellis 
river. Its descent is about eighty feet. Part of its water comes 
from the dome of Mt. Washington, through Tuckerman's ravine. 
It takes twenty or thirty minutes of forest walking and climbing 
to reach the Crystal Cascade. The true point to see it is not 
the immediate foot of the fall, although most persons go there, 
but a high bank opposite that overhangs the aged granite, and 
has plenty of the softest seats cushioned with moss a foot or 
more in depth. If it is wildness, and the spirit of strong, 
bounding, unruly life that fascinates in the spot we have just 
left, here it is delicate and exquisite beauty. 

At Glen Ellis the whole stream pitches in one concentrated 
tide ; here, every pint of water is spread with charming economy 
to the utmost service. Some seventy feet above, we can see 
the brook pouring in a single stream around a bend. Then the 
rock broadens into a rough stairway, with easy slope, which 
grows wider and wider to the bottom, and down these steps the 
spreading water sheds its white, thin, dancing and broken sheet, 



WUITE MOUXTAIH QUIDE. 



37 



%l%i 



mMc^ 








i^S^^^^^v^^^^'^^-- 



View of Crystal Cascade. 

showing, now and then, through its gauzy texture, the deep green 
mosses clinging to tlie roeks which soften its own fall, and mako 
Its cool music more gentle and luscious to the ear. 

A friend of ours once compared it quite happily, to an in- 
verted liquid plume — tha rill above, where the water is ono 
stream, being the stem, and the widening, fleecy flow its nod- 



38 WHITE MOUNTAIN GUIDE. 

ding, graceful, feathery spray. As to the form of the Cascade, 
nothing can be finer than the simile. But the delicate texture 
and color of the descending rill suggest laces, and frills, and 
foam-embroidery. It is as though fairy milliners had set their 
wits to work to weave a ruffled bosom for the rocky breast of 
Mt. "Washington, out of the snow-flax that falls in Winter around 
his head. 

There is a youthful and masculine energy in the Glen Ellis 
fall. The Crystal Cascade shows rather a feminine, maidenly 
delicacy and grace. There are always two parties among thoso 
who visit these falls, — some contending for the superiority of 
the first, others for the greater charm of the last. If the reader 
visits both, no doubt he will adopt our opinion that neither can 
be spared, and that they are so different as to repel comparison. 
A long forenoon or afternoon should be taken to make the 
excursion to both spots. 

We come now to speak of 

•* Tuckerman's Eavine," 

whose walls are visible from the Glen House. This ravine is a 
tremendous gulf in the southerly side of Mt. Washington. It 
was named in honor of Edward Tuckerman, Esq., who has been 
a faithful explorer of the White ^lountains. He often visited 
the ravine, before the tide of travel turned to the eastern sido 
of the mountains, to complete his knowledge of the Lichens and 
Flora of the region. 

The hard, bare, thin and curling edge of the south- w'estcrn 
wall of this ravine, as seen from the Glen House, is one of the 
most striking mountain lines visible from that fascinating spot. 
The gulf may be reached by clunbing directly up the stream of 
the Crystal Cascade just spoken of. That stream flows through 
the centre of the sloping base of the ravine. 

But the easier way is to follow the carriage road, for about 
two miles, up Mt. Washington ; strike oflf to the left into a 



WHITE MOUNTAIN GUIDE. 39 

forcst-path, cut by direction of Mr. Thompson of the Glen 
House, and cross two and a half miles of forest, that lie 
between the carriage road and " Hermit Lake." 

This little sheet of water, so snugly enibowered in the wilder- 
ness, would attract more attention, were it not for the frowning 
wall of the ravine that looms over it, and draws the eye upwards. 
It lies under the southeast ridge. Emerging from the woods 
hero, we see that the ravine is of horse-shoe shape — the opposite 
outer cliff more than a thousand feet in height, the bottom slop- 
ing upwards towards the backward crescent wall, and the rim 
quite level. Explorers must climb along the centre of the gulf, 
by tho bed of a stream, pausing every minute to gaze at the 
grim ramparts on either hand, and to invent, possibly, some 
new exclamation of amazement and awe. Facing the party, as 
they make their way slowly upward, will be the grand curve of 
tho sheer precipice that lies some way off and up under the 
summit of Mt. Washington. It is symmetrical, seemingly, as 
the wail of the Coliseum. 

The sight of that stupendous amphitheatre of stone when one 
gets near enough to appreciate it, would of itself repay and 
overpay the labor of the climb. It is fitly called the " Moun- 
tain Coliseum." No other word expresses it, and that comes 
spontaneously to the lips. The eye needs some hours of gazing 
and comparative measurement to fit itself for an appreciation of 
its scale and sublimity. 

One can hardly believe, while standing there, that the sheer 
concave sweep of the back wall of the ravine was the work of 
an earthquake throe. It seems as though Titanic Geometry 
and trowels must have come in to perfect a primitive volcanic 
sketch. One might easily fancy it the Stonehenge of a Pre- 
Adamite race, — the unroofed ruins of a temple, reared by 
ancient Anaks long before the birth of man, for whicli the 
dome of Mt. Washington was piled as the western tower. 

There have been land slides and rock avalanches as terrible 
in that ravine as at Disvillc Notch. The teeth of tho frosts 



40 WHITE MOUNTAIN GUIDE. 

have been as pitiless ; the desolation of the cliffs is as complete ; 
but the spirit of the place is not so gloomy as at Dixville. It 
is sublime rather than awful, or dispiriting. At Dixville, all 
is decay, wreck, the hopeless submission of matter in the coil 
of its hungry foes. In Tuckerman's ravine there is a grand 
battle of granite against storm and frost, — a Koman resistance, 
as though it could hold out for ages yet, before the siege of 
Winter, and all the batteries of the air. 

Unless the season is very dry, the back wall of this mountain 
Coliseum will glitter with innumerable veins of water, which 
are called " The Thousand Streams." When one has reached 
the base of this curving precipice it is not a very difficult task 
to climb to the summit of I\It. Washington. Parties have some- 
times done so, passed the night there, and returned to the Glen 
House the next day. Many also have visited the ravine by 
descending into it, with a guide, from the top of Mt. Washing- 
ton. The distance from the summit of the mountain to the 
bottom of the gulf is about a mile. 

A visit to Tuckerman's ravine in August will be the more 
interesting if " The Snow Arch," is formed there. In 1855 
and 185G, this beautiful spectacle was to be seen. The snow 
is blown over from the summit of Mt. Washington by the north- 
west winds, in winter, and is packed in drifts of a hundred feet 
deep, under the walls of *' The Coliseum." The streams of 
early Sj^ring and Summ.er channel the snow "bank, and it grad- 
ually melts from the roof within, till a vast snow cave is formed, 
through which a person may walk. In August, 1855, the snow 
field measured about 300 feet long, 70 in breadth, and 15 in 
depth. The roof of the part that was chanelled was some five 
feet thick, and very solid. A hatchet was necessary to cut it. 
The top of the span was about ten feet high inside. The whole 
roof was wrought into beautiful scallops and chasings by the 
melting and dropping of the snow within. The bank does not 
disappear till the last of August. The dog-day fogs penetrate 



WHITE MOUNTAIN GUIDE. 41 

and dissolve it. Thus we narrowly escape having a glacier 
formed near the top of Mt. Washington. 

Glen House to the Crawford House. 

Having now passed a few days, or, still better, a few weeks 
amidst the wondrous scenery around the Glen House, we leave 
with reluctance this pleasant Hotel, and its hospitable host, and 
continue our journey to the Crawford House, at the Great 
Notch. 

This trip is made in stages, the route lying at first in a 
southerly direction through Pinkham Notch, then westerly along 
the south-eastern flank of the mountains, and finally at the Great 
Notch, passing directly through to the northern side. The dis- 
tance is 34 miles, and the fare $3.00. 

The same point is sometimes reached from the Glen House 
by private coaches along the north-western side of the White 
Hills, and over Cherry Mountain. By this route you lose the 
sublime impression always experienced on approaching the Notch 
from the south, but gain the enchanting view from Cherry 
Mountain. If, however, you intend proceeding from the Craw- 
ford House to Franconia, the Cherry Mountain route must be 
partially retraced, so that more variety is gained by selecting, 
for the present trip, the route through Pinkham Notch. 

The stages start as soon after breakfast as the passengers can 
conveniently be ready. There are generally at least two 
vehicles, a stage-coach, and an open mountain- wagon. If you 
wish to enjoy an unobstructed view of the noble scenery on the 
route, and do not mind a shower, such as often in summer 
comes on very suddenly among these hills, you will not hesitate 
to adopt the latter airy mode of conveyance. The road lies 
directly down the little descent towards the south. On the 
right, the partially completed carriage road to Mt. Washington 
turns off, and crossing the rustic bridge over the Peabody River 
is soon lost among the trees. The forests now close in on each 
side, the open space of Bellow's Clearing, which we have just 
4* 



42 WHITE MOUNTAIN GUIDE. 

left, is no longer visible, and we can catch only occasional 
glimpses through the foliage of the overhanging cliffs of Carter 
Mountain on the left, and of the lofty hills beyond the river on 
the right. AVe are fairly within the portals of Pinkham Notch, 
and the silence and solitude are relieved only by the tinkling, 
and bubbling, and rushing of the Peabody River, as the road 
follows closely its rocky bed. Here and there are quiet pools 
much frequented in the warm season by the lover of trouting. 

About two or three miles from the Glen House, the road 
crosses the river twice in quick succession, and reaches the 
highest point of the Notch. Here the Peabody River, and 
the Ellis issue in nearly parallel courses from the forest on the 
rip;ht, so near to each other that a slight amount of labor would 
turn either stream into the other. As soon as they have passed 
under the road, the Peabody turns abruptly down the ravine to 
the north to unite with the Androscoo-o-in, while the Ellis takes 
an opposite course down the Notch towards the Saco. 

Between the two streams, on the right, is the entrance to 
the Crystal Cascade, marked by roughly engraved letters on the 
bark of a tree. These beautiful falls are distant from the road 
only about a third of a mile, but are approached by an exceed- 
ingly rough path. 

After leaving the entrance to this Cascade we cross the Ellis 
River, and soon pass the Mineral Spring House, an unfinished, 
and uninhabited cottage in the edge of the forest on the right. 
This house, the only shelter for seven miles, was located hero 
on account of the supposed medicinal character of the spring 
near by, but the project has been abandoned, and the building 
seems going to ruin. 

Proceeding a little farther we reach the entrance to Glen 
Ellis Falls on the left. This cascade is nearer the road than 
the other, and is approached by an easy path of plank. 
The Foot of Pinkham Notch. 

Continuing down tho Notch two or three miles, the country 



WUITE MOUNTAIN GUIDE. 48 

opens again, and cleared fields on the intervales of the Ellis 
River take the place of unsubdued forests. Near here a glance 
toward the north-west is rewarded by a fine view of a monster 
boulder, apparently rolling down a south-eastern spur of Mt. 
AVashington. The first house is soon reached, and we seek to 
catch a sight of the inhabitants, whose nearest neighbors on tho 
north are seven miles away. The house is quite large, and is 
considerably visited by artists and others, who delight in tho 
wildness of the surrounding scenery, and the substantial moun- 
tain fare. 

To this vicinity Capt. Joseph Pinkham, and four other hardy 
pioneers, removed in April 1790, from Madbury in the lower 
part of the State. The Pinkham family came up over tho 
snow, which lay five feet deep, and brought all their household 
goods from Conway on a hand-sled. They found their log- 
cabin, which had been erected during the previous autumn, 
almost buried in the snow. One of the sons of the family, Mr. 
Daniel Pinkham, constructed the Notch road, and gave it his 
name. 

Jackson. 

A few miles more through a widening valley brings us to a 
sudden turn, which discloses the white spire of tho church in 
"Jackson City." Wa greet this token of returning civilization 
with something of the enthusiasm which a sailor feels on reach- 
ing land after a long voyage. It belongs to a Free Will 
Baptist Society, founded in this quiet valley as early as 1803. 
You should not omit, near this point, to look back at the dark 
gorges, which open miles away towards Mt. Washington. A 
few steps brings us to a nice little Inn, where the horses are 
changed, and passengers for Conway and Lake Winnipisaukee 
take another coach. Here may almost always be seen a few 
arti.-^ts, and other guests, drawn thither by the delightful scenery, 
and the rural comfort of the hotel. Just at the north-east of 
tho house is a romantic cascade on the Wild Cat Brook, a trib- 



44 WHITE MOUNTAIN GUIDE. 

utary of the Ellis River. While the horses are changing you 
will have time enough to visit these falls, and will be amply 
compensated for the trouble, if tliere is the usual quantity of 
water, leaping from rock to rock. 

From the portico of the Hotel there is gained a fine view of 
the surrounding mountains. Facing the south you see Iron 
Mountain rising to the height of 2,900 feet on the right, and the 
bald peak of Tin Mountain on the left. Soon after leaving 
the Hotel the two noble peaks of Doublehead come into view 
in the northeast. The nearer peak is 3,000 feet high, and the 
farther a hundred feet higher. Jackson has vast mineral re- 
sources, possessing, besides many less important metals, iron, 
copper, and tin. The last was discovered here, before it had 
been found in any other part of the United States. This town 
was first named New Madbury, then Adams, in honor of the 
great statesman, and finally received it present name, when 
Adams and Jackson were competitors for the Presidency, all 
its voters but one being in favor of the latter. 
GooDRicn Falls. 

A mile below Jackson, just before crossing the new trestle 
bridge over the Ellis River, you can obtain a fine view of 
Goodrich Falls. Leaving the road a little above the bridge, 
and proceeding a few rods to the right, you come to an old 
bridge in front of the cataract. This is the largest perpendicu- 
lar fall to be seen among the mountains, and after heavy rains 
appears quite grand. At any time the view down the river 
between the steep wooded banks is exceedingly picturesque. 
A short scramble on the opposite side of the river will be amply 
rewarded by the nearer view of the Falls, which is thereby 
gained, The drivers on all the mountain routes are very kind 
and accommodating, and will readily allow time for the ramble. 
Indeed, we may here say, that, at all times, the tourist will 
find them ready to stay as long as he may desire to obtain views 
of the fine scQnery in any part of the route. In this vicinity 



wiiitl: mountain guide. 



45 



the traveller first notices that pleasant clement of tlie mountain 
scenery, the little girls standing by the road side with tiny birch 
baskets filled with berries for sale. Buy some raspberries, or 
some blueberries, and you will make many a little heart glad, 
as well as secure the neat baskets as souvenirs of your trip. 
Valley of tiie Saco. 

Soon after leaving Goodrich Falls, wo reach the Saco valley, 
and crossing the Ellis llivcr, the Ivocky Branch, and the Saco 
in quick succession, turn abruptly towards the west. For the 
remainder of the distance to the Crawford House, we arc pass- 
ing over the same road, as those who come up from Centre 
Harbor, and Conway. 

At the time of the Willey slide the Rocky Branch, which 
here joins the Saco, rose so rapidly, as to surround a log cabin 
on its banks, before the inmates could make their escape. 
They soon found themselves floating down the swollen stream, 
but were at last landed in safety on the summit of a little hill. 

As we proceed up the Saco, tho beautiful level intervals, on 
each side of the stream, are worthy of our attention, as well as 
the hills, which rise boldly on each side at no great distance 
from the river. Before us, a little to the left, are the three 
peaks of Tremont Mountain, about 3,500 feet in height, and 
directly behind for a long distance we can see the noble pyra- 
midal form of Kearsarge, sometimes called Pequawket. On 
its summit, at the height of 3,400 feet, is distinctly seen the 
large hotel, erected some years ago for the accommodation of 
visitors. It is now unfortunately uninhabited, and almost in 
ruins. The solitariness of Kearsarge gives it a lonely dignity 
scarcely equalled by any other mountain in the region. In this 
vicinity is seen an old brown house on the left hand of the road, 
bearing the startling announcement that a bear, a rattlesnake, 
and a hedgehog can be seen " hear." 

The part of the Saco Valley, through which we are now pass- 
ing, forms the town of Bartlctt. It is nearly coincident with a 



46 WHITE MOUNTAi:? GUIDE. 

tract of land granted to Capt. William Stark and Vero Royco, 
as a reward for services performed in Canada during the French 
and Indian War, and was settled about 1770. There is no 
compact village in the town, but the houses are scattered at con- 
Biderable intervals along the valley. At one of these, which 
looks like a farmhouse, but is also a tavern, you will stop for 
dinner, and will not find the well-spread table unwelcome after 
your long ride, nor esteem fifty cents, the ordinary charge, an 
exorbitant price. It is customary for every guest to register his 
name in the record-book in the hotel parlor, and as this is the 
great high road to the mountains, you will be interested in ob- 
serving the names of many friends, who have preceded you on 
this journey. 

After proceeding a short distance from the half-way house, 
which we have just left, we pass a high rock close to the road on 
the left hand, called 

Sawyer's Eock, 
and famous for its association with the discovery of the Great 
Notch. The story is narrated by Mr. Willey in his White 
Mountain Incidents, a book which should be in the hand of 
every traveller to this region. In early periods the land on the 
north side of the mountains was almost valueless on account of 
the long cu-cuit, which must be made to reach it. It is supposed 
that the Indians had been acquainted with the pass, now called 
the Notch, and had taken their prisoners through it to Canada, 
but it was still unknown to the white inhabitants until one day 
about 1771, a solitary hunter, named Nash, happened to climb a 
tree on Cherry Mountain to look for game. Casting his eye 
towards the south-east he thought he perceived an opening 
through the mountains. Making his way in that direction, ho 
arrived at last at the narrow opening called the Gate of the 
Notch, and passing through the gorge he proceeded to Ports- 
mouth, and announced the long wished-for discovery to George 
Wentworth. Hunters had before scaled the mountains on foot, 



WUITE MOUNTAIN GUIDE. 47 

SO the Governor determined to tost the feasibility of the pass, by 
promising Nash a large tract of land on the north side of the 
mountains, since known as Nash and Sawyer's Location, if ho 
would get a horse through and bring him to Portsmouth. This 
was by no means an easy task, but by the aid of Sawyer, a fel- 
low hunter, ho succeeded in bringing the horse through, some- 
times drawing him up high precipices with ropes, and then 
letting him down on the other side. AVhen they let him down 
the last rock on the southern side. Sawyer drained the rum from 
his bottle, and dashing it on the rock exclaimed — ** This shall 
hereafter be called Sawyer's Rock," and so it is. 

A little beyond this point the road turns to the north, as it 
follows the great bend of the Saco round Hart's Ledge on tho 
opposite side of the valley, and soon crosses a small stream 
called Sawyer's River. At the source of this brook, three or 
four miles to tho west is Bemis Pond, a small sheet of water, 
often resorted to for trouting by the guests of the Mt. Crawford 
House. 

Nancy's Brook and Bridge. 

The forests and tho mountains now begin to close in, as if to 
prepare the traveller for the contracted atmosphere of the Notch 
and a little brook comes leaping down the mountain side with a 
winning air of wild freedom. This is Nancy's Brook, and the 
rustic structure thereon across it is Nancy's Bridge. It was 
near this spot that a disconsolate maiden, whose name is hero 
preserved, perished with fatigue and cold, when she had walked 
all the way from Jefferson through the snow and darkness in 
pursuit of her recreant lover. She was found stiff and cold, 
sitting at the foot of a tree near the bank of this book. The 
incident has already afforded material for the pen of the novel- 
ist, and the skill of the pencil has been repeatedly spent in 
portraying the picturesque beauty of Nancy's Bridge, and its 
setting of wild rocks, and trees, and bubbling cascades. 

A half a mile beyond this bridge, wo come to the Mt. Craw- 



48 WHITE MOUNTAIN GtlLB. 

FORD House. This hotel has been in past years a favorite re- 
sort for the sportsman, and the quiet loving traveller, and onco 
it was one of the principal public houses of the region, but 
during last summer it was closed. The situation is a delightful 
one, and it is hoped the house will again open its doors to visi- 
tors. There is a path from this point to Mt. Washington, styled 
the Davis Road, which is longer than the other, but inferior to 
none in romantic interest. We are now in the midst of Hart's 
Location, which borders the Notch on the southern side, whilo 
Nash and Sawyer's approaches it on the north. 

On this very spot old Abel Crawford, styled the " Patriarch 
of the Mountains," lived and reared his family. At the age of 
seventy-five he made the first ascent ever made to Mt. Wash- 
ino-ton on horse-back. When he was eighty he was so robust as to 
think nothing of walking five miles before breakfast to his son'a 
house at the Gate of the Notch. His son, Ethen Allen Craw- 
ford, called tho " Giant of the Hills," cut the first bridle-path 
to Mt. Washington in 1821. He resided at that time near tho 
Giant's Grave on the north side of tho Notch, and the path was 
nearly, if not quite, coincident with the one now called •* Fa- 
byan's Path." All the paths on the western side of the moun- 
tains were cut by the Crawfords. Ethen was a great hunter, 
and used to delight his guests with quaintly related stories of 
many a daring adventure. Both he and his father acted as 
guides to the travellers, who in their time visited the mountains. 
At the time of the Willcy Slide, the Saco rose so rapidly and 
so high, as to flood the lower story of Mr. Crawford's house, 
before the family could escape. He himself was away from 
home, but the rest retired to tho upper story, and during tho 
raging tempest, Mrs. Crawford stood at the north window, 
clearing away with a pole, the logs, and other drift, which 
pressed with so much force against the house, as to threaten it 
with instant destruction every moment. This intrepid woman 
was the mother of eight sons. 



wuite mountain guide. 4& 

The Chapel of the Hills. 

In the vicinity is a little church, built by the assistance of a 
benevolent lady of Boston, and consecrated January 1854. 
The donor was actuated to this good work by observing, in one 
of the Boston newspapers, a letter from a visitor to this region, 
setting forth its religious destitution. She immediately offered 
to contribute two hundred dollars towards the erection of a 
chapel far up among the hills, if the inhabitants of Bartletfc 
would raise the balance. As a result of these efforts, we see 
this comfortable building, the only church for miles around. 
Like some of the little chapels in Westminster Abbey, it seems 
to stand in the midst of a grander and loftier temple, reared by 
the hand of Nature, and consecrated long ago by the prayers 
and the songs of the Red Man. 

The Approach to the Notch. 

As we proceed up the Saco, Mt. Crawford, and the Giant's 
Stairs, are distinctly visible beyond the river on the right. The 
southern peak, Mt. Crawford, is 3,200 feet high, and the north, 
ern is 3,500. Between them is Mt. Besolution. Over these 
eminences passes the Davis Road to Mt. Washington. After 
crossing the Saco twice, the road now turns a little towards the 
northwest. This road was the tenth turnpike constructed in 
New Hampshire, and was incorporated in 1803. It extends 
through the Notch, and through Nash and Sawyer's Location 
twenty miles, and cost forty thousand dollars. On account of 
the immense travel over it, it nevertheless paid well. Before it 
was laid out, the common county road crossed the Saco thirty- 
two times, in making its way up the valley. Near here we pass 
through a forest of gigantic white birches, and catch an oc- 
casional view of a lofty overhanging mountain directly in front. 

At last the Great Notch bursts upon our view in all its sub- 
lime majesty, and, looking up the gorge, we behold the frown- 
ing Webster on the right, the scarred sides of the fatal Willey 
6 



50 WHITE MOUNTAIN GUIDE. 

on the left, and the rounded summit of Mt. Willard just ap- 
pearing far away in the middle of the picture. This view of 
Mt. Webster from the end, is perhaps the most impressive way, 
in which it can be seen. We cannot help wondering if human 
foot has over dared to tread its apparently inaccessible heights, 
or to explore its mysterious recesses. Well was it named for 
him, whose overhanging, thoughtful brow, these majestic cliffs 
so much resemble. 

Descending rapidly into the Notch the road passes over the 
debris of the first slide, now covered with a considerable growth 
of white birches. Boulders are scattered around in wild con- 
fusion, and the atmosphere of death and destruction seems still 
to linger about the place. A few rods brings us to the second 
slide, and we catch the first sight of 

The Willey House. 

This famous edifice, situated on the left hand of the road di- 
rectly under Willey Mountain, was the Bcene of the great dis- 
aster, which caused the loss of tho whole Willey family. Only 
the northern and smaller portion of tho present building was 
standing at that time, the southern part having been added in 
later years to accommoda^ guests, who sometimes stop here. 
The original building was erected by a Mr. Hill for a public 
house, not far from 1820. Previous to this period there was 
no habitation between the Old Crawford House, and the Rose- 
brooks', a distance of 13 miles. Its hospitable roof was often 
greeted with gratitude by many a traveller, who would perhaps 
otherwise have perished in the awful snow-drifts, so common in 
the Notch during winter. After occupying the house for a few 
years, Mr. Hill left it, and it stood empty for several months. 
At last, in the Autumn of 1825, Mr. Willey moved in with his 
family, and passed the ensuing winter very comfortably. In 
the June following, however, there was a slide from the moun- 
tain, which terrified them considerably, but did them no perma- 
nent injury. It proved to be a warning of the great disaster, 



52 WHITE FOUNTAIN GUIDE. 

which was to follow. On the night of Aug. 28, 1826, a most 
violent tempest raged about the Notch, and a vast amount of 
soil, and of rocks on Willey Mountain was precipitated into the 
valley below, overwhelming the whole family, consisting of Mr. 
Willey, his wife, five children, and two hired men. The house 
itself was not injured, but it is supposed that the inmates, rush- 
ing out in their terror, were overtaken by the slide a little lower 
down by the Saco. A pile of stones alone marks the place 
where the bodies of most of them were found. The father, 
mother, and two children, rest in the burial place of the family^ 
near the boundary of Bartlett, and Conway. The house was 
deserted for a year after this event, but at last a family named 
Pendexter moved in, and it has been generally occupied since 
that period. Of late years it has become important as a show- 
place, twelve and a half cents being charged for shewing each 
person through the house. There is, however, nothing within 
the ruinous edifice of sufficient interest to warrant even this 
trifling expenditure. In the rear is seen the great rock, once 
thii'ty feet high, which separated the slide, and thus saved the 
house. The top of it is now almost level with the ground 
around it, and a pole thirty feet high has been erected close by. 
to assist the inexperienced mind in forming a correct conception 
of the former height of the rock. So kindly is sight-seeing 
here made easy for beginners. From the top of the rock, a 
beautiful path, quite the most attractive element of the scene, 
winds among the birches on the slide, far up the mountain. In 
front of the house is still standing the ruin of the stable, which 
was half demolished by the avalanche. Before re-mounting the 
coach you should not fail to drink some of the excellent water, 
to be found at the upper end of the piazza. It is sometimes 
wondered that any one dares to inhabit so perilous a spot as 
this, but it must not be forgotten that the side of Willey is now 
so bare, that there seems nothing more to come down but the 
solid rock of the mountain. On the opposite side of the river, 



WHITE MOUNTAIN GUIDE. 53 

however, Mt. Webster rises apparently perpendicular to the 
height of two thousand feet above the valley, and almost 
threatens to overwhelm it. In every tempest the inhabitants of 
the Willey House hear the enormous rocks crashing down its 
precipitous sides, with the sound of thunder, while lightnings 
play about its awful brow. But there is in reality no danger. 

The Head op the Notch. 

After leaving the Willey House the road winds up the 
narrow ravine for about three miles, ever and anon crossing the 
rushing stream, and bending around projecting rocks. This 
part of the trip is generally performed at the close of the day, 
when the lengthened shadows add a gloomy grandeur to the 
scene. Shut in by dismal walls 2,000 feet high, our hearts 
gink within us, with a feeling of utter insignificance. The steep 
sides of Willey Mountain are diversified by tier above tier of 
wandlike white birches, the stems being peculiarly apparent on 
account of the steepness of the mountain. At the top of this 
mountain on a sort of plateau, is a little lake called Ethan's 
pond. Near as this is to the Saco, it yet finds its outlet towards 
the southwest into the Pemigewasset, and so into the Merrimack. 
On each side far above our heads little torrents come pouring 
down over the rocks in cascades, which will be examined more 
at our leisure, in excursions from the Crawford House. As we 
proceed, the *• Old Maid of the Mountain,'' a great stone face 
just above the road on the right hand side, and an overhanging 
rock on the same side, called the " Devil's Pulpit," come into 
view. On the face of this, with imagination, can be seen 
another profile, called ** The Infant," and is said to have been 
discovered by Ex-Gov. Baker, now of Iowa. In front, far up 
on Mt. Willard, which has now assumed gigantic proportions, 
appears the black mouth of the "Devil's Den." Just before 
arriving at the Gate, the road turns a little to the right with a 
bend in the Notch itself, and we suddenly emerge from the 



54 WHITE MOUNTAIN GUIDE. 

wondrous gorge, between two chaotic piles of rocks, and up- 
rooted trees, only twenty-three feet apart. 

The Crawford House is now in sight, and a short ride over a 
level road brings us to the piazza. We must not be surprised 
at .the number of spectators, who come to see our debarkment, 
for the arrival of the evening coaches, is one of the most excit- 
ing events of the day here. 



The Crawford House and Vicinity. 
The Crawford House is a large and new edifice, very eommo- 
dious and agreeable for a summer hotel. There are pleasant 
piazzas on the outside, and five halls, much used in the evening 
for promenading, run the entire length of the house within. 
The parlor is large and well furnished, the dining-room ample 
in its proportions, and its table always supplied with the delica- 
cies of the metropolitan markets, as well as such substantial 
articles of mountain production, as delicious berries, and the 
richest milk and cream. The Office is situated in the central 
part of the house, and generally presents as busy a scene as 
the great square in a city. Hither every one comes to talk 
over his plans, and to make arrangements for various excursions, 
or for continuing his journey to other points of interest. You 
should be careful, as soon as you arrive, to book your name at 



WniTE MOUNTAIN GUIDE. 55 

this place for a horse to Mt. Washington, if you intend to 
make the ascent within a few days, as often all the ponies are 
engaged for a day or two beforehand. The price of a horse to 
the summit and back with guides for the party is $3. You 
should also book your name a day or two in advance, if you 
intend to secure a seat in any of the stages which leave this 
house, for it sometimes happens that every seat is engaged, if 
you wait till the time for starting. Here also is the Post Office 
of this wild region. Portraits of two of the Crawfords, patri- 
archs of these mountains, adorn the wall. The lodging rooms 
of the house are well furnished, and pleasant, especially those, 
which have windows towards the Notch. Connected with the 
hotel are a bowling-alley for rainy-day and evening amusement, 
and extensive stables, furnished with a large number of horses, 
to be used either under the saddle or in carriages, for the 
delightful rides about this vicinity. Last summer two tame 
bears, in the edge of the forest at the southwest of the house 
afforded the guests much amusement. This excellent establish- 
ment is kept by Mr. J. L. Gibb, with the assistance of his 
gentlemanly clerk, Mr. W. II. Witt. The price of board here, 
as at all the first class houses among the mountains, is S2.50 
per day. 

The Plateau. 

We are now in the midst of a little plateau, about 2,000 feet 
above the sea. It is the highest point of the valley, and the 
water flows from it in both directions, the spring near the house 
discharging its contents down through the Notch into the Saco, 
and that at the stables emptying itself into a tributary of the 
Ammonoosuc, and reaching the sea through the Connecticut. 
In front of the house there is a beautiful fountain, and farther 
on a tiny lake, which forms the head water of the Saco. Down 
near the Gate of the Notch on the left hand is the ruins of the 
old Notch House. This was erected by Ethan Allen Crawford 
and his father, and kept for a public house by Thomas J. Craw 



56 WHITE MOUNTAIN GUIDE. 

ford, a brother of Ethan. Many a thrilling tale is narrated of 
the adventures of early guests at this house, who attempted to 
ascend the mountains under the guidance of the Crawfords, or 
sometimes even without guides. The appearance of the Notch 
House is familiar to almost every one, from its having been 
pictured so often in Geographies and other books. It was the 
largest house of the region for a long time after it was built, 
and had the upper story project over the arch-topped sheds 
below in a peculiar manner. After the Crawford House was 
erected, the building was used for lodging the supernumeraries, 
who could not find quarters in the large hotel. A year or two 
ago the time-honored structure was unfortunately burned. 
About half way down the road to the Gate, on the right hand, 
is a guide-board pointing out the path to 

Mt. Willard, and the Devil's Den. 
This mountain is easily ascended in carriages to the very 
summit, where the view down the Notch fully repays all the 
trouble of the ascent. The height above the Crawford House is 
but little more than 2,000 feet. Carriages are afforded for the 
excursion at a reasonable rate, whenever a party desires to 
make it. Near the top of the mountain on the southern side 
is the remarkable cavern, called the ** Devil's Den," whose 
black mouth was distinctly seen in coming up the Notch. This 
was explored in August, 1856, by Dr. Benjamin Ball, of Bos- 
ton, Mass. There were rumors current previous to his explora- 
tion that it extended far into the mountains and that by another 
opening bears sought its recesses to devour their prey. It was 
said to have been explored by one of the Crawfords who discov- 
ered large quantities of bones, xill this must have been a 
myth. Dr. Ball was let down by ropes. He carried candles 
and a knife to defend himself from wild animals. The " Den" 
however, proved to be only about twenty feet wide, fifteen feet 
high, and twenty feet deep. It is so cold and damp that not 
even the birds take refuge there. The only trophies of his 
exploration were two hawk's feathers. 



WHITE MOUNTAIN OUIDE. 67 

The excursion to the top of Mt. Willard, and the Devil's 
Den, forms one of the pleasantest features of the entertainment 
afforded in the vicinity of the Crawford House. 

Another favorite ride or walk, is through the Gate of the 
Notch, about three-fourths of a mile, to the 
Silver Cascade. 

The stream which forms it, when first seen far up on the 
mountains, is about two miles from the road, and falls from that 
point not far from eight hundred feet, over perpendicular ciiflfs 
before reaching the Saco. By leaving the road at the bridge, 
you can penetrate to the foot of the fall, where* the water rests 
at last in a quiet basin. If accustomed to climbing, you may 
pursue the excursion farther, and gain a closer acquaintance 
with the wild and beautiful cascade. 

The Flume is still farther down the Notch, and is well 
worthy of a visit. The fall here is between two and three 
hundred feet. These cascades will appear to particular advan- 
tage, if you are fortunate enough to walk down into the Notch, 
on a moonlight evening. Carriages also, often leave the Craw- 
ford House on other excursions, such as to the Willoy House, 
and to Ammonoosuc Falls, which will be described below. 

Gibb's Falls. There is near the Crawford House a series 
of cascades which have been but recently discovered and are 
comparatively unknown, but which are well worthy of the 
attention of the tourist. By striking into the woods near the 
stables of the Crawford House and following the aqueduct 
which supplies the hotel with water, the traveller soon reaches a 
brook which presents a succession of falls that in romantic love- 
liness are inferior to none in the White orFranconia mountains. 
To the most striking of these the name of the gentlemanly and 
accommodating landlord of the Crawford House has been given. 
Gibb's Falls is about a quarter of a mile from the point at 
which the aqueduct issues from the brook and is easily access! - 



58 WHITE MOUNTAIN aUIDE. 

ble in a balf hour's walk from tho hotel. The water at this 
point makes an abrupt descent of thirty or forty feet in two 
distinct sheets which are separated by a projecting cliff draped 
in a scanty verdure of lichens and mosses and crowned by a 
single monster pine. The contrast between the emerald green- 
Dess of the projecting islet and the foaming torrents which 
encompass it on either hand is picturesque in the extreme and 
these hitherto nameless falls are well worthy the attention of tho 
artist and the lover of nature. But the greatest feat to be per- 
formed during your stay at this hotel, and that for which the 
others are only preparative, is the ascent of Mt. Washington. 

Ascent of Mt. "Washington from the Crawford House. 

During the height of the season the excursion is made every 
day, when the weather will allow, and generally occupies about 
ten hours. It can be made, however, in a somewhat shorter 
time if necessary. The distance to the Summit is, according to 
the guide-board at the entrance to the path, only seven miles, 
but, if you have a pleasant day, you will be by no means sorry 
to find it 711726, which is commonly supposed to be nearer the 
truth. The entire distance is accomplished on the backs of the 
most sure-footed Canadian ponies, with the attendance of two 
or three experienced mountain-guides, who will be always at 
hand to set a loose shoe on your horse, or to mend a failing 
girth. If you do not like so long a ride on horseback, you can 
be carried round in a carriage by a longer route over Fabyan's 
Path to the foot of Mt. Washington, and can then take the 
ponies for the last three or four miles.* By this course however 
you lose all the beautiful views from the four mountains passed 
over on the other path. These are the most satisfactory to be 
obtained, when, as is often the case, the summit of Mt. Wash- 
ington is clothed in mist. Sometimes the ascent is made on 
foot, but on account of the unparalleled roughness and steepness 



* See Page 68. 



WHITE MOUNTAIN GUIDE. 59 

of tbcse mountain paths, this method is to most persons too 
wearisome for enjoyment, unless they spend a long time on the 
ascent and pass the night on the mountain. A flask of brandy 
is often considered indispensable for pedestrians, as persons often 
faint from fatigue. Whatever path or method you select, it i s 
never advisable to attempt the ascent, for the first time, without 
a guide. Many accidents and inconveniences arise every year 
from the neglect of this precaution. Often you pass from the 
brightest sunshine below into impenetrable mists upon the 
summits of the mountains. 

The clothing for this excursion should be of the commonest 
description at your command, but must be as warm as any 
required for winter wear. The temperature below cannot be 
taken as a criterion of that at the height of four thousand feet 
or more, where it is almost without cessation severely cold. 
Thick woolen mountain-jackets can be obtained at the hotel, 
but you will be more independent if you have garments of your 
own suitable for the purpose. Sacks and jackets are generally 
worn, even by the ladies, rather than shawls or cloaks, on 
account of their greater conveniences in the strong winds, which 
blow incessantly across the tops of the mountains. Close caps 
or hats secured very firmly on the head by strings are indispen- 
sable for the same reason. Half the pleasure of the excursion 
is often lost on account of the annoyance arising from a loose 
hat, continually blowing off, or from a troublesome shawl or 
cloak incessantly flapping in the wind, and threatening to burst 
every fastening. The ponies are brought to the door immedi- 
ately after breakfast, and when the weather is promising, the 
party does not generally consist of less than twenty-five. The 
greater part of the guests at the hotel commonly come down to 
the piazza at the north-eastern end of the house to see these 
strange looking cavaliers, in all their grotesque c ostumes, set 
out for the mountains. The path passes directly into the forest 
on the east. 



tk) tuite mountain guide. 

General View ov this Range. 

The first mountain which we ascend on this path is Mt. Clin- 
ton. It belongs to the great range, which extends from the 
Notch north-easterly to Mt. Madison, a distance of fourteen 
miles. The whole mountain region of New Hampshire is about 
forty miles square, but the name, " White Mountains," is 
sometimes applied, for the sake of distinction, only to this par- 
ticular group of which Mt. Washington is the culminating point. 
The following list gives the name and height of each mountain 
of the range, in its order, commencing at the Notch : 

Mt Webster, - 4,000 ft. Mt. AYashington, 6,285 ft. 



Mt. Jackson, - 


-4,100 - 


Mt. 


Clay, - - 


5,400 " 


Mt. Clinton, 


- 4,200 '' 


Mt. 


Adams, - 


5,700 " 


Mt. Pleasant, 


-4,800 " 


Mt. 


Jefferson, • 


■ 5,800 " 


Mt. Franklin, 


- 4,900 " 


Mt. 


Madison, - 


5,400 '' 


Mt. Monroe, - 


- 5,400 " 









The last three stand in the order of the Presidents for whom 
they were named. 

One of the Indian names of these mountains was ** Agioco- 
chook," which signifies, "the place of the Spirit of the Great 
Forest," or, according to Judge Potter, ** the place of the Storm 
Spirit," and another *' Waumbekketmeihna," alluding to the 
whiteness of the mountains. The distinctive title of " White" 
has always been applied to them on account of their peaks 
being white with snow during ten months of the year. Even 
in July and August the bare rocks have a greyish cast, when 
Been from a distance, which almost entitles them to the name of 
white. These noble hills were first visited in 1632, by a man 
named Darby Field. 

Ascent of Clinton. 

At a few rods distance from the Crawford House is the foot 
of Clinton, which we continue to ascend for two or three miles, 
until at its summit we are more than two thousand feet above 



WHITE MOUNTAIN GUIDE. 61 

the point of starting, and more than four thousand above the 
sea. The path lies all the way through a wild forest, and is so 
vSteep and winding that wo often see the more advanced of the 
party through the trees almost directly above our heads. Now 
and then we pass a long piece of corduroy made of logs laid 
closely together across the way, and forming a hard, but quite 
rough path. At some points are cool springs of water issuing 
from the sides of the path, where the ponies are accustomed to 
rest for a moment, and quench their thirst. Occasionally the 
way lies through a wet gulley three or four feet deep, which has 
the appearance of being the bed of a small mountain stream, 
and after a rain spatters our garments with a plentiful quantity 
of mud. It is most interesting on this ascent to watch the ever 
changing character of the trees and shrubs in their transition 
from beech, and yellow birch, and sugar maple, and mountain 
ash, and aspen poplar, and striped maple below, to white pine, 
and hemlock, and white birch, and spruce, and balsam fir hung 
with festoons of hair-like moss high up, every sort giving way 
near the top to a kind of dwarf fir often so intertangled, that it 
is possible to walk over the tops, as over moss. Just before 
reaching the summit of Clinton, we pass through a region of 
dead trees, which are supposed to have been killed by the in- 
tense cold of 1812, and the seasons, which followed until 1816, 
when, it is believed, they remained frozen throughout the year, 
even in summer. Their trunks and branches have been 
bleached by the rains, and the winds, and they stand like weird 
giants stretching out their ghost-like arms to guard the approach 
to the enchanted regions above. At the height of 4,000 feet 
we emerge from the forest, and find above nothing but scat- 
tered firs, hiding here and there in the crevices of the rocks. 
View from Clinton. 
The path lies a little to the north of the summit of Mt. Clin- 
ton, and as we wind around it over the bare rocks, the first 
Doble mountain view bursts upon our sight. Almost directly 
6 



62 WUITE MOUNTAIN GUIDE. 

before us, towards the east, is the conical summit of Kearsarge, 
and apparently near it some Utile silver lakes with a blue set- 
ting of many mountains, and behind us we can discern Willard, 
and the other mountains around the Notch, mottled here and 
there with the shadows of passing clouds. 

As we begin to descend to the narrow ridge, which joins this 
mountain to the next, we gain a view of the nearer objects 
beneath us. On the right, at a depth of two thousand feet, is 
a vast forest through which winds the Mt. Washington River, 
and beyond is a long range of giant hills, which, like these we 
are on, seem marching in solemn procession towards the great 
central shrine. On the left at a similar depth the Ammonoosuc 
is seen threading the forest, and at last finding its way to the 
open country in the distance. The first experience of real 
mountain travel is gained as we slide down the rocks, and wind 
along the bleak ridge, which connects Mt. Clinton with 
Mt. Pleasant. 

The path generally pursued passes around the southern side 
of this mountain several hundred feet below its summit, although 
there is one directly over, which the ponies by no means fancy 
so that it is impossible to make them take it. As we pass 
along the narrow path, we come to a delightful spring, where 
we can, if we choose, drink from a glass kept there for the pur- 
pose. It is remarkable that both men and horses always drink 
more upon the mountains than they do below, perhaps on ac- 
count of the increased rapidity of evaporation. In the vicinity 
of this spring, as at other sheltered sunny spots along the path, 
exquisite little spring flowers, such as anemones, and bluebells, 
are found just opening in August. The season here resembles 
the Arctic summer, the snow not disappearing till July, and 
coming again early in September. During two months vegeta- 
tion comes on with wonderful speed, and the whole cycle of 
growth and fructification is completed. You must not allow 
your pony to turn out of the beaten path to crop the tender 



WHITE MOUNTAIN GUIDD. DO 

grass, as he desires, for often serious accidents are the result of 
such yielding. Here, if he should lose his foot-hold you would 
be precipitated a great distance down the side of the mountain. 
Mt. Pleasant has a peculiarly rounded top, and presents a 
beautiful appearance at a distance, whence probably its some- 
what incongruous name, compared with those of all the others 
of the patriot groKp. On the northern side are immense slides, 
which are supposed to have occurred, like most of those among 
the mountains, in the memorable storm of 1826. After pass- 
ing around Mt. Pleasant we come to a more extended sort of 
plain lying at the foot of 

Mt. Franklin. 

This is a very irregular flattened peak about a hundred feet 
higher than the last, and the arduous ascent to its summit is an 
excellent preparation for the ascent of Mt. "Washington, by 
whicli alone it is surpassed in difficulty. It is almost fearful to 
look up at the more advanced of our party winding along the 
lofty crags far above our heads, but we soon climb the rocks in 
safety and look down in turn upon those below us. The path 
passes a short distance to the northwest of the summit, but 
there is no danger in turning out a little way to the right, and 
attaining the highest point. The view thence towards the south- 
cast is extremely grand. Far to the south appear the four 
beautiful peaks of Chocorua, the one to the right being higher 
and more conical than the rest. Thousands of feet below us 
stretches the interminable forest, like a carpeting of rich dark 
grass. The mountain on the eastern side is almost perpendicu- 
lar, and as we leave it behind we can see the long scar left by 
a slide, which occurred one stormy night last summer. 
Mt. Monroe. 

We are now approaching the two majestic peaks of Mt. 
Monroe, which is inferior to Mt. Washington in height rather 
than in symmetrical beauty. We pass around the south-eastern 
side, several hundred feet below the summit, over what we are 



64 WHITE MOUNTAIN GUIDE. 

now prepared to consider an easy path. Far down to the right 
is the frightful abyss, known as "Oake's Gulf." The other 
side of this ravine is formed by the same range of mountains, 
which farther back we observed across the vfide valley ap- 
proaching the central cluster. As wo gaze down into it? dizzy 
depths, and see huge rocks scattered in confusion on the bottom, 
and perpendicular craggy precipices forming the sides, we can- 
not help being impressed with a feeling of awe. Sometimes 
clouds are entrapped in this fathomless gulf, and whirl round 
and round in vain attempts to escape. On the northern side of 
Mt. Washington is a similar ravine called the " Great Gulf.'* 

Approach to Mt. Washington. 

Winding around Monroe, we gain our first view of Mt. 
Washington towering nearly fifteen hundred feet above us. It 
appears to consist of an irregular pyramidal pile of shattered 
brown stones, standing as steep as they can, without rolling 
down. Too often this long-expected view is lost on account of 
the almost perpetual mists which surround the summit. Before 
reaching the foot of the cone, we must pass over an extended 
plateau, which is at first quite smooth, and allows the horse to 
trot for a short distance. Nearer the mountain, however, it is 
scattered with innumerable boulders, which appear to have been 
deposited here at the same time that the pyramid of similar stones 
before us was thrown up. The path winds among these rocks, 
and is occasionally pointed out by small heaps of stones piled up 
for that purpose many years ago. This plain extends a long 
way to the right, and is nearly a mile above the sea. Little 
patches of coarse grass and small ponds are found here and 
there upon it. In the western part is a beautiful sheet of water 
called the " Lake of the Clouds," from which the Ammoncosuc 
issues. Leaving the path, and passing along the plain toward 
the cast, we should come to the most wonderful of all the gorges 
in this region, — Tuckerman's Ravine. 



J 



white mountain guide. 65 

Ascent of the last Peak. 

The ascent of the cone of Mt. Washington is made, at least, 
by parties from the Crawford House, on the southwestern side, 
where the rocks appear to start almost perpendicular, although 
in reality less steep than on the southern side. The path ap- 
pears to have been formed by rolling the great blocks and slabs 
of stone on each side, leaving a partially clear way between. 
Up this we wind slowly to the very summit. The rocks are of 
the most uninteresting character, consisting principally of a dull 
brown mica-slate. During the first part of the way, a great 
abundance of a delicate Alpine plant, with small white flowers 
is observed among the rocks. It is curious to discuss the man- 
ner in which the seeds of the plant were first brought hero, for 
it is entirely unlike any other plant found in this part of the 
world. But at any rate it is here, and detracts very much from 
the gloominess of the scene. Higher up there is nothing but 
bleak bare rock. Near the top at a comparatively level place, 
we leave the ponies to stand shivering in the cold with nothing 
to eat, till we are ready to return. If you propose to pass the 
night on the mountain, you must have another horse sent up, 
when you are ready to return. The few steps which separate 
us from the top are easily passed over on foot, the ponies being 
left here merely for the convenience of the guides, so that they 
shall not become mingled with those from other paths. A fin- 
ger on a guide-board elevated upon a pile of stones points out 
the path, the buildings on the summit being as yet hidden from 
view. 

The Summit. 

The acre of comparatively level surface on the top of the 
mountain is so completely covered with irregular angular rocks, 
that one can scarcely find a smooth place to stand upon. The 
building, which first appears in sight, is the " Tip-Top " House. 
This is used at present as a dining room. A little to the east, 
6* 



66 WHITE MOUNTAIN QUIDS. 

and somewhat below, is the " Summit " House, the first build- 
ing ever erected on the mountain. Both of these have thick 
walls of the native rock, and are very low, with roofs nearly flat 
60 as to present as little surface as possible to the fierce winds. 
The Summit House was erected in 1852, by the united efforts 
of Mr. Hall and Mr. Rosebrook, two farmers of Jefferson. It 
was commenced in June, and sufficiently completed towards the 
close of July, as to form a comfortable shelter. It is bound 
down to the mountain by several large cables, which pass over 
the top of the roof. The interior is divided into two principal 
rooms, each of which is heated by a stove. Around these fires 
the shivering guests crowd, and present about the same appear- 
ance, as travellers in January stopping to warm themselves at a 
country Inn. The thermometer does not perhaps indicate a 
temperature below 50*^, but the constant wind produces the 
effect of even thirty degrees below that point. In the rear of 
the main rooms are narrow dormitories, with berths arranged 
along the wall, like those in the cabin of a steamboat. Above 
are also other *' sleeping-places" separated from the rooms below 
by wooden slats. Every cubic inch of space within the build- 
ing appears to be turned to some account. The tops of the 
lower rooms are ceiled with cotton cloth, but the sides are form- 
ed of rough stone walls, well pointed with mortar like a common 
cellar wall. In deep recesses are good glass windows, increasing 
very materially the comfort of the place. This and the " Tip- 
Top " House, erected some years afterwards, together form a 
hotel, at which we can stop as long as we choose. Neither does 
it seem by any means a bad one, when we consider that every 
foot of board, and every article of furniture has been brought 
several miles up these steep paths on the backs either of men or 
of horses. Stoyie and water are the only materials to be ob- 
tained on the summit, a never-failing spring of the latter being 
found a few rods north of the Summit House, a little down the 
mountain. The expense of bringing up coal, added to its origi- 
nal cost, makes an aggregate of MO a ton, and all articles of 



WUITE MOUNTAIN GUIDE. 67 

food are obtained only by a corresponding outlay. We must 
not, therefore, be surprised at the charge of $4 a day for our 
board, if we choose to stay awhile. If the tourist wishes to 
devote his whole time to the view, a luncheon taken from the 
hotel will make an excellent substitute for the dinner in the 
Summit House. It has been proposed to erect a first class hotel 
on the summit, and to connect it with the base of the mountain 
by a regularly graded road. Perhaps then the accommodations 
would be better, and the price lower, but there would be little 
to satisfy the love of adventure in ascending Mt. Washington 
over a Macadamized road, in a cushioned omnibus ! It is by no 
means to be lamented, by those, who enjoy the present method 
of ascent, that the project has been abandoned for the present. 

There are generally three parties arriving on the summit every 
day, one from the Crawford House, one over Fabyan's Path, 
and one from the Glen House. Quite a large number is gen- 
erally stopping here, so that it is not unusual to meet a hundred 
people on the top of the mountain in the middle of the day. 
One of the pleasantest elements of the excursion is the manner 
in which so many persons are thrown for one time into one fam- 
ily sympathizing in their common elevation above the rest of 
mankind. 

The view from the summit has already been described. After 
remaining about two hours on the summit, we must prepare for 
The Descent. 

Returning to the spot, where the ponies were left, we find 
eacb one looking for his steed, and mounting with as much 
speed, as the chilly wind, and the rough rock will allow. The 
ladies generally walk down the first steep descent to the plain, 
as it is much more difiicult than the ascent. There is really no 
danger however, as the pouies never take a step till they see 
where they are going. The view is also much finer going down, 
as our faces are now turned away from the steep side of the 
mountain. Especially is it beautiful on the right of Mt. Mon- 



68 WHITE MOUNTAIN GUIDB. 

roe, wtere we can trace the silver water of the Ammonoosuc in 
its windings through the forest far below. Soon after reaching 
the plain the party becomes scattered, and we wander on per- 
haps alone, greeting each solitary peak, like an old friend, as 
we pass it, and arrive at last at the summit of Clinton. The 
descent of this mountain becomes somewhat tiresome, with its 
interminable ** corduroys," and its troublesome black flies, and 
we are not sorry at last to discover the white piazza of the 
Crawford House appearing through the trees. 

AscBNT OF Mt. Washington by the Carriage Road. 

Besides the regular bridle-path up the mountain from Gibb's, 
there is an excellent and commodious carriage road, easily acces- 
sible from Gibb's and from Brabrook's. Few who ascend the 
mountain are aware of its existence, and very few of those who 
are aware of it, are at all familiar with the facilities thus pre- 
sented for an easy and expeditious mode of overcoming the 
difficulties of the mountain travel. 

It strikes off from the main road about half way between 
Gibb's and Brabrook's and follows up a branch of the Ammon- 
oosuc. It is quite level, and, in fact, a much better road than 
many a one traversed by coaches every day. Any one can 
drive a two-horse team to " Cold Spring," which is only three 
miles from the summit. Stables have been erected here, and 
ponies for the remainder of the journey are now to be taken. 
From this point the ascent is directly up the side of Mt. Wash- 
ington, and is perhaps steeper than the other track. But it has 
none of that disagreeable, tiresome corduroy road. One pkce 
which they call " Jacob's Ladder," to a white cravat, and the 
" Devil's," to men who patronise the guide's flask, is exceed- 
ingly steep. But the guides, when belated, always take this 
path. 

The view on the ascent, though perhaps less extended than 
on the longer path, is still very pleasing. On the one hand is 
the wild, foaming Ammonoosuc, which rolls merrily along over 



WniTE MOUNTAIN GUIDE. 69 

rapids and cataracts or stretches in broad, gravelly reaches across 
your path ; on the other hand the wooded heights stretch gently 
up the sides of Mt. Washington with many an enchanting view 
down the sloping vales. 

Crawford House to Profile House. 

This trip, like the last, is performed in stages, which leave 
the Crawford House every morning about eight. The distance 
is not far from twenty-seven miles. If you expect to proceed 
through Franconia to Plymouth, and thence by rail, you had 
better procure tickets for the whole stage route through to 
Plymouth. There is an agent at the Crawford House, who 
will sell you such tickets for $5. If you prefer a ticket to the 
Flume House, five miles beyond the Profile House, it will cost 
you $3. It is fifty cents less to the Profile House. There aro 
also stages leaving the Crawford House for Littleton, and the 
Connecticut River railways, without stopping at Franconia. 

After leaving the Crawford House, we descend into the forest 
towards the northwest, in which we continue for several miles. 
Occasionally an opening in the trees on the right discloses the 
giant forms of the White Mountains, and in one place wo 
observe the road turning to the right, over which carriages from 
the Crawford House pass in order to reach Fabyan's Path. At 
last we cross the Ammonoosuc, about four miles from the Notch, 
and arrive at the Clearing, in which is 

The Giant's Grave. 

This is a singular tumulus, rising sixty feet high in the 
midst of an extended cleared plain. From its summit there is 
gained a magnificent view of the surrounding mountains. 
Towards the east we behold Mt. Washington with all its noble 
compeers in their order, on each side. The monster slides on 
Mt. Pleasant have been imagined to resemble an Indian Chief 
with a plume in his cap, and a tomahawk in his hand. This 
resemblance is quite striking, and improves as wo proceed 



70 WHITE MOUNTAIN GUIDE. 

farther and farther away. When, however, we attempt to see 
his squaw sitting by the Chief's side, a much larger draught on 
the imagination is required. But whether wc recognize these 
resemblances or not, the lengthened scars themselves, a thousand 
feet in height, form a sufl5ciently engaging object of attention. 

Grand as is the view from the Giant's Grave, we need not 
leave it with such reluctance, as we should, were we not to 
carry the picture with us for hours, as we ascend the hills to 
Bethlehem. On the top of this mound a remarkable echo is 
heard, when a horn is blown. Almost directly opposite the 
Giant's Grave is the ruin pf Fabyan's " Mt. Washington House," 
which was for several years the most famous hotel of this region, 
but was at last unfortunately burned. From this point proceeds 
Fabyan's Path to Mt. Washington. It is the oldest of all the 
bridle paths, and was cut in 1821, by Ethan Allen Crawford, 
who resided at the Ilosebrook house near this place. For nearly 
seven miles it proceeds over a comparatively level surface, till 
it comes to the very foot of Mt. Washington. 
White Mountain House. 

About half a mile farther we come to this hotel, on the site 
of the old Ilosebrook House, and kept at present by Mr. G. 
T. Bkabrook. It is a very pleasantly situated, and quiet 
House in the midst of an open tract of country. In the rear 
is a fine view of the White Mountains, and in front, beyond the 
Amraonoosuc, rises the lofty range which connects the Great 
Notch with Franconia. 

From this house a good carriage road has been built during the 
last season to within about two miles of the summit of Mt. 
Washington. A carriage runs over the road daily, in the season 
of travel. Ponies are taken for the last two miles. 'The price 
is the same as on the other routes. This is, undoubtedly, the 
easiest and most leisurely way of making the ascent ; but while 
you escape the fatigue of the longer bridle-paths you also loose 
many of the noble views which are thereby gained. 



WUITE MOUNTAIN GUIDE. 71 

A carriage road has also been built to the summit of Mt. 
Prospect, to which excursions are frequently made. This is 
also an excellent starting place for excursions along the Am- 
monoosuc. Mr. Brabrook has horses ready at all times for the 
accommodation of his guests. The price of board is here $2 
per day. 

Ammonoosuo Falls. 

A short distance farther, on the left of the road, are tho 
famous falls of the Ammonoosuc. This stream is said to be 
the wildest and most rapid of all the rivers of New Hampshire, 
falling more than a mile in its course of thirty miles, from Mt. 
Washington to the Connecticut river. It has many cascades, 
some of which are higher than this, but none more attractive. 
Here the water issues from a forest of evergreens, and leaps 
down thirty feet over broad steps of granite. The rocks on 
each side seem laid in courses, as if by the hand of a mason. 
When the amount of water is large it rushes into the pool below 
with such force as to throw it into heaps several feet in height. 
This cascade unites the wildness of Nature with a close resem- 
blance to the nice workmanship of Art, in a most surprising 
and beautiful manner. It is so near the road that it is not 
necessary to leave the coach in order to enjoy its full effect ; 
although one might pass several hours very pleasantly in a 
ramble along the banks of the river. 

Ammonoosuc Bridge. 
After proceeding several miles with the Ammonoosuc on our 
right, we suddenly cross it by a strong wooden bridge. Tho 
history of the bridges, which have been erected here, as nar- 
rated by Mr. Willey, is somewhat interesting. When Bethle- 
hem was first settled in 1790, under the name of Lord's Hill, 
Capt. Rosebrook cut a road from his house through the forest 
about twelve miles to the new settlement. A log bridge was 
thrown across the river, which was however soon washed away 
by the spring freshets. At last the newly formed town of 



72 WHITE MOUNTAIN GUIDE. 

Bethlehem voted in 1800 to build a bridge at this place at a 
cost of $390. There was such a scarcity of provisions at this 
time, that the workmen were forced to live on milk porridge. 

Betulehem. 
Two or three miles over gently rising ground brings us to 
Bethlehem, a beautiful airy village, about seventeen miles from 
the Notch, famous for its view of the whole range of the White 
Mountains. You feel a greater satisfaction in surveying them 
from this place, than from any other point, where the view is so 
comprehensive. Towards the north west are some noble white 
marble mountains in Vermont, appearing clothed in a garment 
of snow from base to summit. This place has grown from the 
little settlement of "Lord's Hill" of seventy years ago, into a 
flourishing village containing two fine churches, five large saw- 
mills, and one or two extensive starch factories. 

First View of Franconia. 

From Bethlehem there are two roads to Franconia Notch. 
Whichever we take, we must ascend a high and toilsome hill, 
but the view from the summit repays us for all our delay. 
Directly in front appears the grand range of the Franconia 
Mountains, with the head of Lafayette standing majestically 
above them all, and on the right of it the dark opening of the 
Notch. This view will be described more fully hereafter. 

We are now obliged to descend from our lofty position into 
the valley of the south branch of the Ammonoosuc, which we 
cross and begin the slow ascent to the Notch. Winding through 
its shady ravines we come at last to the Profile House. 

Franconia Notch and its Neighborhood. 
The Franconia Kange of hills though properly belonging to 
the White Mountain Range, is still so distinct and peculiar in 
its character as to deserve a lengthened notice. The beauties 
of the surrounding scenery entitle it to all the admiration which 
the tourist bestows upon it. Indeed by old habitues of the 



WHITE MOUNTAIN GUIDE. 7S 

region, Franconia is considered the gem of the mountains. 
There is not the overpowering grandeur, which belongs to the 
White Mountains, while the greater variety of interesting ob- 
jects amply compensates for the absence of more stately scenes. 
The quiet beauty, and the repose of Nature in the Franconia 
Notch may well introduce the traveller to the higher sublimity 
beyond, or refresh him as he retires from the powerful influence 
which he has felt before the majesty of the North. There is a 
tranquility in the former feeling, and a sense of relief in the 
latter, which prepares or soothes the mind. Here is rest ; here 
is comfort. Beneath the shadow of these solemn mountains, 
the weary soul finds a calm composure. Selfishness and world- 
liness are rebuked. The most thoughtless are hushed to reflec- 
tion, and a better understanding of life grows up in the midst 
of Nature's grand instructions. We do not suppose our tourist 
is in quest of mere pleasure ; we believe him to be a better and 
nobler man or woman than to spend his days thus. He is open 
to every good influence, that will make life more rich and 
beautiful and fair. There is no better influence than that of 
which he will be sensible, in the still retreat of Franconia. 

The Profile House, a new and large hotel of the very best 
and most comfortable accommodations, is situated in the im- 
mediate vicinity of Echo Lake, Cannon Mountain, Eagle Cliflf, 
The Profile, and Mount Lafayette, It is on a level plain, a 
few acres in area, in the bosom of the hills. It has two 
approaches, on the north, from Bethlehem and Littleton, on the 
south, from the Flume House and the Pemigewasset Yalley. 
Of the approach from Littleton we have already written. From 
Bethlehem, over the road from Crawford's, the approach is 
sometimes startling in its eflfect. The views shift with great 
rapidity, at one time are wholly concealed, at another break 
forth upon the traveller with surprising abruptness. Going up 
the slow ascent of the tedious hill east of Bethlehem, one may 
think it tiresome and dull, and that the vaunted glories of the 
7 



74 WHITE MOUNTAIN GUIDE, 

region exist only in the imagination of the admirer. But on 
reaching the top of the hill a magnificent prospect stretches 
before him. Across the Franconia Talley rise the lofty summits 
of Lafayette, with his seamed and scarred sides, and the kindred 
mountains, standing like Bentinels to guard the pass against 
profane intruders. Their irregularity is most picturesque, while, 
at the same time, they are most finely grouped. They stand 
out in most august proportions, relieyed by the dark blue of the 
clear summer sky. We ride down the hill into the twilight 
stillness of the forest between us and our destination, with 
something of reverence and awo mingled with the transports of 
our admiration. 

Echo Lake. 
In the woods, to the north of the hotel, a short distance from 
the road, over which we have just travelled, lies embosomed. 
Echo Lake. It is a sheet of water of great depth and transpa- 
rency, and as it sleeps there in its secure repose, seems the 
very type of rest. All around rise the green hills of the region, 
Lafayette lifting his rocky summit high above them all. The 
setting is appropriate for this exquisite gem. One never wearies 
of the quiet scene. A little boat with paddles conveys the 
passenger to the middle of the Lake, and to the different points 
where the best views may be obtained. Here are the centres 
of the most marvellous echoes. The sounds of a tin horn, blown 
with skill, will be returned in oft repeated notes like the 
sweetest music. The human voice, shouting distinctly, will be 
re-echoed with wonderful effect, as though the invisible inhabi- 
tants of the hills were holding a colloquy with " the babbling 
gossip of the air." The report of a cannon fired on the shore 
will reverberate like peals of thunder among the fastnesses of 
the mountains. In the stillness of morning or in the quiet 
of the evening at the sunset hour, the Lake is the resort of those 
who best know and can appreciate the wonder of the place. 
The wind is whist ; the waters sleep } the mountains are silent ; 



WHITE MOUNTAIN GUIDE. tO 

tho purple glow is on all the trees and rocks. Then is the time to 
wake the slumbering echoes, and hear the many voices that reply. 
He that has not visited this lovely spot at this bewitching time, 
does not understand half the magical, secret beauty which 
lingers around Echo Lake. 

Eagle Cliff. 

Almost directly overhanging tho hotel, on the north, is 
Eaglb Cliff. It is a huge, columnar crag, separated from 
the crest of the mountain, and rising, perpendicularly, with 
jagged rocks, seemingly ready to topple from its place in wide- 
spread ruin beneath. This precipitous cliff derives its name 
from the fact that it was chosen for an eyrie by a pair of eagles 
a few seasons ago. They are sometimes to be seen circling 
around its summit, and looking down, as though with lordly 
disdain, upon the gazing crowds below, who have invaded their 
solitude. No prouder position could be chosen for a habitation 
by this noble bird. It stands out in the picture a most prom- 
inent and majestic peak. Approached from the south, it is 
finely portrayed upon the background of the sky. A point 
about three-fourths of a mile distant, upon the border of Ferrin's 
pond furnishes the finest view. Its lofty crags are distinctly 
seen within a frame-work of deep green, formed by the luxuriant 
birches and vines that attempt to clamber up its sides. At 
sunrise or sunset, when all is dark in the valley, the rosy light 
softens the rude outline, and it shines out in clear brightness 
above the mists below. As you sit on the piazza of the hotel, 
the cliff looms before you in gigantic proportions, a study for 
the present, and a glorious memory for tho future to recall. 
Profile Mountain. 

Directly opposite Eagle Cliff, on the south side of the Notch, 
rises Cannon, or, as we prefer to call it. Profile Mountain. 
The former name is given, on account of a supposed resemblance 
to a cannon, which a rock upon its summit exhibits. The latter 
more appropriately belongs to it, since it bears upon tho south- 



76 WHITE MOUNTAI!f GUIDE. 

em extremity of its crest, the ** Great Stone Face.'* The 
mountain is easy of ascent, by means of a foot-path, which 
seems to lead almost directly from the front of the hotel to the 
summit. The view from the platform of denuded rock above, 
down the valley of the Pemigewasset surpasses description. 
The silvery stream, the quiet forests, the verdant meadows, the 
placid lakes, the clustering village^', unite in a picture of en- 
chanting loveliness. The surrounding peaks, and the towering 
heights of Washington and its peers, with the softly swelling 
hills sloping away to the south, present all that one can imagine 
of the grand and of the beautiful in mountain scenery. A 
visit to Franconia is incomplete without the ascent of Profile 
Mountain. An outlay of a few dollars would complete an 
excelleat saddle-path to its summit. 
Cascade. 
Immediately behind the Profile House there is a cascade, 
which, from the facility with which it may be reached by the 
tourist, deserves our notice. A path, entering the woods in the 
rear of the old Lafayette House, and following the aqueduct 
which supplies the hotel with water, conducts us in a short and 
pleasant walk to a brook, which, when swollen by a recent rain, 
presents a succession of cascades that will amply repay a visit. 
The bed of the brook lies for a long distance over a shelving 
ledge of gufScient extent to impress one adequately with tho 
gigantic frame-work of our granite hills. This feature of the 
scene, together with the charming glimpses of Echo Lake and 
the surrounding mountains which are caught in the ascent, will 
render a visit to this cascade pleasant at any time. But only 
after a heavy rain, or amid melting snows, is it seen to advan- 
tage, and one will often desire some such arrangement for dis- 
playing its magnificent capabilities as exists, to credit Mr, 
Curtis' Lotus-Eating, at the Catskill Falls. 

Mt. Lafayette 
is but five hundred feet below Mt. Washington in height, and 



WHITE MOUNTAIN GUIDE. 77 

the view from its summifc, Is thought by many to equal, and even 
surpass that from its rival's crest. A good foot-path leads up 
its rocky sides, and the persevering lover of nature, who is not 
afriid to make exertion, and is willing to expend his strength, 
will he most abundantly rewarded for his labors. At one time 
horses were kept in readiness at the hotel stables for the ascent 
of this lofty peak, but for some unknown reason they have 
not been used of late. It is to be hoped, that the enterprising 
proprietors of the hotels will *' organize " some permanent ar- 
rangement for the convenience of the numerous visitors, who 
would desire to enjoy the prospect afforded them from the sum- 
mit of this mountain.* "Lafayette is distinguished over its 
fellows," says a recent writer upon the charms of this region, 
** not only by his height, but also by the rocky bareness of his 
peaked summit, that descends with converging rows of ravines, 
and hemlock-topped cliffs into an immense verdant basin pre- 
sented toward us. In fine weather, the dry rocks of these 
ravines shine like bars of silver, and after heavy rains, they 
glisten with the torrents disappearing into the vast shadowy 
basin below." There is upon the mountain, located on one of 
its most inaccessible points, a strange looking stone of large 
size and unusual form. It was named by those who discovered 
it, " The Altar," from a fancied resemblance which they dis- 
cerned to the old Runic remains of a similar character. It is 
based upon a granite pile, and seemingly intended for purposes 
of sacrifice. It is more than probable, that it may have been 
used by some Indian ** medicine-man " in his solitary incanta- 
tions and rites. We might well imagine, how he would sepa- 
rate himself from his tribe, and spend the day upon the summit 
of this lonely peak, offering upon the altar, his sacrifice to the 



* We are informed tliat the present enterprising company, owning 
the Hotels, has made arrangements to have the bridle-path re-graded, 
and that ponies will be furnished for those wishing to ascend. The 
ascent can be made in about three hours. The price for pony and guide 
is $3.00. 



78 WHITE MOUNTAIN GUIDB. 

Gods whom he worshipped. The mountains have always been 
sacred places. Olympus has its classic fame as the seat of Jove ; 
Sinai, Horeb, and Carmel have their Divine associations; 
Olivet is held in aflfectionate veneration, as there seem to linger 
even yet among its wooded heights, the accents of the Saviour's 
voice of prayer. Lafayette might well awe the rude worship- 
pers of the forest and the wild, and teach them of the presence 
of the Great Spirit. 

But the great marvel and pride of this region is the 
Pkofile. 

As we walk down the road to the south of the hotel, we soon 
come to a rude bench by the way side, and, attracted by the 
guide board above it, inscribed with the single, simple word, 
*' Profile," as we direct our eyes to the point which it indicates, 
the huge face with all its features thoroughly delineated, stands 
out in bold outline, before our sight. There it is, a collossal, 
completely symmetrical profile, looking down upon the valley 
from its lofty height, perfectly distinct and clear. The tourist 
may possibly think that this, like other wonderful stories of 
which veracious Guide-books tell, may be a myth, and that the 
eimilarity may exist only in the fancy of the writer. But no ! 
This time, at least, he will acknowledge, that there is no de- 
lusion. Nature has carved out, with the most accurate chisel- 
ling, this astonishing sculpture. Every portion of the face is 
there, upon the solid mountain steep. There is the stern, pro- 
jecting, massive brow, as though stamped with the thought and 
wisdom of centuries. The nose is straight, finely cut, and 
sharply outlined. The thin, senile lips are parted, as though 
about to utter the thunders of majestic speech. The chin is 
well thrown forward, with exact proportionate length, betoken- 
ing the hard, obstinate character of the " Old Man," who has 
faced, with such unmoving steadiness, the storms of ages. 
The Sphynx of the Desert must acknowledge its inferiority to 
this marvellous face upon the mountain. When seen in the 



WHITE MOUNTAIN GUIDE. 79 

morning, as the mists float up from the valley beneath and along 
its ponderous features, it looms into larger proportions still, and 
with the heavy gray beard, which sometimes settles upon its 
chin, and down its breast, it seems like the face of some hoary 
patriarch of antiquity. We think that it is Henry Ward 
Beecher, who makes the remark, that " as men are accustomed 
to hang out before their shop doors certain signs, to designate 
their respective occupations, so here God has sculptured this 
great Face, to show that in these regions, he makes men." 

"It is not advisable," says one of the admirers of the Old 
Man of the Mountain, ** to go to take your first look at him, when 
the sun lights up the chasm of his granite cheek, and the cav- 
ernous mystery of his bent brow. Go to him, when, in the 
solemn light of evening, the mountain heaves up from tho 
darkening lake its vast wave of luxuriant foliage. Sit on ono 
of those rocks by the road side, and look, if you can, without 
awe, at the Granite Face, human in its lineaments, supernatural 
in size and position, weird-like in its shadowy mystery, but its 
sharp outline wearing an expression of mortal sadness, that gives 
it the most fascinating interest." It was doubtless an object 
of veneration to the aboriginal inhabitants. Various tradition- 
ary tales are yet extant, respecting the superstitious homage 
once paid to it by the Indian tribes who frequented the locality. 
Kelics of their life, and singular utensils of a former genera- 
tion have been found near it. To the whites, however, it has 
been little known, till within the last forty years. In the early 
part of the present century, the road that passes along this way 
was laid out, and in clearing the land of the trees that impeded 
the path, the profile was discovered. Since that time, it has 
been an object of the most absorbing interest. The genius of 
Hawthorne has embalmed it in our literature, and his story of 
*' The Great Stone Face," can only be read appreciatively be- 
neath its shadow. We give a view of the " Old Man." It 
does not, however, do justice to his venerable appearance, and 
the traveller will find the reality for excelling the image. 




Yiew of the Old Man of the Mountain. 



WHITE MOUNTAIN GUIDE. 81 

To those who are curious in exploration, the opportunity is 
easily improved of ascending by a foot path to the point above 
the Profile. It has been ascertained, that the height of the 
old man is very nearly fifteen hundred feet above the level of 
the little lake below it, and that the length of the face is from 
sixty to eighty feet. In the many conflicts with the elements 
which it has endured, it has been roughened and scarred. But 
from the road, no such appearance is presented, except through 
a telescope, and the face appears fair and smooth. The preci- 
pice, of which it forms the extremity, is not unlike the Palisades 
in appearance. It extends for nearly two miles along the es- 
carpment of the mountain, and is a prominent part of the 
scenery of the section. The Profile itself undergoes many 
changes according to the point of observation. It changes from 
its severe facial outline to a jagged, and, apparently shapeless 
mass of rocks, or to a face with flat forehead, or with a huge, 
Roman nose, or to tho unmeaning, and retreating countenance 
of some wild animal. It is only at the place where the guide- 
board is erected, that the Profile is to be most distinctly seen. 
One can spend an hour or two no more profitably than by gaz- 
ing upon its fascinating, and wonderful lineaments, and he will 
return to look upon it once more, that it may be the last remem- 
brance, ere he bids farewell to this delightful spot. 
Profile Lake. 

Immediately below the Face, as_^though Nature would provide 
for her creation an appropriate mirror, nestles the beautiful 
sheet of water, known as Ferrin's Pond. Why not call it 
by a better and more appropriate name ? Let it be baptized 
Profile Lake, or, if one desires a more fanciful title — The 
Old Man's Mirror. The more prosaic call it, the Old Man's 
Washbowl ! By whatever name it may be called, no appella- 
tion will ever detract from, or add to its simple loveliness. It 
lies there, surrounded by rich rolling forests, and above it the 
precipitous mountain I Its crystal depths reflect the overhang- 



82 WUITE MOUNTAIN GUIDK. 

ing trees, and its bright expanse smiles joyously in the sunlight. 
The very finest trout live in its waters, as though only the 
choicest and most delicate of fish were suited to inhabit such a 
pure abode. We cannot help thinking, how the Greek love of 
the beautiful would have peopled all this region with the crea- 
tions of its sacred mythology. Even the cold fancy of occi' 
dental nature, warms beneath the genial influence, and breaks 
forth in the most demonstrative admiration. 

Proceeding along the road, to the southward of the Profile 
House, about three and a half miles distant from the Hotel, wo 
arrive at 

The Basin. 

The waters of the Pemigewasset, flowing from Profile Lake, 
after tumbling in many a beautiful cascade over the rocks that 
lie in their course, find their way with many meanderings, to this 
point near the road side. Here they fall over a rocky ledge, a 
few feet in height, into a deep hollow in the solid granite. 
The diameter of this rocky basin, formed by the continual action 
of the water and mingled stones and boulders from above, is 
about thirty feet in its shortest width, and forty feet in its 
longest. Its circumference is not far from sixty feet. Its depth 
is of such proportions — ordinarily of fifteen feet — as to form a 
by no means shallow bowl, which is always filled with cold, 
pure, and pellucid water. On one side, the rocks jut over the 
mimic depths, forming a dam for the flowing stream, thus pro- 
ducing the most exquisite of waterfalls. The embankment 
surrounding it, is covered, in the proper season with green 
mosses and sweet flowers, with their delicate bells 

" Tolling their perfume on the passing air." 
At the other extremity, where the delivered waters, free from 
their temporary imprisonment make their way out, singing as 
they go, is a fissure in the rock, forming another little water 
fall. Upon one side is a peculiar conformation of the granite, 
which by a slight stretch of the fancy, can be said to resemble 



WHITE MOUNTAIN GUIDE. 83 

a titanic leg and foot, scooped out and polished by the ever- 
flowing current. As you look down into these transparent wa" 
ters, the bed of the Basin can be distinctly seen, so fair and 
clear is their emerald purity. One is almost tempted to fling 
aside his outer garments, and plunge into this luxurious and 
delicious bath. It is certainly fit for the ablutions of a goddess. 
There is a peculiar and almost magical charm about the Basin, 
which enchains you to its margin, and will not let you go free. 
You are obliged at last to tear yourself away with many regrets 
that the time of your sojourn amid these beautiful haunts of 
Nature is so brief. But 

"A thing of beauty is a joy forcrcr," 

and your recollection will often recur to these distant scenes, as 

you live over again in delighted memory, the joys of other days. 

Cascades. 

A rude bridge of logs is thrown across the brook at the out- 
let of the Basin, more for purposes of convenience, than as an 
enhancement of the beauty of the spot. Crossing this, and 
following up the stream, for about two hundred rods, one dis- 
covers a cascade of the very sweetest loveliness. The waters 
fall over the rocks in beautiful sheets of foam, and, with the 
banks lined with the richest foliage, the little stream goes on its 
way rejoicing. The majority of travellers do not explore this 
region, but are contented with a passing glance at the Basin. 
The best way to enjoy these scenes, is to ramble about at one's 
own sweet will, and meet with surprises at every step, as Nature 
presents her pictures. Let no one forget to examine the course 
of the little stream now before him. He will find all along its 
way, the most numerous objects to give him pleasure and satis- 
faction. 

A mile or two farther, and we reach the 
Flume House. 

No site can be more full of beauty, than that, which is occu- 
pied by this commodious hotel. Directly in front is Mt. Liberty, 



84 WHITE MOUNTAIN GUIDE. 

with its fancied resemblance to the profile of Geo. "Washington, 
closing the view of the *' forest primeval," with its shades of 
rich green foliage, its quiet groves, and its soft and pleasant 
paths. On the north is the picturesque Notch, with all its sur- 
roundings in bold outline. From the southern piazza, the whole 
Pemigewasset valley is in sight, unequalled for the variety 
which the wide prospect exhibits. No one can sit on this piazza 
at the close of day, to watch the glories of the sunset, and note 
the charming effects produced on " hill and dale, and pleasant 
intervale," without becoming a more kindly and better man. 
The sweet voices of Nature are to his soul full of gratitude and 
praise. 

The Flume and the Cascades. 

In the neighborhood of the Flume House, are the three chief 
remaining objects of interest at the Franconia mountains. 
These are the Flume, the Cascade and the Pool. The former 
is in a south easterly direction from the hotel, about threo 
quarters of a mile distant. A good road leads to the lower 
part of the Cascade below the Flume. Thence, a foot path 
leads up the course of the stream. Crossing and recrossing at 
intervals, clambering up the sides of steep rocks, again follow- 
ing the bed of the stream itself, one finds at every forward 
movement, something to admire. The cascade is a continuous 
fall — a sheet of molten silver, on the smooth and polished rock 
— of more than six hundred feet. The descent is very gradual, 
with occasional abruptness. With the murmur of its waters in 
the ear, and its marvellous beauty in the eye, we ascend to the 
Flume itself. No more wild and striking view can be imagined. 
For seven or eight hundred feet and more, the stream pours its 
volume along a rocky bed, which breaks it up into numberless 
waterfalls, between two mural precipices, that lift themselves on 
either side, crowned with the abundant foliage of the forest. 
The height of these walls, in from sixty to seventy feet. The 
width between them is a general average of twenty feet, except 



WniTB MOUNTAIN GUIDE. 85 

at the upper end. Here the walls approach each other. Sud- 
denly contracting to about ten feet, they hold suspended be- 
tween them, about mid way up their sides, a huge boulder of 
granite. So nicely is it adjusted, and so slight appears its hold, 
that one would think the slightest touch sufficient to push ifc 
from its resting place into the ravine below. By what process 
it has fallen into its present position — indeed in what manner 
this remarkable fracture of the rock has taken place — is a puzzle 
for scientific heads. Its presence greatly adds to the wildness 
of the scene. We are content with that, and do not care to 
speculate about its cause. In general, one can follow the stream 
through this narrow gorge — not without trepidation as he passes 
beneath the suspended mass — and by climbing the rocky heights, 
can obtain a capital view from above. The trunk of a tree lies 
across the chasm, forming a temporary and precarious bridge. 
We would suggest to the proprietors of the hotels, to fell one or 
(iwo more trees, and give a safer foot-hold to those adventurers, 
who are desirous of seeing all the wonders of the place. la 
the Autumn, when the forests are rich in purple, crimson, and 
gold, or in the winter, when the ravine is filled with snow, and 
icicles hang from tho cliflfs, and the little stream bursts through 
its partial confinement, the scene must be one of great grandeur. 
In the luxuriance of summer, it is more fresh and glowing, the 
verdure of the woods relieving the nakedness of the rocks. Iq 
all seasons, it is a plaee for study, for reflection and delight. 

The scene most forcibly suggests to one the following lines 
from Shelley's Cenci, (Act 3, scene 1). It would seem as if 
ihe Poet had in mind the Flume itself. It is the speech of 
Beatrice when they are plotting the destruction of Count 
Francesco, 

" But I remember 
Two miles on this side of the fort, the road 
Crosses a deep ravine ; 'tis rough and narrow, 
And winds -witli short turns down the precipice 5 
Ad5 is its depth there is a mighty rock, 

8 




^^{^^■: 


" M 


.*""C';l^- 


'''^1 


'^ -^^^^K^^ 


j^p^ 


iC^^^^^B 


^^^S 


pSr;; J'.},. -^\^E^3I»^ 


^m^^^mmi 


^&.::V>i.- v^.-v S^^^^B 


WBtl^^^m 


i^^^^^K^P 


IJMI^j^S 


^^^^H 


^hM 


j^j^^H^^jBlgsl^BJ 


BHiBIKBril 



Yiew of the Flume. 



TVinXE MOUNTAIN GUIDE. 87 

Which has, from xmimaginable years, 

Sustained itself with terror and with toil 

Over a gulf, and with the agony 

"With which it clings, seems slowly coming down ; 

Even as a wretched soul hour after hour 

Clings to the mass of life ; yet, clinging, leans ; 

And, leaning, makes more dark the dread abyss 

In which it fears to fall : beneath this crag 

Huge as despair, as if in weariness. 

The melancholy mountain yawns — below. 

You hear but see not an impetuous torrent 

Raging among the caverns, and a bridge 

Crosses the chasm ; and high above there grow, 

With intersecting trunks, from crag to crag, 

Cedars, and yews, and pines, whose tangled hair 

Is matted in one solid roof of shade 

By the dark ivy's twine. At noonday here 

'Tis twilight and at sunset blackest night." 

Returning from the Flume, we find the path to the 

Pool 

directly in front of the Hotel, leading straight into the woods. 
A walk of three quarters of a mile, beneath the overhanging 
branches brings us to this famous and wonderful formation. 
A deep excavation, as though hewn by human hands, in the 
granite, holds the waters, which enter by a cascade from the 
upper, and escape through an opening in the mass of rocks at 
the lower extremity. The width of the Pool is about a hundred 
and fifty feet ; its depth about forty feet. From the brink of 
the wall above to the surface below, the distance is very nearly 
one hundred and fifty feet. It is a place of wondrous attrac- 
tion. It may not have the charm of the Basin, but it is more 
secluded, and the sight of it is an ample reward for the toils of 
the way, if toils they may be called. The rambling wood path 
and the stroll along its pleasant way can never be toilsome to 
the true lover of Nature, even though so worthy an object of 
admiration as i3 the Pool, were not at its termination. 



^ white mountain guide. 

Hotels. 

"We cannot close our notice of this locality, without recom- 
mending to the tourist the comforts and conveniences of the two 
Hotels, which are established liere. Both are unsurpassed in 
their character. If faithful attention, clean rooms, — such as 
Isaac Walton loved — a profuse table, and beauty of locality, 
can furnish a desirable resting place for the traveller, these are 
all to be found in this favored spot. The Houses are under 
the management of one Company, st3-led "The Flume and 
Franconia Hotel Company." Their property embraces the two 
Hotels with their out-buildings, horses, carriages, etc., and about 
fifteen hundred acres of land. The Company is chartered by 
the State and the property is valued at $150,000. The Direct- 
ors are well and favorably known in the business world ; Hon. 
Joseph A. Gilmore of Concord has been chosen President. 
The mere mention of his name is a sufficient guarantee that 
these Hotels will maintain their long established reputation. 

The Profile House is under the sole direction of Hiram 
Bell, Esq., whose reputation, as a landlord, is second to none. 
Large experience and a perfect knowledge of the mountains and 
of the wants of travellers has gained for Mr. Bell a reputation, 
which, we are confident, future seasons will extend. 

The Flume House is under the superintendance of W. H. 
DuNTON, Esq., long and favorably known in northern New 
York. The "Flume House" has always been a favorite tarry- 
ing place for those accustomed to spend a long time among the 
mountains. In a small chapel, near by, religious services aro 
commonly held on Sunday. 

Long may these Hotels continue in prosperity and success, 
to be remembered by the sojourner under their roofs, with 
grateful and pleasing recollection ! 

Note. "We cannot too strongly recommend the necessity to 
the tourist of sufficient and water proof clothing. The weather 
13 so uncertain among the mountains, that it is well to bo pre- 



WHITE MOUNTAIN GriDE. 89 

pared to defy the elements. The coolness of the atmosphere 
renders extra clothing necessary, while rubber boots, capes for 
ladies, and overcoats for gentlemen will enable one to enjoy the 
scenery whatever aspect the face of the sky may wear. 

Having now completed the circuit of the mountain reoion, 
the traveller may retrace his steps to Bethlehem, and, taking 
the cars at Littleton, may return home by any of the various 
routes hereafter described. Or he may proceed through tho 
lovely valley of the Pemigewasset to Plymouth, and thence by 
cars to Boston, visiting Lake Winnipisaukee on the way. 

We propose now to give the more detailed account of tho 
routes to the White Mountain region. 



ROUTES EROM NEW YORK TO BOSTON. 

L New York to Boston, via Stonington and Providence ; 
on Long Island Sound by Steamboat to Stonington ; thence to 
Providence and Boston by rail, arriving at Boston at 5 o'clock, 
A. M. Fare $4.00 

The Steamers Plymouth Bock and C. Yanderbilt, leave 
their pier at Netv-York late in the afternoon, making the pas- 
sage to Stonington in seven hours, and in less time, with favor- 
able tides. These boats are universally acknowledged to be the 
safest, most comfortable, and quickest upon the sound, and the 
Stonington route is deservedly popular. The Sound boats all 
follow the same channel, and consequently, the same views are 
presented from all. At one o'clock, A. M., a safe arrival is 
made at Stonington, where a train is in waiting for the immedi- 
ate conveyance of passengers to Boston. 

Stonington is a busy place, engaged to a considerable extent 
in the whale and other fisheries. Its hardy sailors are to be 
found all oyer the world, and its ships are generally guccessful. 
8* 



90 WHITE MOUNTAIN GUIDE. 

ThencG the road passes through the entire State of Rhode Is- 
land in a diagonal direction. The towns of Westerly, Charles- 
tovrn, South Kingstown, North Kingstown, East Greenwich, and 
Warwick, lie along the route. Khode Island is filled with 
manufacturing villages, whose names it is not necessary to give. 
Wherever there is a stream powerful enough to turn a water 
wheel, there will quickly be found a little mill, the centre of a 
hamlet. No State in the Union is so industrious in proportion 
to its gize. Small, but smart, is " Little Rhody." 

Providence is one of its capitals, for, like her sister State, 
Connecticut, and for a similar reason, Rhode Island has two 
capitals, and is equally well governed. Providence is the 
wealthiest city in New England, according to its size, with pos- 
sibly the exception of New Bedford. If its public spirit were 
commensurate with its wealth, it would be the handsomest city 
in its section of the country. But it has no City Hall, the 
State House is an inferior building, and is used as a Court 
House during the recess of the General Assembly, and the 
Churches are inexpensive structures of clumsy architecture, 
It contains some elegant private residences upon the high land 
on the easterly side of Providence river, where also are situated, 
commanding a fine and wide prospect, the buildings of Brown 
University. A celebrated School, under the direction of the 
Society of Friends, and an Asylum for the Insane are also lo' 
cated here. The United States Government has recently erect 
ed a substantial granite building, for the uses of the Post Office 
Custom House, and the United States Courts, furnishing accom 
modations for these purposes, not surpassed in the country 
Nowhere in the United States are the streets kept in so good 
order, or so well lighted as in Providence, and no place is more 
orderly and quiet. On a bright day the city presents a bril- 
liant appearance. Elegant equipages fill the streets, and the 
public promenades are crowded with throngs of pedestrians. 
A great amount of manufacturing is carried on in iron, steam- 



WHITE M0UNTAT5 GUIDE. 91 

engines, screws, jewelry, and various articles of ornament and 
use. A visit to the different manufacturing establishments is 
full of curious interest. Connections may here be made by 
rail with Worcester, Hartford and Bristol, and by boat with 
Fall River and Newport. Various places of resort are to be 
found on either shore of Xarragansett Bay. 

In the early morning the train rushes through Pawtucket, a 
bustling village, the seat of Bunnell's famous Print Works ; 
Attleborough, a place of extensive manufacturing in jewelry ; 
Mansfield, where connection may be made with Taunton and 
New Bedford; Foxboro', Sharon, Canton, where a massive 
viaduct crosses the county road ; West Eoxbury, and Roxbury, 
to Boston, arriving at 5J o'clock, A. M. A comfortable nap 
and a good breakfast may be enjoyed at the Winthrop, Adams, 
Marlboro', Treraont, Kevere, Parker, or American House, 
before the cars start for the North. 

It is needless in this connection, to speak of the numberless 
attractions of the city of Boston. Its splendid Common, its 
spacious State House, its well kept streets, its elegant and com- 
fortable dwellings, its fine stores, its hospitable hotels, its large 
libraries, its cultivated society, are all too well known to demand 
a word of commendation. Its soil, too, is redolent of liberty. 
Griffin's Wharf, near which the Bostonians made their Tea with 
the harbor for a tea-pot ; State street, the scene of the Boston 
Massacre ; the great Tree on the Common, beneath whose 
branches the citizens met to concert their plans ; Brattle St. 
Church, with a cannon ball imbedded in its side, are suggestive 
of the great struggle of the Revolution, whose first beginnings 
were made here. Bunker Hill Monument is but a mile distant ; 
Cambridge, with Harvard University, the Washington Elm and 
Headquarters, and Mt. Auburn Cemetery, is half an hour's 
ride ; Dorchester Heights still show the ruins of the old fortifi- 
cations, which made the city untenable for the British troops, 
while Concord and Lexington are wifhin visiting distance with- 



92 WHITE MOUNTAIN GUIDE. 

out great delay. The city of the Puritans, though a city of 
** notions," is still the chief city of New England and has well 
earned the title of the " Athens of America." 

II. New York to Boston, via Newport and Fall River, on 
Long Island Sound by steamboat, from Fall River by rail, 
arriving at Boston at 5:30, A. M. 

By this route you leave New York at the usual time by either 
of the fine steamers of the Fall River line — the Metropolis, or 
the Empire State. This line of travel extends through the 
whole length of Long Island Sound, and a part of Narraganset 
Bay. The distance is but ten or fifteen miles farther, the time 
and fare the same. The advantage of this route is that oppor- 
tunity is afforded for a good night's rest on board the boat, and 
for the passage north from Boston without material detention. 
The disadvantage would be for passengers liable to sea-sickness 
that there is more open sea to be traversed, and Point Judith, 
with the "much-sounding" waves that beat upon it to be 
doubled. The boat arrives at Newport, an hour or two before 
dawn. This far-famed resort for pleasure-seekers requires no 
comment from us. The lono;-rollino; surf and the white beeches, 
the ship-breaking rocks on the indented shore, the wide stretch 
of the Atlantic, are things not to be described. The dilletante 
and elegant may spend their days here in fashionable ennui, 
but the lover of nature will gratefully live in the midst of these 
enchanting scenes. The climate is soft and salubrious through 
the whole year. Excellent hotels open their hospitable doors. 
The facilities for sea-bathing are sufficiently numerous. The 
student of military science can visit Fort Adams, thought 
impregnable till the use of steam in war vessels has made 
fortifications of this kind useless. The antiquarian can puzzle 
his brains over the " Old Stone Mill," and be no wiser for his 
labors. The geologist will find a coal formation to explore and 
explain. The historical student may gratify his tastes by 



vrniTE MorxTAix guide. 93 

Eearching the traces of reTolationary coDflicts, and the vmts of 
the Northmen. Subjects of study and pleasure are in eyery' 
direction. 

Bristol is a maritime town engaged in considerable trade. 
Fall River, where the cars are in waiting, is a manufacturing 
town, of some importance on Mount Hope Bay. Mount Hope 
is seen in the immediate neighborhood. Beyond, the route is 
through several villages, the most important of which are Mid- 
dleboro',— junction with Cape Cod EaHroad.— ^est Bridge- 
water,— junction with Plymouth Railroad,— Braintree, Quincy, 
aod Dorchester. The cars arrive at Boston between 5 and 6 
clock, A. M., in season to obtain breakfast and go North 
at 7:30, from the different depots. 

in. Xzw York to Boston, via Xew London and Norwich • 
on Long Island Sound to AUyn's Point ; thence by rail through 
^Torcester, arriving at Boston about 5J, A. M. 

The commodious Steamers CoMMONWEALTn and Cova:cncuT 
leave their pier in Xew York at 5, P. M. These boats have 
few equals for elegance or comfort. 

Starting from Xew York late in the afternoon, they make 
the passage through the East River into Long Island Sound 
before sunset. The other boats for Boston also start about the 
same time and pass over the same scenes. As they pa«s on 
the one side, the quiet suburbs of Brooklyn, Williamsburg and 
Green Point, and on the other the busy piers and streets of 
Xew lork; the green islands, BlackwelFs, Randall's, and 
others, which lie like emeralds upon the soft bosom of the river • 
the changing scenery, from urban bustle and activity, to rural 
stillness and solitude, the passenger on board will enjoy the 
calmness of the hour and the varied pleasure of the panoramic 
view. Soon the dangers of Hurlgate are passed, the sun sinks 
below the city, rapidly left behind, and the long reach of the 
Sound to the mouth of Thames River is to be sailed over in 



94 IVUITE MOUNTAIN GUIDE. 

darkness. Half au hour after midnight, the landing at New 
London is safely reached. A moment's stop to leave passengers 
and the course is continued up the river to Allyn's Point. 
New London is a bustling city, engaged to a considerable extent 
in the whale fishery. The Arctic ship Eesolute, abandoned by 
the English in Lancaster Sound, was encountered in Baffin's 
Bay by a New London whaler and safely brought into this port. 
The Griswold House, formerly a favorite resort for summer 
travellers, has just been destroyed by fire. Good accommoda- 
tions are doubtless to be had. The Pequot House, a milo 
below, is well known. Fort Trumbull, near the Griswold 
House, needs nothing but a garrison to make it formidable 
to an enemy. At Allyn's Point, about 125 miles from New 
York, the passengers leave the steamers and take the cars for 
Worcester. 

Norwich is an active place, the seat of considerable trade, 
and a pleasant inland city. A number of small villages in 
Eastern Connecticut, and of manufacturing towns in Massachu- 
setts, lie along the course of this railroad, being of no particular 
interest to the traveller. At four o'clock, A. M., the cars 
arrive at Worcester. If the tourist designs passing on to 
Concord, N. H., and thence up to the mountains, he will expe- 
rience a detention of two hours and a half, which can well be 
passed in a comfortable nap, either at the Lincoln, or the Bay 
State House. Both hotels are convenient to the depot, and 
unexceptionable, first class houses in every respect. 

Worcester is the most enterprising city in New England, 
second only to Boston. It is well laid out, and its wide streets, 
lined with elegant private residences, stores and public build- 
ings, invite the pedestrian to an early stroll. He will notice 
Horticultural Hall, Mechanics' Hall, a stately and imposing 
building, not surpassed in Massachusetts. The Female Col- 
lege occupies an elevated site in the southern part of the city. 
The College of the Holy Cross is still more distant. The Oread 



vVUITE MOUNTAIN GUIDE. 95 

Institute, a seminary of the highest order for young ladies, en- 
joys a deservedly wide reputation. The population of Worces. 
ter is over 20,000, and is rapidly increasing. 

The cars, however, proceed directly on to Boston, arriving 
there at about the same time as by the other routes. 

IV. New York to Boston, by railroad, via New Haven, 
Hartford, Springfield and Worcester. 

The New York and Boston Express line— land route— ig 
formed by the New York & New Haven, New Haven, Hartford 
& Springfield, Western and Boston & Worcester Railroads. 
The cars leave New York at 27th and 32nd streets at 8, A. M., 
and 3, P. M. The time to Boston is nine hours, and the fare 
$5.00. The cars proceed directly to Worcester Junction 
without change or detention. From Springfield to Worcester 
Junction, the Western Eailroad passes through the thrifty, 
manufacturing and agricultural towns of central Massachusetts! 
Of these the principal are Palmer, Warren, West Brook- 
field, Brookfield and Spencer. The railroad stations on this 
road are the best in New England. To this remark, that at 
Worcester Junction is most decidedly an exception. The one 
storied, inconvenient, incommodious building at that point is a 
disgrace to the wealthy corporations, which, with unusual parsi- 
mony, have furnished this miserable shelter for the multitudes 
of passengers who are daily obliged to make it their temporary 
stopping place. The large travelling public demand better and 
worthier accommodations. 

With slight detention, however, the cars proceed from Wor- 
cester, directly to Boston, where they arrive about 5 and 12 
o'clock, P. M. 

From Boston to the mountains there are, as before indicated, 
three distinct routes. 



96 WHITE MOUNTAIN GUIDE. 

I. BOSTON TO GORHAM, N. H., via PORTLAND. 

It is only a few years that the valleys of the Eastern and 
Northern slopes of the Mountains have been open to travellers. 
Until the Atlantic & St. Lawrence Railroad, which connects 
Portland and Montreal, was completed through Northern New- 
Hampshire, some seven years ago, they were inaccessible to the 
tourists for pleasure, and their charms were unsuspected. 

The forms of the mountains are bolder, and the slopes moro 
abrupt, on the Eastern and Northern sides. There is nioro 
beauty around North Conway and in the Pemigewasset valley ; 
but the most satisfactory impressions of mountain ruggedness, 
strength, and sublimity are gained from the views that surround 
GoRHAM, N. H., and " The Glen." 

One can reach the great White Mountain range from Boston 
more speedily and with more ease by the Portland route than 
by any other. The traveller leaves Boston for Portland in the 
morning, by either the Eastern Railroad, or the Boston & 
Maine. He reaches Portland at noon, and has half an hour 
for dinner in the ample and commodious Station House of the 
Atlantic & St. Lawrence, or " Grand Trunk," Railway. At 1 
o'clock he takes the cars on this road, and at 5, P. M., is land- 
ed in front of the Alpine House, in Gorham, N. H. This 
Hotel is one of the largest and best in the whole mountain re- 
gion, and has been for some years under the charge of Mr. John 
R. Hitchcock. There is ample time in the long summer days 
for a stroll or a ride, from this Hotel after supper, along the 
banks of the noble Androscoggin river and in full view of the 
highest summits of the White Hills and the great Mount Mori- 
ah range. Or if the traveller's time is very limited, he can 
take a stage from the door of the Alpine House, on the arrival 
of the cars at five o'clock, and in two hours can reach the 
**Glen House," eight miles distant, — a spacious, excellent 
and well known Hotel at the base of Mount Washington, under 
tho charo;o of Mr. J. M. Thompson. 



WHITE MOUNTAIN GUIDE. 97 

Thus, by this Portland route, one can reach Gorham and its 
charming scenery in ten hours from Boston, with time for dinner 
and rest ; or can arrive at the very base of JMount "Washing- 
ton in twelve hours. The cars of the Grand Trunk Kailway 
from Portland to the Mountains are of the most commodious 
kind. The road is the wide, or five feet and a half gauge. It 
is very rarely that the trains fail to keep time like a chronome- 
ter; and the conductors are celebrated for their gentlemanly 
readiness to impart full information to passengers concerning 
the mountain routes and scenery. 

There is, also, communication by steamboat between Boston 
and Portland. Leaving Boston about seven in the evening, 
Portland is reached at five in the morning. Then by the first 
train on the Grand Trunk Bailway, the traveller arrives at 
Gorham at 11, A. M., and at the Glen House, if he desires, 
by stage in season for dinner. The fare from Boston to Gorham 
by a through ticket on the cars is $4 ; by steamboat and cars, 
$3.00. The distance from Boston to Portland by the shorter 
of the two railroad routes is 106 miles ; from Portland to Gor 
ham, N. H., 91 miles. 

On the route from Portland to Gorham, there is nothing 
especially attractive in the scenery, — nothing that promises or 
hints the grandeur in reserve, until the train reaches 

Bryant's Pond. This lake in miniature, the source of the 
Little Androscoggin river, charmingly set among hills several 
hundred feet in height, is twenty-nine miles from Gorham. 
The pond and the track of the railroad lie about seven hundred 
feet above the sea level. 

The next point of interest is Bethel, the chief town of Ox- 
ford County, Maine, and probably the loveliest village of that 
State. It is twenty-one miles from Gorham. Travellers are as 
yet but little acquainted with its attractions. Bethel is, ia 
truth, the North Conway of the Eastern side of the Hills. If 
the terminus of the Railroad were here, or if passengers were 
9 



98 WHITE MOUNTAIN GUIDE. 

compelled to leave the cars at this point, and take stages to 
Gorhara and the Glen, Bethel would be a dangerous rival to 
North Conway, and the ride from Bethel to Mount Washington 
would be pronounced superior, on some accounts, in charm to the 
famous ride from Conway through Bartlett to the Notch. 

The meadows of Bethel are very lovely ; and on a clear 
afternoon, when the golden light falls aslant upon the fresh 
grass, throwing out long shadows from the trees, and the eye fol- 
lows northward the narrowing line of hills along the course of tho 
Androscoggin, and catches the sharp edges of the great White 
Mountain range sweeping across and closing up the vista, it is 
difficult to conceive where an artist can find a more tempting 
picture in New-England. There arc several hills, too, in and 
near the village, easily accessible, around which the most fasci- 
nating panoramas of forests, hills, rivers, lakes, meadows, and 
mountain majesty are displayed. Bethel will, we predict, at 
Bome time not very far distant, be sought as a boardiug-placo 
during the summer by those who love charming scenery with 
more quiet than the prominent White Mountain routes and 
hotels afford. 

There is a comfortable hotel in Bethel, kept by Mr. Ciiand- 
LER. Travellers can procure teams from him to visit places of 
interest in the neighborhood. There is a delightful drive of 
twelve miles to the grand water-sculpture of the Albany Basins. 
Eighteen miles in the opposite direction one finds the Kumford 
Falls. The road to these Falls is excellent, the scenery on the 
way very lovely, and the Falls themselves are hardly inferior to 
any in New-England. The full tide of the Androscoggin 
makes a descent here of one hundred and sixty feet, in three 
pitches, and within the space of a quarter of a mile. There 
is a fine excursion also from Bethel to the Speckled Mountain 
Notch, or Bear Puver Notch, as it is sometimes called. The 
farther end of this Notch is about eighteen miles from Bethel. 
The road for twelve miles — part of the way up tho valley of 



,.'iVNTiL,.>«*.^^ ■. f'. ■- 



' ^ 







■ — i«X<4ul* 



100 WHITE MOUNTAIN GUIDE. 

the Bear River — is excellent, and very good accommodation is 
found there at the " Poplar Tavern." 

The " Screw-Auger Fall," at Fanning's Mills, and the ride 
up through the jaws of the Notch will well repay the time which 
the journey requires. Starting early in the morning from Beth- 
el, the excursion and return can easily be made in a day. Or 
it will be practicable to push through from the Bear River 
Notch to Umbagog Lake in another day, and thence to I>ixvillo 
Notch, of which we shall speak bye and bye. The trout fishing 
on this route is probably unsurpassed in New England. 

From Bethi'l to the Station in Gorham, the scenery through 
which the cars pass is very fascinating. Three villages, charm- 
ingly located to increase the beauty of the landscape, lie in full 
view from the train, — West Bethel, Gilead, and Shelburne. 
About a mile from the Station in Gilead, the boundary line of 
Maine is passed, and the traveller is among the New Hampshire 
hills. Especially fortunate are those who see this scenery for 
*he first time in the rich light of a clear summer afternoon. 
The sight of the brilliant meadows spotted with elms ; of the 
graceful curves of the Androscoggin, studded with islands; of 
the brawny hills that guard it, among which the train flies along 
a twisted track ; and, now and then, of the long, firmly cut lines 
of the White Mo-antain ridge shooting across the north, until in 
Shelburne, Madison, and the x>eak of Jefierson, and the bulk 
of Washington spring out for a few minutes in full view, almost 
banishes the fatigue of a hot day's ride, and prepares the visitor 
for the pleasures in store after his arrival in Gorham, at the 
Alpine House. 

The route through the mountain region from this point is 
described on the 5th and following pages. 

But we must here speak of two excursions to other points of 
interest connected directly with the White Mountains on their 
eastern side. The first is to 

Lancaster, N. H. 

This is the shire town of Coos County, and is set amid some 



WHITE MOUNTAIN GUIDE. 101 

of tbo noblest and loveliest scenery of Xew England. The 
wbole range of the White Mountains, the great Franconia hills, 
and many of the Green Mountains are in full view from some 
of its streets. Then, too, the Connecticut meadows are among 
the finest here which the river can boast in its wbole extent. 
The drives in the neighborhood, on either side the Connecticut, 
are unsurpassed, probably, in New England ; for the roads are 
excellent, and the views are very various. And a spacious 
Hotel has just been completed there, which will aflford attractive 
accommodation to travellers. There are few points among, or 
near, the mountains, where so much quiet pleasure could be ex- 
perienced in a visit of a few weeks, as in Lancaster. 

There is a stage from Gorbam to Lancaster, passing through 
the grand scenery of Jefferson. The distance is 24 miles. 
One can also take the train in the forenoon, or afternoon, from 
Gorham, reach Northumberland in an hour, take a stage 
thence to Lancaster, some ten miles distant. 

We must also call attention to the scenery of the 
DixviLLE Notch. 

The Dixville bills lie in the extreme northern portion of New 
Ilampshire, some sixty miles beyond the Washington range. 
It is very seldom that a tourist strays so far from the regular 
routes ; but the geologists have long been acquainted with the 
interesting scenery of the region, and have called attention to 
it in reports of their surveys. Dr. Jackson, in his great work 
on the Geology of New Hampshire, speaks of the Dixville 
Notch as more Alpine in its character than any other pass of 
our New England mountains, and predicts that its grandeur 
will yet make it a place of large resort. 

Since the completion of the Atlantic and St. Lawrence Rail- 
road, it has become easily accessible and should be more widely 
known. One can leave Boston at 7 o'clock in the morning, 
and sleep the same night within 10 miles of it, reaching it 
early in the forenoon of the second day. Or travellers can 
\)* 



302 WHITE MOUNTAIN GUIDE. 

take the cars at 11 from the Alpine House in Gorbara, and in 
an hour and a half Le landed at North Stratford, which lies on 
the Connecticut River, thirty-six miles from Gorham. The 
Railroad ride is very pleasant. The track lies along the narrow 
and winding valley of the Androscoggin, hemmed in by grand 
and gloomy hills, until it bends toward the more cheerful Con- 
necticut. Then it winds up around the base of the singular, 
bleached, twin cones, called the Stratford Peaks. 

At North Stratford a wagon stage is in readiness, on tho 
arrival of the noon and evening trains, to convey passengers to 
Colebrook. If there is no stage, an extra wagon can easily be 
hired. The ride to Colebrook up the Connecticut, is really 
charming. Frequently a view of a broad intervale, with the 
glittering river sweeping through it in a lordly curve, will make 
a man regret that the slow pace of the horses could not be re- 
tarded, in order that he might more leisurely feast his eyes. 

Colebrook is quite a flourishing village on the New Hamp- 
shire side of the river, and lying in the eastern shadow of a 
massive and majestic mountain which the inhabitants call 
Monadnoc. This hill lies just beyond the river in Vermont, 
and is really quite imposing by its bulk and glorious verdure. 
It must spring more than two thousand feet from the stream at 
its base. One arrives in Colebrook usually about four in the 
afternoon. Dixville Notch is only ten miles distant. But 
there is no public house near it, and it is best to pass the night 
at the inn kept, we believe, by Mr. Cummings in Colebrook, 
and called the Monadnoc House. If a person before going 
there will look at the situation of the village on the map, and 
observe that it is within almost a stone's throw of Canada, he 
will doubtless be most pleasantly disappointed with the substan- 
tial accommodations furnished by the brisk and obliging land- 
lord. One had better leave the hotel about seven the next 
morning for the Notch and give the whole day to the excursion. 
The road is very good, but rises steadily tho whole distance ; so 



WniTE MOUNTAIN GUIDE. 



10«3 



that the ten miles demands three hours' riding. Travellers will 
be much struck with the general excellence of the land along 
the way. It is the best farming region of the Granite State ; 
and the fields are so free from stones, that it is really impossible 
to have stone walls for boundaries. The last two miles of the 
ride wind through the grandest forest one will find in his moun- 
tain travels. Every variety of tree is represented along the 
way, and generally of much larger growths than are met before. 
A person will begin to doubt whether there is any mountain 
magnificence near, so closely is the road shut in by the forest. 
Suddenly the heavy walls of the Dixville range begin to show 
themselves ahead. And while one is admiring their dark and 
grave sides of shadowed foliage, wondering where the pass he 
is in search of can open, a turn of the road to the right brings 
the wagon in front of the bare and savage jaws of the Notch, at 
its western entrance. 






^X^^ 



,^^^%J. 





The first view of it is very impressive. It opens like a Ti- 
tanic gateway to some region of vast and mysterious desolation. 
The pass is much narrower than either of the more famed ones 
in the White Mountains, and through its whole extent of a mile 



104 WHITE MOUNTAIN GUIDE. 

and a quarter, Las more the cliaracter of a Notch. One can- 
not but feel that the mountain was rent apart by some volcanic 
convulsion, and the two sides left to tell the story by their cor- 
respondence and the naked dreariness of the pillars of rotting 
rock that face each other. There is little more than room for a 
road at the bottom ; and the walls slope away from it so sharply 
that considerable outlay is required from the State, every year, 
to clear it of the stones and earth which the frosts and rain roll 
into it every winter and spring. 

No description can impart an adequate conception of the 
mournful grandeur of the decaying cliffs of mica slate which 
overhang the way. They shoot up in most singular and fantas- 
tic shapes, and vary in height from four hundred to eight 
hundred feet. A few centuries ago, the pass must have been 
very wild, but the pinnacles of rock which give the scenery such 
an Alpine character, are rapidly crumbling away. Some have 
decayed to half their original height. And the side walls of 
the Notch are strewn with debris which the ice and storms have 
pried and gnawed from the decrepit cliffs. The whole aspect 
is one of ruin and wreck. The creative forces seem to have re- 
treated from the spot, and abandoned it to the sport of the 
destructive elements. One might entertain the thought that 
some awful crime had been committed there, for which the 
region was blasted by a lasting curse. The only life in the 
Notch belongs to the raspberry vines. It seems to be the para- 
dise of this delicious fruit. 

One should climb the highest pinnacle which juts out from 
the southerly wall of the pass, and stands about eight hundred 
feet above the road. It is no easy task to keep the footing in 
the steep ascent over the loose and treacherous ruins of slate 
that strew the way. Hands and feet are necessary. We once 
knew a company of gentlemen who would have been discouraged 
once or twice, were it not that the lady of the party proved so 
sure footed and steady a climber, and laughed at difficulties- 



WniTE MOUNTAIN GUIDE. 105 

She belongs to Boston and is a model traveller. It will be 
found, however, that the view from the summit repays the toil 
of the scramble. It is no small trial for weak nerves to walk 
out upon the side of the Notch upon this cliff, not more than six 
feet wide and eight hundred feet sheer down. No part of the 
ride up Mount Washington makes the head swim so giddily. 
From it one can easily see into Maine, Vermont, and Canada. 
Only a few miles east, lies Lake Umbagog, where the moose 
congregate in the evening to stand up to their neck in water 
and " fight flies," as the guides express it. About ten miles 
north is Lake Connecticut, a beautiful sheet of water, mother 
of the noble river which is the pride of New England. One 
might spend a few days very profitably in exploring the novel- 
ties of the districts that lie around the Notch. 

After about an hour's stay upon the pinnacle, one should 
descend and ride through the pass to a flume just beyond its 
eastern gateway. A more interesting ride can hardly be found 
in the whole White Moutain region. The Notch is crescent in 
its shape, which adds to the effect of height, by concealing the 
whole extent at a single glance. Everywhere, as you ride 
through, are these sad and sullen clifFo, the monuments of a 
majesty fast passing away. 

How charming, then, the surprise, in passing through the 
Notch eastward, to ride out from its spiky teeth of slate into a 
most lovely plain, called "The Clear Stream Meadows," cm- 
bosomed in mountains luxuriantly wooded to the crown. It is 
something like descending from the desolation of the Alps into 
the foliage and beauty of Italy. There is but one house near. 
But the graves of the earliest settler and his wife are there, 
fenced off rudely, and overgrown with the tall weeds which 
nature wears for them. How many of the great and wealthy 
of our land will find such a cemetery ? A mountain range for a 
monument ; a luxuriant valley for a grave ; such silence to 
sleep in as no Mount Auburn can assure, and their story told 
to visitants from far off portions of the land ! 



106 WniTE MOUNTAIN GUIDE. 

Returning through the whole length of the Notch, Colebrook 
is reached again by supper-time. The next morning, one can 
take the stage-wagon to North Stratford, and thence reach 
Gorham by cars early in the forenoon. Thus the whole jour- 
ney from the Alpine House, or Glen House, to Dixville Notch, 
and back again, can be made in two days; and nearly the 
whole of one day will be passed in the Notch. It is also one 
of the cheapest excursions which the mountain region aflfords. 

WiLLOUGHBY LaKE, 

should also be mentioned. This is a small sheet of water, six 
miles in length, and from one to two in width, charmingly set 
between steep granite mountains in the Northern part of Ver- 
mont. There is a fine hotel on the border of the lake kept by 
Alonzo Bemis. Passengers can leave Gorham about noon by 
cars, stop at the Island Pond House for dinner and take the 
stage thence for Willoughby Lake, which will be reached by 
tea time. A few days can be most delightfully passed there. 
More will be said of this lake in another connection. 

Island Pond is the " half-way" station between Portland 
and Montreal. It is a charming spot. The pond is directly in 
front of the Station House. In high water, the Clyde, the regu- 
lar outlet, pours its water into Memphremagog, and thence into 
the St. Lawrence, while an outlet at the other end leads into 
the Connecticut and thence into Long Island Sound. To trace 
up the Clyde by a canoe would make a pleasant excursion. 
Mr. Wuitehouse, the accommodating landlord of the hotel, 
will furnish all the necessary accommodations. The fishing all 
around is excellent. 

PORTLAND, ME., TO CONWAY, N. H. 

Distance to Conway, 58 miles. Fare, $2.50. The route to 
Conway, via Portland and Gorham, Me., was very attractive 
and much patronized before the Atlantic & St. Lawrence Uail- 
road was opened to Gorham, N. H. Since then the steamboat 
which runs over Sebago Lake has been withdrawn for want of 



WniTE MOUNTAIN GUIDE. 107 

patronage and the route has fallen into comparative disuse. 
Persons, however, wishing to spend time upon the journey will 
find this a very pleasant ride. 

The tourist leaves Portland by the cars of the Portland & 
Kennebeck Railroad at 7:15, A. M. A ride of half an hour 
brings you to Gorham, Me., ten miles distant, where you take 
the coach for Conway. At Livingston (seventeen miles from 
Gorham,) you cross the Saco, and thence winding along its 
banks for eleven miles the 

Great Palls are reached. These constitute one of the great 
attractions of the route and are said to bo *' unsurpassed in 
grandeur and sublimity." Twelve miles farther on we reach 

Fryeburg, the seat of a flourishing Academy. Here are 
situated " Lovell's Pond," famed for an Indian battle, and 
Jockey Cap, Stark's, and Pine Hills. A ride of eight miles 
fiirther brings us to Conway about 7 o'clock, P. M. The stage 
leaves Conway for Portland, daily, early in the morning. 

Fine distant views of the mountains arc gained all along the 
route. Conway and the route thence to the Notch will be 
spoken of hereafter. 



II. BOSTON TO AVIIITE MOUNTAIN NOTCH, via DOVER, 
ALTON BAY, CENTRE HARBOR AND CONWAY. 

Distance from Boston to Alton Bay, 96 miles. 

The cars leave the station house of the Boston & Maine 
Railroad every morning at 7:30. At Dover, connection is made 
with the Cochecho Railroad for Alton Bay. This was originally 
christened " Merrymceting Bay." The hotel, depot, and steam- 
boat wharf constitute almost the only buildings at this place. 
Various Indian relics have been found near here, and are in 
the possession of Capt. Sanborn. Mr. Coffin, the landlord of 
the Hotel, has at all times every convenience for riding and 
fishing. 



108 WHITE MOUNTAIN GUIDE. 

The Steamer Doter, a new and elegant Lake steamer, has 
been enlarged during the past winter, and is now 132 feet in 
length, and moves with great rapidity and steadiness. From 
Alton Bay the steamer will convey you to Wolf borough, ten 
miles, and thence to Centre Harbor, twenty miles farther. A 
good dinner may be obtained on board the boat, or at the Sen- 
ter House. The Boat reaches Centre Harbor about 1, P. M. 
From Centre Harbor you can proceed directly to Conway, as 
will be described hereafter. The advantage of this route is the 
additional distance passed on Lake "Winnipisaukee. 

The Lake and the route from Centre Harbor will be spoken 
of hereafter. 



III. BOSTON TO WHITE MOUNTAINS via CONCORD, N. H. 

The traveller leaves Boston for Concord, either by the cars of 
the Boston 6c Maine Bailroad, from Haymarket Square, or of 
the Lowell Kailroad, from Causeway street. Should he take 
the former route, he will pass through Somerville, Maiden, and 
Melrose, all pretty villages in the suburbs of Boston ; South 
Beading, where connections may be made with Salem and New- 
buryport ; Beading and Wilmington, of no particular note ; 
Wibuington Junction, where the track crosses the Salem and 
Lowell Kailroad ; Andover, the seat of Phillips' Academy, and 
the celebrated Theological Seminary, of the Trinitarian Con- 
gregationalists. 

Lawrence. This is a manufacturing city, recently built on 
the Merrimack river, ten miles below Lowell, and similar in 
character to that place. It contains manufactories of cotton 
and woolen goods, shawls, duck, iron, &c. It is a promising 
place. Here the Manchester & Lawrence Kaikoad diverges 
from the Boston & Maine, and passes on through Methuen, 
Salem, N. H., Windham, Derry, and Londonderry, to Man- 
chester, where a union is effected with the train on the Concord 
Railroad from below. 



WHITE BIOUNTAIN GUIDE. 109 

On leaving Boston by the Boston & Lowell Railroad, the 
traveller will pass through SoxMerville, West Medford, Win- 
chester, WoBURN— suburban villages, much sought for by busi- 
ness men for a quiet, rural residence — Wilmington, and 
Billerica to 

Lowell. This is a place famous through the whole country 
for its extensive manufactures. It is built near Pawtucket Falls, 
upon the Merrimack. A wide canal, whose massive masonry is 
a remarkable instance of the power of persevering industry, 
conveys the necessary water to the wheels, that carry the ma- 
chinery of the mills. Carpets, cotton and woolen goods, prints, 
and other similar articles are manufactured, employing a capital 
of $11,000,000 in public corporations, and 13,000 laborers, 
besides the large number engaged in private enterprise. Lowell 
is a brisk city, and has enjoyed a great degree of prosperity. 

Nashua is a thriving, bustling manufacturing town at the 
confluence of the Nashua and Merrimack rivers. It presents 
no objects of particular interest. The Pearl Street, Central, 
and Indian Head Houses are old hotels of established character! 

Reed's Ferry, or Merrimack, is the site of a fine academy, 
which stands near the railroad track, on a high bluff overlooking 
a wide expanse of country. Gofp's Falls are in the town of 
Bedford, and are to be seen from the ear window. Here the 
road crosses the Merrimack, and the train soon arrives at 

Manchester, a very enterprising city, almost wholly devoted 
to manufacturing. Here the Manchester & Lawrence Railroad 
intersects. Both corporations, now united under one manage- 
ment, are profitably and energetically conducted by J. A. 
G-iLMORE, who, in all matters of business, is a host in himself. 
Opposite Manchester may be noticed Point Raymond, and the 
Unconoonucs, two round hills in the interior. Manchester is 
well planned, and is evidently determined to distance all com- 
petitors in the State, in enterprise and vigorous growth. The 
Amoskeag Falls are a mile above the city, and furnish a fine 
10 



JJQ WniTE MOUNTAIN GUIDE. 

water privilege. A short distance farther, on the right, may be 

seen the ncw°Reforni School, quite an imposing edifice of brick. 

Martin's Ferry is a station to accommodate some village not 

visible from the cars. At Hooksett, the cars again cross the 

river. On the left may be observed a high, conical hill, called 

the Pinnacle, rising abruptly from the plain. From its summit 

may be seen an extensive and charming prospect. On the right 

arc the Hooksett Falls, a pleasant object, as the white foam 

appears amid the rapidly descending waters. Eight miles 

farther is 

Concord, 

the capital of New Hampshire. This may afford interest suffi- 
cient to detain the traveller for a short time, while he exammes 
the lar-e and well conducted Prison of solid granite ; or the 
State House of similar material, chaste in its design and perfect 
in its finish; or the Asylum for the Insane, with beautiful 
m-ounds and a commanding site. A fine view of the city may 
be obtained from the cupola of the State House. Around the 
town are pleasant drives skirting the shores of Pennacook Lake 
or Lonrr Pond, Turkey Pond and the river. A beautiful pros- 
pect m^y be obtained near sunset from Point Pleasant on the 
bic^h bluffs of the Merrimack. Not far from the village on the 
road to St. Paul's School, is erected a monument to the memory 
of some of the early martyrs to the - bloudy salvages" who 
infested the region. Elsewhere is pointed out the location of an 
old fort ; and buildings, still tenanted, bear the marks of both 
ball and bullet. The Methodist Biblical Institute is in the 
buildinrr known as the Old North Church, for a long time the 
only church in the town. A visit to the numerous cotton fac- 
tories, as well as to the large flouring mill recently erected at 
Fisherville, may serve as an agreeable terminus to an hour's ride. 
There are three fine and commodious Hotels in Concord :— 
The Phenix, by Corning dc Clark, the Eagle by Dumas & 
Norton, and the American by John Gass. These are not any- 



WHITE MOUNTAIN GUIDE. Ill 

where excelled for the accommodations they afford the traveller 
or the conveniences they place around him. 

The amount of railroad building, work, furniture, etc., here 
visible, is probably superior to any in places of even twice its 
size, throughout the country. It is the Depot of five distinct 
railways, and, at the hours of half-past ten and three, when the 
great trains, northward and southward, are made up, a scene of 
apparently irremedible confusion is presented to the spectator, 
not uufrequently adorned with quite novel and amusing inci- 
dents. The Coach Manufactories of the Messrs. Abbots* and 
the Messrs. Downings' are not far from the Depot, and are 
worthy of visit. The last train from Boston remains hero over 
night, and thus is afforded the tourist his last opportunity for 
obtaining any articles he may be in need of during his journey. 

From Concord, four distinct routes to the mountain region, 
present themselves to the traveller. One is over the Northern, 
and the other three over the Montreal Railroad. 

1. Concord to Franconia, via Northern, Connecticut & 
Passumpsie, and White Mountains Piailroad. Distance 140 
miles; from Boston, 212. Fare from Boston to Franconia, 
$8.00. From Concord, $5.50. Time from Boston, 12 hours. 

The Northern Railroad extends from Concord to White River 
Junction, following the course of the Merrimack as far as 
Franklin, when it crosses to the Connecticut over the high lands 
of central New Hampshire. The road is admirably conducted, 
and furnishes a favorite route. At Fisherville, the road crosses the 
Contoocook River, and Dustin's Island, so named from itsbeins: 
the camping ground of a party of Indians, from whom a captive 
woman, Mrs. Dustin, made her escape in colonial times. Just 
before reaching Franklin, the traveller will notice upon the right 
of the track, the former residence of the late Hon. Daniel 
Webster. It is a comfortable, old fashioned house, among the 
trees, and just the place to furnish repose to the statesman, 
jaded in the confiicts of party and of the forum. Franklin is a 



X12 WniTE MOUNTAIN GUIDE. 

busy village. At Potter Place, may be seen on tbe left of tbo 
track, Mt. Kearsarge, in Salisbury and Wilmot, two thousand 
four hundred and sixty-one feet high ; on the right, the Ragged 
Mountains, rough and unshapely. Danbury will furnish a cap- 
ital dinner to those accustomed to masticate rapidly. Cardigan 
mountain may be seen from Grafton. At Enfield is a beautiful 
pond, on whose shores a community of Shakers have a neat 
settlement. Through Lebanon and East Lebanon, the train 
passes to 

White River Junction, where the road crosses the Con- 
necticut, and a union is effected with the trains from the valley 
of the Connecticut. This place is important only from the fact, 
that it is the convergent and divergent point of the eight rail- 
road trains, which here meet and separate over the Passumpsic, 
Northern, and Vermont Central Railroads. It is distant from 
New York, 2G5 miles ; from Boston 152 via Fitchburg, 142 
via Lowell ; from Wells River 40 ; from Willoughby Lake 80 ; 
and from Franconia Notch CO miles. Considerable self-posses- 
sion and self-control are requisite at this point, on the part of 
the traveller, lest he lose his baggage, his seat, his temper, and, 
most of all, his way. If he becomes flurried, he is in great 
danger of taking the " back track" for Concord, or of going 
against his will to Burlington, Yt., or of flying wildly to Bel- 
lows Falls, Yt. In the calmest state of mind, let him— after 
refreshment, for which there is ample time,— step into the cars 
of the Passumpsic Railroad; sure that ho is right, and he will 
soon go ahead through, perhaps, the most delightful region of 
country, which he has yet seen. 

The Connecticut & Passumpsic Rivers Railroad at present 
connects White River and Barton. It is designed to extend it 
to Canada. The road is in the valley of the Connecticut until 
it reaches Barnet ; from thence it is over and along the Pas- 
sumpsic. 

The extent and variety of the scenery on this portion of tho 



WHITE MOUNTAIN GUIDE. 113 

route is greater tlian is ever imagined by those who have never 
visited it. The great diversity and contrast of the views are 
alone sufficient to astonish and delight. Hill and valley, preci- 
pice and plain — sharp angular declivities, without a vestige of 
verdure, and smooth smiling meadow lands covered with the 
greenest sward and the heaviest crops, — a great surface of river 
on the one hand, unruffled and seemingly motionless, a little 
mountain stream on the other, dashed into foam by the speed of 
its descent— all these totally different and dissimilar prospects 
are so intermingled with one another, as to be a constant source 
of surprise and satisfaction. 

But divested of these more distant views there is still some- 
thing startling in the sudden changes presented to the eye over 
the very track itself; at one instant the cars are sweeping 
smoothly along the most beautiful of meadows— the next they 
are, apparently, penned within the solid rock, that rises fifty 
feet upon either hand ; they dash out upon a great embankment, 
that is invisible, and seemingly fly across the chasm which is 
beneath— they tremble along the lofty grade which falls pre- 
cipitously into the darkness and resonance of a bridge— emerge 
to sunlight by the side of some beautiful pond, and slowly draw 
to a halt in a quiet New England village. 

Norwich and Hanover, 4 miles on, are out of sight. Nor- 
wich is the seat of a military University. Hanover, on the New 
Hampshire side, is the location of Dartmouth Collef^e. 

o 

Ompompanoosuo is 9 miles farther on. It receives its name 
from an Indian stream near by which signifies, ''The very 
clear rocky river of the hills." A copperas mine is near by. 

North Thetford is TJ miles distant. Between this station 
and the nest there is a very good view of several mountains 
on the New Hampshire side. Mt. Cuba is the highest of these 

peaks, and is said to contain a scanty population of bears 

which from its barren appearance may well bo credited. 
A conical peak, to the right of Mt. Cuba is termed Sunday 
10* 



114 WHITE MOUNTAIN GUIDE. 

Mountain. It looms up blue and melancholy in the distance, 
its summit destitute of vegetation and its sides scarred by 
avalanches. Black Mountain and Mt. Sago are beyond. 

On leaving Fairlee, the Moosehillock Mountain, four thou- 
sand eight hundred and seven feet high, 

" Upheaves its huge bare back emergent," 
and for nearly twenty miles remains in sight. 

Newbury, 35 miles from White Kiver, is chiefly noted for its 
Sulphur Springs, as infallible a specific as Patent Medicine 
for many diseases. Passing through a tremendous cut in the 
solid rock, we reach 

Wells River, the junction of the Montreal, the Passumpsic, 
and the White Mountains Railroads. The latter is the road 
necessary for reaching Franconia. There is no detention, and 
the cars are soon making their way up the Amraonoosuc River. 
The opening of this road, while it has accommodated the host 
of travellers in this direction, has materially diminished the 
patronage of two excellent hotels, the Wells River House, and 
the Coosack House, where, if desired, a comfortable homo may 
be found for any one wishing for a quiet summer retreat. At 
the former house, was to be seen a year or two since, a stable 
of the finest Morgan horses in the country— young, sound, 
unblemished, fast, and beautifully symmetrical. 

Bath is distant five miles from Wells River, and is a very 
neat and prosperous place. A good hotel— the Bath— may be 
found here, and there is fine fishing, as well as fine scenery in 
the neighborhood. 

Lisbon in a quiet village, in no way remarkable except for 
the indications which are here clearly given of an approach to 
the highlands. The mountains are seen in the distance, and, on 
a fine° summer afternoon, the eflfect of the landscape is very 
exhilarating. 

Littleton is the terminus of railroad travel in this dii-ection, 



WHITE MOUNTAIN GUIDE. 115 

and is reached about 5 o'clock, P. M. Stages are in readiness 
to start immediately for the Franconia Notch and the White 
Mountain Notch, the former distant twelve, the latter eighteen 
miles, with fares at one and two dollars respectively. 

Having taken on board the evening mail for the denizens of 
the mountain region, and waited long enough for the passen- 
gers to snatch a hasty meal at the Union, or the White Moun- 
tain House, the stage coaches are off upon their course for the 
long desired goal. For twelve miles, the road winds along in 
the valleys and ascends the hills, through the little villages of 
Bethlehem and Franconia. The land rises on either side, its 
highest elevations softly burnished by the setting sun. The 
mountains in the distance glow with a more radiant light. 
Gradually, the shadows steal up their sides, as the sun goes 
down. Darkness settles in the valley. The passengers beguile 
the way with *' Stage Coach Stories," or gaze in an admiring 
silence on the varied landscape, as the " last rays of departing 
day linger and play upon the summits" of the neighboring hills. 
An occasional cabin is now only to be seen along the road-side. 
Soon, even this slight symptom of human life disappears. In 
the deepening shades of evening, the coach rattles, for two or 
three miles, through a gloomy piece of dark forest, and by nine 
o'clock, the careful driver has brought his precious freight safely 
to the door of the hotel. The bright lights, the cosy fire in 
the open chimney, the sounds of merry voices, and the cordial 
greetings of friends, welcome the arriving party to the abundant 
cheer, and the generous hospitality of the Profile House. 

2. Concord to White Mountains, via Montreal Railroad. 

Three different routes are presented to the tourist over this 
road. (1.) He may go to Wells River, thence over the White 
Mountains Railroad to Littleton and down to Franconia by 
stage as by the Northern Railroad just described. (2) He 
may leave the cars at Plymouth and proceed directly to the 
Flume House by stage. (3) The cars may be left at the 



110 WHITE MOUNTAIN GUIDE. 

Weirs, and the traveller may pursue his journey to the White 
Mountain Notch, via Centre Harbor and Conway. 

1. Cars to Littleton. This route is shorter than by the 
Northern Railroad, though passengers arrive at the Profile, or 
White Mountain House at the same time as by the other route- 
It has the advantage of skirting along the shores of Lake Win- 
nipisaukee. The change of cars and confusion of White River 
Junction is also avoided. The distance is 124 miles ; from 
Boston, 198. Fare from IBoston to Franconia, $7.50. Time 
from Boston, twelve hours. 

Should the preference be given for the route over the jMon- 
treal Railroad, the tourist will find the cars of the road ready 
to start upon the arrival of the train from Boston. The road 
crosses the Merrimack River, soon after leaving the Concord 
station, and continues up that river upon its eastern bank, 
through the villages of Canterbury, Northfield, Sanbornton 
Bridge, — where the road crosses a portion of Lake Winnipi- 
saukee, called the Great Bay — Laconia, and Lake Village to 
"Weirs." Here the Steamer Lady of the Lake, Capt. Wm. 
Walker, Jr., is ready to start for Centre Harbor. As a 
description of this Lake will be given hereafter, we will not 
detain the reader at this point. 

Laconia is the stopping place for Gilford, where the traveller 
will find a good hotel kept by A. L, Morrison. Mt. Belknap, 
four and a half miles distant is much visited. The Canterbury 
Shakers are only twelve miles distant — a pleasant ride. The 
citizens are very hospitable. The Lake, also, may be visited 
from this place. 

We pass rapidly through Meredith Village and Holderness, 
and arrive at Plymouth soon after noon. Having fortified the 
inner man with the good cheer of our jolly host, Burnham, we 
return to the cars, and proceeding through Quincy, Rumney, 
Wentworth, Warren and Haverhill, with Carr's mountain, 
Moosehillock, and the spurs of the Franconia range in sight, 



WHITE MOUNTAIN GUIDE. 117 

reach Wells River. Here a junction is made witli the cars 
from below on the Passurapsic route, and the White Mountains 
Road, and the train after a short detention goes on to Littleton. 
(See page 114.) 

MoosEHiLLocK MOUNTAIN, as has just been said, is in sight 
from the road between Plymouth and Wells River. As this 
mountain is one of the highest in the vicinity, some tourists may 
desire to visit it. To do this, they should leave the cars at 
Warren, twenty miles from Plymouth. Two small hotels, the 
Union and the Grafton House, here provide for the accommo- 
dation of guests. Three or four miles from the village is a 
lead mine. The company commenced operations only last year. 
The five miles to the base of Moosehillock can easily be passed 
over in a carriage. A bridle-path was constructed to its summit 
during the past season and a large company from Concord, N. 
H., made the ascent in September. Prof. A. Guyot, also made 
an excursion to this mountain, and, we are permitted to make 
the following extract from a letter written by him, descriptive 
of the view : 

" The panorama which is before your eyes at the summit of 
INIoosehillock is nearly the most extensive I have found in New 
England, not excepting even that from Mts. Washington and 
Lafayette, over which it possesses many advantages. This is 
due to the insulated position of that mountain outside of the 
group of the White Mountains proper, combined with its great 
elevation, which surpasses by 1,000 feet to 1,500 feet the sur- 
rounding heights, while it is less than 500 below the summit of 
Lafayette. The eye thus embraces at a single glance in the 
north and northeast all the chains of the White Mountain 
group from Lafayette and Mt. Washington to the high peaks of 
the central, southern and eastern chains in Sandwich and Con- 
way. Towards the northwest the view extends into Canada ; 
on ihe west and southwest the whole State of Vermont with its 
long and continuous chain of the Green Mountains; towards the 



118 WHITE MOUNTAIN GUIDE. 

Fouth and east the whole State of New Hampshire, with its 
innumerable scattered hills and lakes, among which Winnipi- 
saukee is conspicuous, and a part of Maine, complete the grand, 
instructive, raised map which is opened before the beholder. 
Moosehillock, which is now so accessible by the way of the 
Boston, Concord & Montreal Railroad, and by means of a path, 
recently cut through the forest to the summit, deserves to take 
a distinguished place among the high summits visited by the 
lovers of mountain scenery." 

It is in contemplation to construct a road from Warren to 
Franconia. If this is done, it will be the shortest route to 
Franconia, the distance being only fourteen miles. From the 
summit of Moosehillock to Franconia the distance is only eight 
miles. 

Those who desire to visit Lakes Willoughby and Mcmphre- 
magog will continue their journey from Wells Eivcr over the 
Connecticut and Passumpsic Hailroad to St. Johnsbury, Bar- 
ton, and Derby. At Barton stages leave for Lake Willoughby 
upon the arrival of the cars from below. The distance is but 
seven miles over a good road. 

Derby is on the south-eastern shore of Lake Memphremagog, 
and is a pleasant town on the verge of the State of Vermont. 
These two places must not be omitted from the programme of 
pleasure travel. They abound in the finest scenery of all this 
ref^ion, and can be reached with comparative ease and at a 
moderate expense. A number of small streams run into Lake 
Memphremagog from the south, and numerous ponds, well 
stocked with different varieties of fish, are to be found in all 
this section, agreeably diversifying the face of the country. 
The hills upon the shores lie pleasantly basking in the sunshine, 
and the whole place ever breathes the sweet influence of con- 
tentment and peace. Those who know the region, and the 
route thither need not be reminded of its quiet and repose, 
while those who have yet the pleasure in reserve need but a 



WHITE MOUNTAIN GUIDE. 119 

single suggestion, to induce them to include a visit to the 
locality in the plan of their summer tour. 

WiLLOUGHBY LaKE 

is a beautiful sheet of water, between six and seven miles in 
length, and varying from half a mile to two miles in width. It 
is of a crescent shape, with little inlets and promontories along 
its shores. It is within a gap or chasm of the Green Mountain 
range, and forms a great reservoir for the brooks in the immedi- 
ate vicinity. The waters of the Lake discharge, through a 
small stream, into the St. Francis and thence into the St. Law- 
rence. The brooks and rivulets, however, which are crossed a 
few rods before reaching the Hotel, flow into the Passumpsio 
and down the Connecticut. 

The loveliness of the Lake is greatly enhanced by the rough 
and precipitous scenery around it. The Lake is all beauty and 
repose, while tbe mountains, that rise abruptly from its shores, 
are rough and angular. 

At some remote day, the two peaks, that now tower on either 
side of the Lake, undoubtedly formed a single summit, and 
were separated by some of the volcanic throes whose traces are 
so visible throughout this region. Mt. Ananance, the peak 
upon the eastern shore, is one thousand nine hundred and fifty 
feet high. It receives its name from a chief of the St. Francis 
tribe which once lived here. A modern attempt to christen it 
" Pisgah " has fortunately been unsuccessful. The unnamed 
summit confronting Mt. Ananance, on the opposite side of the 
Lake, is fifteen hundred feet high. Here, a short distance 
from the water, there is a sparse growth of pine, fir, spruce, 
cedar and hemlock, rapidly dwindling into dwarf birch and 
shrubs. The soil they cover is thin and rocky, evidently a 
detritus from the mountains. This vegetation is on an angle, 
from the side of the mountain, of at least forty-five degrees, 
and extends up about six hundred feet. It is terminate°d by 
the solid rock which rises, from above the tree tops, a thousand 



120 WHITE MOUNTAIN GUIDE. 

feet perpendicularly. A forest of stunted pine and hemlock 
bristles around the summit, cleared away, however, for a little 
space on the highest elevation, so as to aflford a view of the 
surrounding country. 

From this observatory, easily attained on horseback and 
nearly reached with a carriage, there is a most beautiful land- 
scape visible. Lake Memphremagog and Owl's Head Moun- 
tain are twenty miles to the north ; Lake Champlain and its 
shipping fifty miles to the westward ; every prominent part of 
the White Mountains, the entire range of the Green Mountains, 
Massaweepee Lake, — the beautiful pond in Westmoreland, 
Burke and Newark — are all fairly visible from the summit of 
Mt. Ananance. 

Near the ** Devil's Den," — a doubtful looking hole in the 
rock, about midway down the Lake shore, — it is said no sound- 
ings can be obtained, although fabulous quantities of line have 
be°en expended in the attempt. Above this spot, some six 
hundred feet on the hill side, and just at the base of a precipi- 
tous rock, there is, what has been named, the Flower Garden — 
a spot where all varieties of wild plants grow and blossom. 
And still higher than the Flower Garden, in the rock itself, 
where the foot of man never trod and probably never will, is 
the Eagle's Eyrie. All these spots, and the traces of many an 
avalanche and land slide, may be seen by the tourist in saiUng 
down the Lake. 

The WiLLOUGHBY Lake House, by Alonzo Be3iis, is a three 
story edifice, located about one hundred rods from the Lake 
and commanding a fine view of it. There is a large piazza ex- 
tending around the house and a promenade deck along the roof. 
The house is well arranged. The sleeping rooms are spacious ; 
the parlors well furnished; and the tables well provided. Fish 
abound in the Lake and especially the muscalunge, a species of 
pickerel peculiar to the Lake. 



white xmountain guide. 121 

Lake Memphremagoo 
is another beautiful sheet of water, much larger and some- 
what farther to tlie north than Willoughbj. It is on the line 
between Canada and Vermont. The distance thither from 
^yilloughby is eighteen miles — the first seven of which may be 
accomplished,*if desired, by boat. From thence a stage runs 
to the Lake. 

^ Memphremagog is thirty-five miles long and from one to six 
wide. Its general course is north and south. Black River, 
Barton River, and the Clyde flow into it from Vermont. It 
receives the waters of several small streams in Lower Canada 
and empties, through Magog River, into the St. Francis and 
thence into the St. Lawrence. It contains some islands of con- 
siderable size and great loveliness. There are several towns 
and villages of respectable population along its shores. 
^ Owl's Head Mt., 2,743 feet high, rises up on the western 
side, and affords, from its summit, a view more extended and 
magnificent than almost any other in this portion of New Eng- 
land. A bridle path has recently been constructed to the 
summit. Lake Champlain, Massaweepce Lake, and Lake Wil- 
loughby, the White Mountains and the Green Mountains, the 
rivers St. Lawrence and St. Francis can be clearly seen. In a 
fair day the city of Montreal is also visible. Aside from these 
more remote views, there is a most enchanting prospect at its 
very base, along the entire length of the Lake. 

The steamboat "Mountain Maid" has been enlarged the 
past year to double its former size. It runs from Newport in 
Vermont to Outlet Village in Canada, touching at different 
places on the Lake, under the command of Capt. Fogg. There 
are several good Hotels in these various places. The Moun- 
tain House, near Owl's Head, is as comfortable as any and as 
well kept. 

2. Fkanconia via Plymouth. The traveller, as we said 

before, may leave the cars at Plymouth and proceed directly 

11 ^ 



122 WUITE MOUNTAIN GUIDE. 

up the valley of the Pemigewasset to Franconia. Thl.^ is, by 
far, the shortest and most direct route to this part of the raounj 
tain region. The distance from Boston to Franconia is 145 
miles ;°from Concord, 75. The time from Boston is ten hours. 
Leaving New York by the evening boats, one may be in Fran- 
conia in season for tea the next day. " Fare, from Boston, 
$6.00 ; from Concord, $3.85. 

Leaving Concord in the cars as indicated on page 116, wo 
arrive at Plymouth in season for dinner. There are many 
objects of interest at Plymouth, if one desires to remain and 
become acquainted with the charms of the locality— Burniiam's 
Hotel is a desirable tarrying place for all in quest of health or 
pleasure. Plymouth Village has a lovely situation, in the 
midst of the finest scenery. From Walker's Hill, can be 
obtained a capital view of the village and the river. Liver- 
more's Falls, two miles north of the village, present a remark- 
able appearance. They are probably the result of volcanic 
action, and invite the attention of the student of science, and 
the lover of nature. Prospect Hill affords an unsurpassed view 
of the most diversified character. Mountain, valley, lake, and 
river, interspersed with fertile meadows, shining cottages, and 
thrifty villacres, within a circuit of thirty miles, meet the delight- 
ed eye in every direction, while in the north the rugged cliffs 
and peaks of the Franconia and White Mountain ranges rise 
like everlasting towers. This is the finest view, with the excep- 
tion of Bed Hill, south of the mountains. The distance, from 
the hotel, is, by carriage, three miles, and one additional mile 
of bridle-path. Devil's Den is a cave from three hundred to 
four hundred feet deep, and is situated in Campton Hollow, six 
miles distant from Plymouth. Good trout-fishing may be found 
at Waterville, eighteen miles distant. Board may be obtained 
in Plymouth at the Pemigewasset House at the rate of 81.00 
and $1.50 per day; in private families for $4 and $5.00 per 
week If the traveller desires to be independent of stage- 



WHITE MOUNTAIN GUIDE. 123 

coaches and railroads, he can obtain horses and drivers at the 
livery stables in the village. 

Should he choose the stage-coach, he will enjoy a most 
delightful ride of twenty-four miles to the Flume House, trac- 
ing the course of the Pemigewasset River. The road in some 
places is rather rough, but the weariness of the way is amply 
compensated by the variety of beautiful objects, that are every- 
where presented to the view. The river meanders in its 
winding course, now with placid and quiet current through 
green meadows, and now in rapid and headlong torrent over its 
pebbly bed, while little cascades are bursting from the hills, 
falling in sheeted foam over the opposing rocks, to make their 
way to the welcoming stream below. As the route leaves the 
village, the mountains begin to appear in the distance. As the 
distance lessens, the white porticos of the Flume House are 
seen, welcoming our approach. The hotel seems like a ** nest 
among the mountains," as it is relieved by the dark mass, amid 
which it rests. The little villages of Campton and Thornton 
are the resort of artists, who spend weeks in the vicinity sketch- 
ing for future studies. Campton is said to contain more points 
for fine prospects, than any town in the neighborhood. A quiet 
little inn upon the roadside looks the abode of comfort. AVood- 
gtock and Lincoln are small towns of no particular note. The 
road is now in the midst of the mountain region. The dark 
hills loom up on every side, as the day departs. The Pemi- 
gewasset, now reduced to a little brook, murmurs at our feet. 
We have seen the summits of the hills brighten in the rich glow 
of sunset. The clouds are tinged with golden light, changing 
to soft purple, and the grey of evening. The stars come out, 
the moon sends her gentle rays down into the valley. In the 
late twilight, after a half day's exquisite enjoyment, we climb 
the hill and soon alight beneath the grateful shelter of the 
Flume House. The Peofile House is in the same region, 
four miles distant, and passengers who desire, can immediately 
proceed thither. 



124 WHITE MOUNTAIN GUIDE. 

3. WuiTE Mountain Notch via Conway, Centre Harbor, 
Lake Winnipisaukee, and Concord. Distance from Boston, 
172 miles. Time, 36 hours. Fare, $7.50. 

At the Weirs, (32 miles from Concord ; lOG from Boston ; 
and 73 from White Mountain Xotch) we leave the cars of the 
Boston, Concord Sc Montreal Railroad (see page 116) and find 
ourselves on 

Lake Winnipisaukee. 

The Lake lies in tlio two counties of Carroll and Belknap, 
and is very irregular in form. At the west end, as we approach 
it at the Weirs, it is divided into three large buys; at the north 
is a fourth ; and at the east end there are three others. Its 
general course is from southeast to northwest. From one 
extreme end to the other the distance is not far from twenty-five 
miles. The width varies from one to seven miles. The towns 
of Moultonborough, Wolf borough, Tuftonborough, Centre Har- 
bor, Meredith, Gilford and Alton, lie upon its borders, while 
from the high land of more distant towns fine views can be 
obtained of its placid waters. 

The waters of the Lake descend four hundred and seventy- 
two feet in finding their way to the Atlantic. A rapid river of 
its own name, over which the railroad passes at Sanbornton 
Bridge, serves as its outlet to the Merrimack. The depths of 
Lake Winnipisaukee are remarkably clear, so that the fish can 
be seen with great distinctness, playing among the stones at the 
depth of many feet. The fish, of which there is a great variety, 
can be frecjuently caught at the steamboat wharf. While the 
boat is waiting for the arrival of the trains it is no uncommon 
thing for the passengers to employ their leisure hours in keep- 
ing Capt. Walker's fishing tackle from rusting for want of 
use. The ''oldest inhabitants," who know the haunts " where 
Jish do congregate," can convey you to rare sport. There is 
one place, and one only, in the Lake where for about two weeks 
large numbers of smelts can be caught. Then all disappear 



WHITE MOUNTAIN GUIDE. 125 

and none are seen till the recurrence of the same season. For- 
merly, before so many dams obstructed their course, the shad 
came up here from the sea to leave their spawn in the shallow 
bays. The progress of manufactures has now greatly abridged 
their ancient privileges. 

Lake Winnipisaukee is a mountain lake. Yet it lacks almost 
all those wild rough features of mountain scenery which usually 
characterize inland waters in mountainous regions. The moun- 
tains rise on all sides, but the shore seen from the distance is 
compartively smooth and level. The islands, far from being 
precipitous and rocky, are covered with verdure and seem to 
float like fairy castles upon the broad lake-mirror. The lake is 
usually approached in the calm and stillness of the noon-day 
sun. The spirit of repose, incident upon the hour and upon 
the escape from the hot, dusty cars, harmonizes with the green 
foliage of the islands and the quiet surface of the water. By 
and by, just after starting, a mild, balmy breeze just ruffles 
the surface of the lake, and giving yourself up to its softening 
influences, you no longer wonder at the Indian admiration which 
gave it the name of " The beautiful water in a high place." 

The Lake, in common with Lake George and Casco Bay, 
has its three hundred and sixty-five islands, and, perhaps an 
extra one for leap year. Lideed it would be a modification of 
the old tale if in future Lake Winnipisaukee should claim three 
hundred and sixty-six for leap years and leave to its rivals the 
more vulgar tradition. 

At the Weirs, we embark upon the steamboat " The Lady 
OF THE Lake." This is a charming little steamer and under 
the safe protection of Capt. Wsi. Walker, Jr,, you will ride 
safely to Centre Harbor or Wolf borough. Near the Weirs, at 
the head of the river, had you time, you might see the old 
" Endicott Eock" with its quaint and curious carving. It was 
discovered a few years since by accident as they were building 
a dam. It is supposed to commemorate the following : In 1652, 
11* 



126 



WniTE MOUNTAIN GUIDE. 



during the administration of Gov. Endicott, tho General Court 
of Massachusetts, desirous of more exactly ascertaining the 
bounds of their colony, appointed Captains Edward Johnson and 
Simon Willard commissioners for the purpose of making a 
survey. The expedition which they headed, reached this spot, 
where their Indian guide assured them the Merrimack had its 
head waters. The E I and S W are the initials of the early 
surveyors ; the W P is considered an abbreviation of ' ' Wor- 
shipful." The remainder probably alludes to the fact that the 
expedition was undertaken during the administration of Wor- 
shipful Gov. John Endicott. 

But the tinkling of the signal bell soon gives us warning that 
we are to leave the wharf. We now wind our way through the 
numberless islands that crowd our path. Red Hill now appears 
in sight and then is lost behind an intervening island. An 
opening between two islands give you a view of Rattlesnake 
Island. The snake after which the island is named is even 
now to be found here. None have been seen elsewhere about 
the lake for many years. Gunstock Mountain is also to be 




View of ''Aunt Dolly's." 



WHITE MOUNTAIN GUIDE. 127 

seen on the right, and on the opposite quarter Ossipee rears its 
bare head. This mountain, the tourist will find difficulty in 
escaping. The road towards the Notch winds round its base, 
and not till he has passed over a good part of his journey 
toward Conway, will he succeed in leaving it behind him. 
About three miles from the Weirs we reach Bear Island, which 
is nearly four miles long. Upon one of these numerous islands 
there resided, in 1851, " solitary and alone," an aged spinster 
familiarly known as " Aunt Dolly." In this wild and romantic 
spot, almost entirely cut off from the world, she lived in hermit 
grandeur, taking care of her corn, her few sheep, and occasion- 
ally rowing her own skiff to the main land. At length, after a 
ride of ten miles, we reach Centre Harbor. 

Should the traveller have leisure to spend upon this beautiful 
Lake, he cannot do hotter than continue his journey to 

WOLFBOROUGH. 

The distance from Centre Harbor is about twenty miles, and is 
usually accomplished in two hours. For the first mile or two the 
course pursued is the same as that over which he has just passed. 
But we soon leave the old path and pass through a broader 
portion of the Lake than that just traversed. It is a most de- 
lightful trip in a clear morning or pleasant evening. At sunset, 
particularly, and when the evening shades begin to prevail, we 
have the finest view of the distant mountains, with their ever 
varying hues. 

If it falls to the lot of the traveller to be near the Lake on 
some bright moonlight evening, he should not fail to inquire if 
a moonlight excursion is to take place. These excursions are 
frequently made by parties from neighboring towns who charter 
the boat for that purpose. Jhey even come, at times, from 
Concord and from Dover on extra trains. A ticket for the ex- 
cursion can easily be obtained, and it will not be deemed an 
intrusion. Rather than attempt any suggestion of the beauties 
of the Lake at such a time, we leave it to be actually realized 
or imadned. 



128 WUITE MOUNTAIN GUIDE. 

The village at "Wolf borough is delightfully situated on two 
beautiful slopes of laud rising from a bay of the Lake. The 
"Pavillion," a spacious and comfortable hotel is situated on 
the rising ground, commanding a fine view of the Lake. 
Horses and carriages can be obtained at the livery stables. 
Boats, for fishing parties or sailing excursions are also obtainable. 

CoppLE Crown Mountain, five miles from Wolf borough may 
be easily ascended. The view from its summit is thought by 
many to equal that from Red Hill. The mountain scenery is, 
however, more distant. The prospect embraces an excellent 
view of the Lake, a large number of villages, and some thirty 
sheets of water in New Hampshire and Maine can be counted. 
Vessels on the ocean can be discerned with a glass. Adjoining 
Copple Crown, on the northeast, is a smaller mountain of sin- 
gular formation, called "Tumble-down-Dick." Mt. Washing- 
ton may be distinctly discerned in a clear day. 

The price of board is from $5.00 to $10.00 per week. 

Leaving Wolf borough we return by the steamer to 

Centre Harbor. This beautiful summer retreat is situated 
on the northern shore of the Lake, between Winnipisaukee and 
Squara Lake. Its fine location and beautiful scenery have long 
made it a favorite resort for those accustomed to frequent the 
Lake. The fine excursions, which can be made along the 
shores of the Lake — around the "ring," skirting on Squam 
Lake — or to Red Hill, render it very attractive. Good boats 
are also to be had for fishing parties upon the Lake. 

The Senter House, by Gilman & Huntress, formerly of 
the Profile House, is a large and pleasant hotel. It is situated 
on the rising ground facing the Lake, of which it commands an 
excellent view. The hotel, one of the best in the mountain 
region, is commodious and well furnished, and has been long 
and favorably known for the convenience of its arrangements, 
the perfection of its table, and courtesy of the proprietors. An 
extensive livery stable is connected with the hotel. Moulton's 
Hotel is a smaller house near by. 



WUITE MOUNTAIN GUIDE. 129 

The chief object of interest in the immediate vicinity of 
Centre Harbor is 

Red IIiLL. 

From this hill, about four miles distant, in Moultonboroush , 
the best view of the Lake and ihe circumjacent scenery can bo 
obtained. Its height, two thousand jBve hundred feet, places 
before the eye of the observer an extensive, varied, and pic- 
turesque tract of country, perhaps nowhere excelled in New 
England. It is by no means difficult to climb. There is a 
wagon-path to the base, and thence well trained ponies convey 
you to the summit. The top is destitute of trees and bushes, 
and affords an uninterrupted prospect far and wide. In clear 
days the peaks of the White Mountains are dimly discernablo 
in the far north ; the Ossipee Mountains appear in the east ; a 
little to the north, Chocorua, recalling its Indian tradition, rears 
its craggy summit ; and still farther away the mountains of 
Maine close in the view. Kearsarge and Monadnock aro 
plainly visible at the southwest, with Gunstock at the southeast. 
S(|uara Lake, six miles long, is glittering in the sunshine on the 
west. 

But to the south and east lies Winnipisaukee, the gem of all 
New England Lakes. The ascent of Red Hill is usually 
made in the forenoon ; but to enjoy the exquisite loveliness of 
Winnipisaukee it should be made in the afternoon or in the 
early morning. In the middle of the day the blinding glare of 
the sun upon the water almost robs it of the quiet beauty of its 
softness and harmony. Rut in the afternoon the sun illumines 
with a genial glow the calm expanse of the distant surface of 
the Lake ; the rippling waves just reflect its image ; the hun- 
dred islands assume their peculiar form of grace and loveliness ; 
the mountains on the opposite shore, from a glow of crimson, 
change to a brown purple, as the lingering rays of the setting 
sun leave them, one by one ; while the advancing shadows of 
those nearer to you change to a new form the fairy outline of 



130 WHITE MOUNTAIN GUIDE. 

the Lake. If, too, you are early riser enough to sec, from its 
summit, the sun roll up majestically from behind the opposite 
hills, you will acknowledge that Lake Winnipisaukee possesses 
a charm and beauty peculiar to itself. 

Coaches leave Centre Harbor for Conway regularly every 
day' soon after the arrival of the morning boat from the Weirs. 
Ample time is allowed for dining on the boat, or, after landing, 
at the excellent hotel just spoken of. The distance to Conway 
is thirty miles, and the fare from Centre Harbor $2.50. 

MouLTONBOiiouGii, fivc milcs from Centre Harbor, contains 
Red Hill. Ossipee Mountain, moreover, extends into it. On 
that part of the mountain, within the limits of the town are two 
springs of some note ; the one a mineral chalybeate spring, 
sovereign for cutaneous diseases ; the other simply a spring of 
good cold water, sovereign for thirstiness, sixteen feet in diame- 
ter, and through the centre of which the water, containing a 
quantity of fine white sand, is thrown up two feet. From this 
source flows a beautiful stream, which, about a mile below, has 
a perpendicular descent of about seventy feet. On its left side 
is a cave containing relics of Indian life. Many of these relics 
have been found in various parts of the town, and it is proba- 
ble that the Ossipee tribe of Indians had their residence near 
here. 

Sandwich is a small rocky town, merely touched upon in 
one corner. White Face Mountain in this town is 2,970 feet 
high. It is visible from the road. The course of a land-slide 
which occurred about thirty years ago can easily be traced on 
the south side. At Centre Sandwich, a few miles from the 
main road, the traveller will find neat and quiet accommodation 
at the hotel kept by James H. Durgin. Squam Lake is quite 
near the hotel and the mountain brooks abound in trout. The 
price of board is from $3.00 to $10.00 per week. 

Tamworth is sixteen miles from Centre Harbor. Thence 
coasting along the shores of Ossipee Pond, a beautiful sheet of 



•\VII1TE BIOUNTAIN GUIDE. 131 

water Ijiiig in the town of Madison, after a drive of fourteen 
miles Conway is reached. Ossipee signifies *' Pino River." 
The Pond is also sometimes called Pequawket Lake. 

In this latter part of the drive, a fine view is obtained of Mt. 
Chocorua (" The old bear.") It is one of the most notable 
of the lower peaks of the White Mountain range. It is 3,358 
feet high and without vegetation — other than such as a few blue- 
berries or cranberries create. It is, in fact, a granite mountain, 
with pinnacles and precipices, sharp, angular peaks and unex- 
pected descents ; — a countless myriad of great boulders, hurled 
together by more than Titanic force. One of the peaks of 
Chocorua is the scene of the tragic incident from which the 
peak derives its name, so beautifully narrated by Mrs. Seba 
Smith. 

Conway, though the gate to the mountain region, is one of 
the most level towns in the State. In itself it possesses few 
objects of interest. In the vicinity, however, are brooks well 
stocked with trout. Most of the objects of interest in North 
Conway, also, are accessible from this place. Here, however, 
the stage remains over night. The Conway House, kept by 
Jonathan Dow, is an excellent hotel. It is particularly famous 
for its omelettes, which will be found very palatable after the 
ride from Centre Harbor. 

From Conway to Gibb's Hotel the distance is thirty-three 
miles. The fare is $2.50. The road, though hilly and broken, 
aflfords charming landscape views. 

Five miles farther on, in the valley of the Saco, and sur- 
rounded on all sides by mountains, lies 

North Conway, the favorite resort of our New England 
Artists. Many families resort to this place in the summer 
season to avoid the noise, bustle and expense of large hotels. 
The Saco river here is from ten to twelve rods wide, and usually 
about two feet deep. It has been known to rise 27, and even 
30 feet in twenty-four hours. Large quantities of magnesia 



132 WHITE MOUNTAIN GUIDE. 

and fullers' earth arc found in the town. Three good hotels 
are located here; the Washinoton House, by W. C. Eastmax, 
is three stories high and will accommodate about seventy-five ; 
the Keaksakge House, by Samuel W. Thompson ; and the 
North Conway House, by N. R. Mason. Echo Lake, Diana's 
Bath, the Cathedral, "White Horse and Hart's Ledge are places 
much visited and within three hours ride. Kearsarge or Pequaw- 
ket mountain, 3,367 feet above sea level, is an object of interest. 
The hotel erected on the summit has almost fallen to decay. 
The view of the mountains from North Conway is very charm- 
ing. The accompanying engraving may serve to give one an 
idea of the scene. 

A pleasant ride of ten miles brings us to 

Upper Bartlett. At this point we join the travel between 
the Glen House and Gibb's. For a further description see 
page 45. 

V. New York to Concord, N. H., by way of "Worcester, 
Nashua and Manchester. The traveller may leave New York 
in the morning by route No. IV, page 95, and go to Worces- 
ter. From \\ orcester he will proceed to Nashua and arrive 
at Concord at 8 P. M. and leave for the mountains by routes 
above at 10:30 the next morning. Distance 275 miles. 
Fare, $6.50. Or he may leave in the evening over the same 
route or by the boat to Allyn's Point, route No. IH, page 93, 
and, waiting at AYorcester till morning, proceed to Concord, 
arriving in season to go to the mountains by the same trains as 
before. Fare by boat, $5.00. 

It is in contemplation, during the present season, to run a 
passenger car the entire distance between Allyn's Point and 
Littleton by the way of Worcester, Nashua, Concord, Weirs 
and Plymouth. A return car, to connect with the boat for 
New York, will also leave Littleton and go all the way to 
Allyn's Point. By this arrangement, the traveller will leave 




12 



134 WHITE MOUNTAIN GUIDE. 

Now York in the evening, step on board the cars at Alljn's 
Point, proceed, ^vith a short detention at Worcester, over the 
whole of his journey by rail, to the Weirs, to Plymouth, or to 
Littleton in the same car. Returning he will go without any 
change of cars directly to the steamboat at Allyn's Point. 
Much confusion and trouble will thus bo avoided. 

Should the preference be given to the Kailroad line, the 
traveller will take the cars of the New York and New Haven 
llailroad, which skirts the northern shore of Long Island Sound. 
For a distance of seventy-six miles, it passes through numerous 
agricultural villages and the busy cities of Norwalk and 
BiiiDGEPORT. The cars leave the passenger station on Twenty 
seventh street at the advertised time. 

Williams Bridge is the junction with the Harlem Railroad. 
East Chester, New Rochelle, Mamaroneck and Rye, arc 
small villages in the State of New York. The road crosses the 
State line into Connecticut, soon after leaving Port Chester. 
Greenwich, Stamford, and Darien are pleasant, agricultural 
and maritime towns in the " land of steady habits." Norwalk 
will be painfully remembered as the scene of the distressing 
accident, which occurred on this Road a few years ago, the cars 
running ofif the track through the open draw of the bridge 
across the Norwalk river, and maiming and killing several per- 
sons. We gladly leave this place behind us, and hurry on 
through We°stport, Southport, and Fairfield, all quiet, 
cheerful towns, to the fine city of Bridgeport. This place has 
a large fishing and coasting interest, and considerable manu- 
factures. Here the Housatonic Railroad forms a junction with 
the New Haven Road, and offers a beautiful avenue of travel 
throutrh the exquisite scenery of western Connecticut and Mas- 
sachusetts. Passing on, we go rapidly through Stratford, 
(the junction of the Naugatuck Railroad,) Milford, and West 
Haven, to New Haven, which is one of the finest cities of New 
Eugland. A stroll through the quiet streets, enshadowed by 



WHITE MOUNTAIN GUIDE. 135 

thousands of graceful elms, and lined with comfortable, and, 
in some instances, palatial residences, intermingled with ivy- 
covered churches, is most satisfactory and enjoyable. The 
visitor will notice the (Yale) College Green and buildings, and 
the State House. The Canal Railroad connects New Haven 
with Northampton by a rival route to the Springfield and Hart- 
ford Road. The New Haven and New London Railroad 
furnishes a route to Providence, a small steamboat plying be- 
tween New London and Stonington, connecting at the latter 
with Stonington and Providence Railroad. 

Leaving New Haven, we pass quickly through North Haven, 
Wallingford, Meriden, Berlin, and Newington, which is 
the station for Wethersfield, — over whose vegetable produc- 
tions many tears have been vainly shed, — to 

Hartford. This is a much more busy and bustling place, 
than its twin sister, which we have just left. Here also is a 
State House, for Connecticut, in common with Rhode Island, 
rejoices in two capitals. The reason of it must be traced to 
colonial prejudice. The two settlements were formerly under 
diflferent governments, and when they were united into one 
State, it was found necessary to establish two places of govern- 
ment, to satisfy both parties. Among the public buildings, 
may be noticed the Asylum for the Deaf and Dumb, the Retreat 
for the Insane, and Trinity College, all handsome establish- 
ments. Some of the most elegant and expensive Churches in 
New England are found in this city. The Trumbull Gallery 
and Library is worth a visit. Hartford is the residence of Mrs. 
Sigourney, and, was at one time, that of Andrew Jackson 
Davis. A cultivated and intelligent society makes the place 
attractive, both for strangers and residents. The Allyu House, 
a new and elegant Hotel, occupies a fine site, a short distance 
from the depot, and is a model house of entertainment. 

At this point, we come into the valley of the Connecticut, 
which, for those who leave this route at Springfield and go by 



;[3G WUITE MOUNTAIN GUIDE. 

the way of Bellow's Falls, will be in siglit for a great part of 
the time, till they arrive at Well's River, Vt. Stopping for a 
moment at Windsor, we cro^s the river at Windsor Locks, a 
busy village, thence through Enfield and Tiiompsonville, we 
cross the State line into Massachusetts at Longmeadow,^ one of 
the best farming towns in western Massachusetts. It is only 
four miles farther to 

Springfield. The Massasoit House and the Russell House 
are both first class houses near the depot. If the traveller de- 
sires to remain over night, or for a longer time, he will find no 
more comfortable place anywhere than at these hotels. The 
United States Armory is about a mile distant, and will well re- 
pay the trouble of a visit, while the city itself, with its nice, 
well shaded streets, its fine residences, and its agreeable social 
life, will furnish many inducements for a prolonged stay. To 
those, going up the valley of the Connecticut, a short stop is 
allowed for dinner. The passenger for Concord now passes 
through the centre of Massachusetts, a fine agricultural district, 

Worcester. Here we join the line of travel from New York, 
via Allyn's Point, described. From V/orcester our route lies 
over the Worcester and Nashua Railroad which passes through 
a number of small towns, of considerable thrift. From West 
Roylston to Sterling Junction, Mt. Wachusett, eight miles 
distant, may be observed, in a westerly direction. At Sterling 
Junction, a portion of the train branches to Fitchburg, giving 
passengers an opportunity to proceed to the valley of the Con- 
necticut, over the Cheshire Railroad. 
Clinton is a busy manufacturing town. 
Lancaster is a delightful village, affording many fine views 
from various points. At Still River an excellent view of the 
surrounding counfvy is obtained. Harvard Station is at some 
distance from the town, which stands high and is much esteemed 
for a quiet summer residence. 



WHITE MOUNTAIN GUIDE. 137 

Groton Junction is a quiet enough place at any other time 
than upon the arrival of the cars. Then it is a scene of great 
disorder. Six trains simultaneously arrive and depart over the 
Fitchburg, Worcester & Nashua, Stony Brook (for Lowell) 
and Peterboro' «fc Shirley Railroads. Old ladies with brown 
paper parcels and umbrellas, young ladies with band-boxes, 
fond parents with frightened babies, bewildered old gentlemen, 
and smart young dandies, who are too "knowing to inquire, and 
invariably go wrong, polite conductors, and hurrying express 
carriers, are mingled in almost inextricable confusion. But the 
railway officials are patient and attentive, and do their best to 
prevent mistakes. Those unfortunates, who are always making 
blunders, should by all means, avoid Groton Junction. We 
advise the traveller to keep his seat, his baggage check, and 
his equanimity, and be grateful when the train is fairly under 
way again, and this babel is seen no more. 

Groton, Pepperell and Hollis are agricultural towns, 
located on elevated ground, and present from different promi- 
nent points, some exceedingly pretty pictures. 

AVe at length reach Nashua, and the continuation of the 
route is the same as described on the 109th and following pages. 

yi. New York to Franconia, via Springfield and Bellows 
Falls. Distance to Bellows Falls, 222 miles; fare $6.00. 
Cars leave New York at 8 o'clock, A. M. ; arrive at Bellows 
Falls at 6 o'clock, P. M., stopping at Springfield half an hour 
for dinner. Railroads : New York & New Haven ; New Haven 
& Springfield ; Connecticut River ; Vermont Valley. 

From New York to Springfield, the route is the same as de- 
scribed on the 134th and following pages. At Springfield, wo 
take the cars of the Connecticut River Railroad, and continue 
up the valley of the river. 

The Connecticut River Railroad extends from Springfield to 
South Vernon, Vt., and passes through Cabotville, Chicopce, 
12* 



138 WHITE MOUNTAIN GUIDE. 

Willimansett, three busy manufacturing villages ; then crossing 
to the west Lank of the river, into the new city of Ilolyoke, it 
winds along under the shadow of Mt. Tom, 1,200 feet high, to 
Northampton, which is like a Paradise in its rural charms and 
graces. A noted Water Cure Establishment, at Round Hill, 
commanding an entensive view, is located in this town. Am- 
herst College is seven miles distant, on the opposite side of the 
river, and Mt. Holyoke near it, 830 feet above the river, is 
distinctly seen. The route passes on through Hatfield, Whately, 
South Deerfield, and Deerfield, containing the finest farms and 
meadows of this section, across the Deerfield River to 

Greenfield, a smart, busy, thriving place. Should the 
tourist desiro to stop a while here, he will find a good home at 
the Mansion House. One of the most popular places of resort 
for the town's people is The Glen, a most lovely, retired spot, 
just beyond the town line, in the town of Lyndon. Turner's 
Falls, in the Connecticut, in the neighborhood of which are to 
be found the gigantic - bird-tracks," familiar to geologists, are 
about four miles distant, over a good road. Leaving Greenfield, 
the Railroad passes through Bernardston, to South Vernon, on 
the boundary line of Vermont. Here an opportunity is pre- 
sented of visiting Keene, the most important town in south- 
Tvestern New Hampshire, by taking the cars of the Ashuelot 
Railroad, passing through the small towns of Hinsdale, the res- 
dence of the present Governor of the State, Winchester, and 
Swanzey. From Keene, the traveller can proceed over the 
Cheshire Railroad, to Bellows Falls, through East Westmore- 
land, Westmoreland and Walpole, within sight of Mt. Monad- 
nock. Should he choose not to diverge at South Vernon, ho 
will take the cars of the Vermont Valley Railroad, and will 
soon reach Brattleboro'. famous for its fine Water Cure, the 
purity and salubrity of its climate, its agreeable society, and the 
ir.ai'vellous beauty of the surrounding scenery. Chesterfield 
Mountain, on the New Hampshire bank of the Connecticut, is 



WHITE MOUNTAIN GUIDE. 139 

a favorite place of resort. From an observatory on its summit, 
a wide panorama is to be scon, closed by the peaks of the White 
Hills in the northern distance. Brattleboro' furnishes the most 
numerous attractions for a summer residence of any town in this 
vicinity. Thence the road lies through Dummerston — the site 
of a military fortress in the Revolution, called Fort Dummer — 
Putney, East Putney, and Westminster. At 6 o'clock, P. M. 
the traveller will be very glad to step from the cars at 

Bellows Falls, distant from New York, 222 miles. This 
is a delightfully situated village, on the Vermont side of 
the Connecticut River. The Island House, a short distance 
from the station, occupies a favorable site. It is a new, and 
well built structure, and furnishes a quiet home either for the 
invalid or the pleasure seeker. Directly in the rear, rises a 
lofty hill, presenting a fine view from its summit, which is easily 
reached. There is also a view obtainable from the bridge over 
the Connecticut in this place, well worthy of the tourist's at- 
tention. The river, which above is deep, broad and tranquil, 
with a width of about a thousand feet, and which below expands 
to an equal or greater surface, is, at this spot, beneath the bridge, 
compressed within a channel not more than twenty feet wide. 
Through this channel — confined on either side by a high granite 
wall, the whole volume of the Connecticut is forced, with a 
power and rapidity, which whitens its waters like a tide of snow- 
flakes. The fall is in no place perpendicular but in the distance 
of half a mile the waters descend forty-two feet. These falls 
were formerly a favorite resort of the Indians for purposes of 
fishing. Salmon were caught here in great numbers till within 
a recent period. Just below the bridge, on the west side of the 
river, will be noticed a large flat rock, covered with hiero- 
glyphics and rude portraits, supposed to have been cut by the 
aboriginal frequenters of this place. 

On the following morning, we proceed north over the Sullivan 
Railroad, leaving Bellows Falls about noon. Charlestown is a 



140 WHITE MODNTAIxN GUIDE. 

good farming town, well situated on the eastern bank of the 
Connecticut, which the road has crossed at Bellows Falls. 
Claremont is a pleasant manufacturing village on a small stream, 
emptying into the Connecticut. There are several cotton, 
woollen, and paper mills, besides other manufacturing establish- 
ments. Eleven miles farther the road again crosses the river, 
and brings the tourist to 

Windsor, Yt. As the cars run up the valley, the traveller 
will notice Mt. Ascutney, on the Vermont side, 3,200 feet high, 
and of easy ascent. Along the banks of the river and at the 
base of the hills, the eye will be gratiQed with the sight of 
numerous neat and pleasant farm houses, whose outward ap- 
pearance betokens the comfort and happiness of their inmates. 
Windsor is a place of considerable size and prominence. The 
Vermont State Prison is located here, and has obtained consid- 
erable reputation for the excellent quality of the fire-arms of 
various kinds manufactured by the inmates. 

Taking the cars of the Vermont Central Railroad, we con- 
tinue our journey through Hartland and North Hartland, to 
White River Junction. The remainder of this route is the same 
as described on the 112th and following pages. 

VII. New York to Franconia, via North River and Bel- 
lows Falls, Yt. Distance to Bellows Falls, 287 miles. Leave 
by boat or railroad 6:30, and 7, A. M.; arrive at Rutland, 9, 
P. M. Leave Rutland, 5:45, A. M.; arrive at Bellows Falls 
8:30, A. M. Fares by boat to Albany, $5 ; by rail, $7. 
Railroads : Hudson River ; Washington & Rutland or Western 
Vermont; Rutland and Burlington. 

The Hudson River has sometimes been called the Rhine of 
America. Intelligent and unprejudiced foreigners have pro- 
nounced the American stream superior to the European in every 
respect. It is navigable a much longer distance for vessels of 
considerable size ; its scenery is more varied, and there is more 



WHITE MOUNTAIN GUIDE. 141 

life and action along its banks. If it wants the addition of 
castles crowning the summits of the adjacent hills, the absence 
is more to be wished for than their presence. They are asso- 
ciated with times of barbarism, oppression, and the cruelty 
of feudal war. Our hills, reposing in the sunlight, or dark 
with the passage of storm clouds, are dear to us, from the 
associations which they have with the triumphs of liberty. 
Almost every point, from New York through the Highlands, 
even to Albany, has its history as connected with our revolu- 
tionary struggle. The interest which gathers around our recol- 
lections of Washington and his soldiers adds to the inspiring 
influence, which the contemplation of the natural beauties of 
the region excites. Our eyes rest on the same scenes, which 
our great captain loved to gaze upon. Our feet may tread the 
same paths, along which he rode in anxious thought, or in the 
fore-consciousness of victory. Every true patriot must be proud 
of the Hudson. 

We remember, too, that it was upon this river, that the first 
successful experiment in steam navigation v/as made by Fulton. 
He bravely persevered in his project of sailing, by means of 
steam, against the scoffs and jeers of all his friends, and when 
his boat left the pier, and made her way against the tide up the 
beautiful river, ho had the joy of exciting, even among the 
most incredulous, the wildest enthusiasm of admiration. It is 
related that the crews of the vessels which ho passed, as the 
strange bark approached them, with its volumes of smoke 
and its noisy machinery, were overwhelmed with affright. " They 
shrank from their decks at the terrific sight, and left their vessels 
to go ashore, while others prostrated themselves and besought 
Providence to protect them from the approach of the horrible 
monster, that was marching on the tide, and lighting its path by 
the fire which it vomited." The world has moved since then- 

For the journey to Albany, the summer tourist has his choice 
of travel. If he desires speed, he can step on board the com- 
fortable Hudson Eivcr Railroad cars and run his own risk of 



142 WHITE MOUNTAIN GUIDE. 

sight-seeing. If be wishes to enjoy the scenery, and is not so 
timid, as the " unprotected female," who would not step foot 
upon a steamboat, till the runner assured her, that his "boat 
bad no boiler and so there was no danger of explosion" — let 
him select some fine day, and take one of the day boats to 
Albany. For the modest sum of seventy-five cents, he can 
have a four hours' sail to West Point, passing under the shad- 
ows of the Palisades, and through a large portion of the 
Highlands. 

On leaving New York, he will notice, upon the opposite bank, 
which belongs to the State of New Jersey— the busy Jersey 
City, and the charming Hoboken, and just above the duelling 
ground of Burr and Hamilton. Fort Lee still on the New 
Jersey side is at the beginning of the Palisades. These are 
composed of a wonderful formation of basaltic or trap rock, are 
in height from two to five hundred feet, and extend with their 
frowning precipices, within a few feet of the water's edge, for a 
distance of twenty-five miles along the western bank of the 
river. This countinuous line of perpendicular cliffs is a most 
remarkable object. Underneath them, on the small strip of 
beach, may occasionally be seen a little village of two or three 
houses, with a landing place for the passing vessels. An 
occasional ravine, leading up the steep side of the bluff furnishes 
carriage communication with the interior. In some instances, 
no such communication exists, and the scanty inhabitants depend 
entirely upon the river for connection with the outside world. 
The summits of the Palisades are well wooded with a luxuriant 
growth of various kinds of trees, Just beyond, in the imme- 
diate interior, and at a considerable elevation above the river is 
the famous Rockland Pond, which supplies a large part of New 
York City with the purest ice. The view from the summit of 
the Palisades is superb. On a clear afternoon, the passing 
sails upon Long Island Sound can be discerned in the distance, 
while in the foreground, a long reach of the North River, from 



wiiitl; mountain guide. 143 

tbo Bay to the Tappan Zee, tbo rich farms of Westchester 
county, and the fine country seats of the New York millionaires 
upon the opposite banks, with the picturesque appearance of 
the small gteamers plying to and from the city and its suburbs, 
the numerous sloops and schooners, with the sun glistening on 
their wings, as they go and come, combine to form a picture, 
which, when once seen, is unfadingly daguerreotyped upon the 
memory. The tourist, however, is on board the steamboat, and 
this view is denied him. In default of it, we point out to him 
Maniiattanville, with its green lawns and pleasant residences ; 
Fort Washington, a memorable place in the Revolution ; and 
a structure in the form of a castle, built of stone, the erection 
of Mr. Edwin Forrest. To a man more interested in the raove- 
menls of the present day, than in attempts to reproduce the 
past, the arrangement for the conveyance of the telegraphic 
wires from the island, upon which the city of New York is 
situated, to the West and South will be of much greater interest. 
An immensely tall flagstaff, secured by numerous iron cables, 
rises upon the eastern bank of the river. From the top of this 
the wires arc suspended in mid-air across to a staff erected upon 
the Palisades. Part of the necessary wires are laid in the bed 
of the river across to the opposite side, and thus, the great 
business connections of New York with the country are estab- 
lished. 

Passing onward, we reach Yonkers, a pleasant village upon 
the eastern bank of the river, the residence of " Mr. Spar- 
rowgrass," whose beautiful and commodious dwelling hardly 
suggests the ludicrous inconveniences of "living in the coun- 
try." Four miles farther is Dobbs' Ferry, which has its his- 
torical reminiscences. Opposite this place, a few miles above, 
is Piermont, the freight terminus of the New York and Erie 
Eailroad. A massive pier, a mile in length, extends into the 
river, on which are built the railroad tracks, and the immense 
freight depots, necessary for the great business of the road. 



144 wuiTE mou::tain guide. 

On the eastern Lank, a railc or two above Dobba' Ferry, is 
Sunny Side, the residence of Washington Irving. The liouse 
can just be discerned, peeping through the luxuriant foliage 
that embowers it. It is a home for a poet. Before the railroad 
was built, the lawn extended to the river side, and a little creek 
making up immediately below, gave the estate a situation like 
a little cape. It was a great annoyance to the quiet student, 
to have his place invaded by the ** march of improvement," 
and he expressed the wish, that he " might have been born after 
the world was fairly finished." 

We now enter upon the Tappan Zee, passing on the East, 
Sing Sing, the location of the fiimous New York State Prison, 
and on the AVest, the village of Nyak, where Major Andre was 
executed. We pass quickly, through the fleet of vessels which 
covers the waters of Tappan Zee, and enter upon the Highlands 
through Haverstraw Bay. In rapid succession we see on the 
west, the villages of Haverstraw, Grassy Point, Stony Point, 
with the old Fort Clinton. Opposite Stony Point, is Verplanck 
Point. Above, on the east, is the picturesque village of 
Peekskill, and we are now in the beautiful region of the 
Highlands. The hilfs rise abruptly from the water, the steamer 
in some instances passing within biscuit throw of the shore. 
The slopes are covered with verdure, and fine trees, prominent 
among which is a beautiful species of cedar, growing with its 
lower limbs close to the soil, and rising in conical form, affording 
a most pleasing object in the landscape. Some of the hills are 
almost perpendicular precipices, where the foot of man has 
scarcely trod. The heights seem impregnable, and Wa^hingion 
showed his consummate generalship, in fortifying these strong 
positions, and making the Hudson the base of his operations iu 
the North through the whole Ptevolutionary war. Had the 
treachery of Arnold been successful, the issue of the struggle 
would have been most disastrous to the colonies. We are now 
drawing near to West Point, our first landing place since 



WHITE MOUNTAIN GUIDE. 145 

leaving New York. As we approacli the wharf, we see Cozzens' 
Hotel, a fine building overlooking the river, and occupying 
one of the finest sites for its purposes, to be found in the region. 
At the landing place arc omnibusses to convey passengers to 
the different hotels. If one wishes to reach West Point by 
railroad, he must purchase a ticket for Garrison's, where he 
will find a small steam ferry boat, to convey him across the 
river. The route by railroad passes through the villages enu- 
merated, on the east bank, and follows the river in all its wind- 
ings, passing through tunnels of solid rock, and over bridges of 
massive strength. Some of the views obtained from the several 
points, which jut into the river, are exceedingly fine, and will 
convince the traveller that whether he goes by rail or boat, the 
trip up the Hudson is most delightful. 

West Point has a national interest, as the site of the United 
States Military Academy, for the training of officers for the 
United States Army. The village is pleasantly situated in a 
basin formed by the depression of the land between the river 
on the cast, and a semicircular range of hills on the west. It 
is almost completely separated from the outside world, and fur- 
nishes a most retired and excellent place for the purposes of its 
location. It is fifty-two miles from New York, and is reached 
in two hours and a half by rail, and three and a half hours by 
boat. Two good hotels furnish the traveller with the very best 
accommodations, at the price of $2.50 per day. Cozzens' 
Hotel is [about a mile below the landing, and is a first-class 
house. Roe's Hotel, is somewhat nearer in a northerly direc- 
tion, and has the additional advantage of being in the immediate 
vicinity of all the objects of interest. The parade ground of 
the Cadets is directly in front, and all the evolutions of the 
military drill in the Infantry, Cavalry, and Artillery service can 
be easily witnessed. During the months of July and August, 
svith a portion of June and September, the Cadets live alto- 
gether in encampment, and the sojourner at Roe's will not be 
13 



146 WHITE MOUNTAIN GUIDE. 

disagreeably disturbed from bis morning slumbers, by the sound 
of the reveille, almost beneath his windows. From the rear 
piazza of the hotel looking up the river is enjoyed a view of uu" 
surpassed loveliness — being the reverse of that so familiar, 
looking down the river from Newburg. On the southern side 
of the Parade Ground, opposite the hotel, are ranged, the stone 
stables for the horses, and drill rooms, the Library, the resi- 
dences of the Professors, and the barracks for the Cadets, the 
Arsenal and Laboratory. At the latter place may be seen some 
trophies of the Revolution, a brass mortar, captured at Stony 
Point, two smaller ones taken from Burgoyne, and a part of the 
chain, which Putnam stretched across the river to obstruct the 
passage of the British Ships of War. Above, are the ruins 
of Fort Putnam, which has so romantic and interesting a his- 
tory, and from the summit of which an exquisite view is ob- 
tained. Not the least of the matters at West Point, which will 
interest the student of history, is the monument erected to Kos- 
ciusko, upon the eastern edge of the Parade. Among those 
which will interest our fair readers, are the triweekly hops at 
the Hall of the Academy, for the gratification of the Cadets 
and their numerous visitors. 

Leaving \V^est Point, where a most enjoyable visit may be 
made, we pass Uxdercliff, on the east, the residence of Geo. 
P. Morris, and Idlewild on the west, the residence of N. P. 
Willis. Then we stop a few moments at Newburg, a busy 
town, the residence of the late A. J. Downing. Fishkill lies 
opposite, on the east bank. Farther on, is Poughkeepsie, on 
the east side, a well built and pleasant town, with considerable 
trade, equidistant from Albany and New York, and beyond the 
Highlands. To compensate for the loss of these, tho Cattskill 
Mountains begin to loom up in the distance. Snugly ensconced 
upon the side of one of the highest, may be seen the Mountain 
House, the finest hotel in the region. Cattskill Landing is 
reached, from New York, about 2 o'clock, P. INI., by boat ; 



WHITE MOUNTAIN GUIDE. 147 

Oakhill station by rail, with ferry across, somewhat earlier. 
A ride of four hours by stage, mostly ascending, through the 
regions of Rip Van Winkle, and affording most delightful 
glimpses, through the trees, of the widening prospect, brings 
the weary traveller to the hotel, which for neatness, elegance, 
beauty of situation, and all creature-comforts, is unequalled on 
the river. The view from the Table llock, on which the house 
stands is most captivating. You look down a precipice, hun- 
dreds of feet in depth, and over the wide-lying, intervale farms 
on the plains below, to the noble Hudson, flecked with the 
white sails of passing vessels, while the mountains of Vermont 
and New Hampshire in the distance afford a fine background to 
the beautiful picture. The Catskill Falls are distant about a 
mile and a half from the hotel, and are well worth a visit. 
Price of board at hotel, $3.00 per day ; Omnibus to Falls, 50 
cents ; Stage from Steamboat Landing, $1.25. 

Above Cattskill, there are villages lining the banks of the 
river. The most considerable place on the east side is Hudson, 
a city of some importance. Above this, are Columbia, Stuy. 
VESANT, and Kinderhook. Greenbusii, opposite Albany, with 
which it connects by means of a ferry boat, is the terminus of 
the Hudson River Railroad proper, and, also, of the Western 
Railroad, between Boston and Albany. 

Albany is the oldest city in the Union, with the exception of 
Jamestown, Va., but its antique appearance is gradually yield- 
ing to the progress of the time. Only a few relics remain. 
The most prominent objects in the city are the Capitol, on State 
St., the Museum, the Academy, Stanwix Hall, and the City 
Hall, the dome of which is imposingly gilded. There are some 
fine churches, and some fair hotels. The Delevan House, and 
Congress Hall have the widest reputation. Of these, the latter, 
though most distant from the landing must have the preference. 

A few miles above Albany is Troy, on the East bank of 
the Hudson, and connected with its great rival, by ferry to 



148 WHITE MOUNTAIN GUIDE. 

Greenbusli, and tbence by rail to Troy — the cars running at 
short intervals, and connecting immediately, at both yjlaces, with 
all the trains north, east, south and west. The railroad station 
at Troy is very commodious, and admirably arranged and 
managed. The city is very neat, and contains some fine 
churches, a Female Academy of some celebrity, and good ho- 
tels. Of these, the Troy House is the best. The Union, 
Mansion House, and American are to be ranked next. The 
last house, though not so fashionable as the others, has the rep- 
utation of cleanliness and comfort. 

On the opposite shore is the United States Arsenal at Gib- 
bonsville. 

Leaving Troy, the traveller has a choice of two routes to 
Rutland, Yt. ; one over the Troy & Boston Road to Eagle 
Bridge, connecting there with the Rutland & Washington Rail- 
road, or over the same road to Nortu Bennington, connecting 
there with the Western Vermont Railroad. If he take the 
former, he will pass through Lansingburg, an exceedingly 
pleasant town ; and, (after leaving Eagle Bridge, which is the 
place of junction for two or three railroads,) Salem, a place of 
considerable importance. North of Salem, he will pass into the 
State of Yermont, and find himself amid all the beauties of the 
Green Mountains. The Great Haystack is in sight from this 
road. The track crosses the line again above Pawlet, Yt., 
and at Middle Granville, the road is in New York. Four 
miles from this latter station, lies Nortu Granville, a most 
retired, pleasant, healthy, and picturesque village, the site of a 
Female Seminary of deserved reputation. Crossing again into 
Yermont, we stop a moment at Castleton, a lovely little village, 
the junction of the Whitehall and Saratoga Railroad ; thence to 
Rutland, arriving if by morning train, about 1, P. M., if by 
evening train, at 9, P. M. 

The route, over the Western Yermont Railroad, passes 
through Shaftesbury, Arlington, and Sunderland, all pleas" 



WHITE MOUNTAIN GUIDE. 149 

ant villages, to Manchester, one of the jBnest towns in this 
section of Vermont. A capital hotel has been opened here 
within the last few years, called the Equinox House, and is be- 
ginning to be a place of great resort, on account of the natural 
beauties of the place, the fine drives in the neighborhood, and 
the reasonable prices for the excellent accommodations which 
are afforded. Dorset, Wallingford, and Clarendon have an 
air of comfort and quiet. 

There is a third route from Troy to Rutland by way of Sar- 
atoga, passing through Ballston. Leaving Saratoga by the 
Saratoga & Washington Eailroad, the traveller passes through 
Gansevoort, More an, Fort Edward, the site of a good 
Academy, Fort Ann, Comstock's, 'Whitehall, and Hyde- 
ville to Castleton, there joining the Rutland & Washington 
Road. The times of arrival on all these routes are very nearly 
the same. 

Rutland is the shire town of Rutland County and is one of 
the most important places of Central and Southern Vermont, 
containing about 4000 inhabitants. The central village is a 
thriving, comfortable place. The Bardwell House, situated 
very nearly opposite the Railroad Station, is a fine structure of 
brick, containing one hundred commodious rooms, and is 
altogether just such a home, as the tourist desires, after a hard 
day's travel. The charges are moderate ; (per day, $2.00 ; 
per week, $7.00 to $10.50 ;) the table is well furnished and 
attended ; the rooms are neat, clean and abundantly supplied ; 
all substantial comforts are provided without offensive display. 
Situated as Rutland is, at the junction of four railroad routes, 
and within easy distance of Lakes Champlain and George, and 
almost in the midst of the mountains, it is a most desirable 
place for summer resort. The extensive Marble Quarries, the 
" Springs " at Clarendon, celebrated for their medicinal quali- 
ties, Sutherland Falls, called by Willis, "one of tlie loveliest 
places in the world," and Killington Peak nearly 4,000 feet 



150 WUITE MOUNTAIN GUIDE. 

high, the loftiest peak of the Green Mountains in this region, 
are all in the immediate vicinity, and can be visited at a small 
expense; while "mine host," Cooke, will see that in-door ar- 
rangements for good living are not wanting. The disciple of 
Isaak AValton will find the best of trout fishing in the neighbor- 
ing streams, ponds, and lakes, and declare with Isaak, that 
angling " has a calmness of spirit, and a world of other blessings 
attending upon it," as he spends the long days of summer in 
his favorite sport. 

Rutland is distant from Troy 83 miles ; Albany 93 ; New 
York 234 ; Bellows Falls 53 ; Boston 1G7 ; Whitehall, N. Y. 
25 ; Saratoga Springs G3 ; Lake George 60 miles. On the 
north is Burlington, 67 miles, and farther still Montreal, 167 
miles. Fares are as follows : from Burlington, $2.00 ; Mon- 
treal, $4.50; Troy, $2.50; Albany, $2.60; New York, by 
Railroad, $5.50; by Steamboat, $3.50; Whitehall, $0.75; 
Saratoga, $2.24; Bellows Falls, $1.60; Boston, $4.60. 

On leaving Rutland, should the tourist prefer to ride across 
the country by carriage, sending his baggage by rail, he can 
easily procure horses, and proceed to White Eiver Junction, 
through a most delightful region of country. A daily stage 
also runs between Rutland, Woodstock and White River. The 
distance is nearly 40 miles, and can be travelled in a day, if 
one chooses, though the attractions of the way might well cause 
him to linger on the route. The road passes through the 
pleasant villages of Mendon, North Sherburne and Sher- 
burne, around the base of Mt. Killington, and through the 
Green Mountain range, at this point descends along the Quee- 
chee River, through Bridgewater into Woodstock. This 
quiet and charming town is the county seat of Windsor County, 
and contains a celebrated Medical College and an Arsenal be- 
longing to the United States. It has a population of little more 
than 3000. Departing from Woodstock, the road winds along, 
by the Queechee, leaving, at a short distance on the right, 



WHITE MOUNTAIN GUIDE. 151 

QuEECHEE Village, wbich instantly recalls Miss Warner's 
pleasant book, of the same name, and perhaps written among 
these scenes, and soon reaches its termination at White River 
village in the town of Hartford. 

Should the choice fall upon travelling by rail, the tourist will 
find the pleasantest scenery all along the Rutland Railroad. 
The stations are at some distance from the villages, whose in, 
habitants the road accommodates, with but one or two instances. 
Clarendon is a mile or more from the central part of the town, 
which has a celebrated medicinal spring. Cuttingsville is in 
the north-eastern part of Wallingford. At Mount Holly, tho 
traveller will notice the deep cut through the solid rock, ex- 
tending a considerable distance. This is the summit of tho 
road, as it crosses the mountains. Ludlow lies pleasantly on 
a little stream, a branch of Black River, several hundred feet 
below the Railroad, and presents a cheerful appearance, as one 
looks down upon it from the lofty position of the track. It is a 
manufacturing and agricultural town of some importance, con- 
taining about 2000 inhabitants, and has a bright, thrifty aspect. 
Proctor's and Dutton's are in Cavendish, a pleasant town. 
G assetts' accommodates the small village of Baltimore ; Bar- 
ton's the town of Springfield ; Chester, and Rockingham, 
the towns of the same name, and the trains arrive at Bellows 
Falls, in 2^ hours from Rutland. 

Bellows Falls, by this route, is distant from New York 
287 miles. Fares by this route from New York, by rail, $7.00 ; 
by boat to Albany, $5.00. 

From this point he continues up the Valley of the Connecti- 
cut to White River, and thence by Littleton to Franconia as on 
the 114th and following pages. 

Distances to Franconia are as follows : From Boston by way 
of Fitchburg, Keene, and Bellows Falls, 224 miles ; by way of- 
Lowell and Concord over the Northern Railroad 214 miles • 
by way of Concord over the Boston, Coucord and Montreal 



152 WHITE MOUNTAO GUIDE. 

Railroad to Wells River, 195 miles; to Plymouth, thence by 
stage, 148 miles ; from New York by way of Troy and Rut- 
land, 400 miles; by way of Hartford, Springfield, and Bellows 
Falls, 345 miles. Fares from Boston, either route, $7.00, by 
stage, $6.25 ; from New York by boat to Albany, rail to Rut- 
land, &c., 89.50 ; by rail to Albany, &c., $11.50 ; by way of 
Hartford, «fec., $10.50. Time from Boston, by Littleton, 13 
hours, by Plymouth and stage 10. Time from New York, in- 
cluding stoppages at Rutland and Bellows Falls, 37 hours. 

"We have completed the description of the routes to the moun- 
tains as well as the description of the mountains themselves. 
We have seen that all the various routes are condensed, in 
reality, to three, as we approach the mountain region ; one 
leaves us at Gorham, on the eastern side ; the second at White 
Mountain Notch ; and the third at Franconia. Whichever one 
may be chosen, we would urge that the whole range, from 
Franconia to the " Glen," be visited if possible. In no other 
way can a complete idea of all the beauty and loveliness of this 
** Switzerland of America " be gained. It is well, also, to go 
by one, and return by another route. Tickets to and through 
the region should not be purchased at a distance, as circum- 
stances may render it desirable to vary from a plan first laid 
down. Travellers coming from the Canadas, either by Bur- 
lington, or by the Grand Trunk Railway, should especially 
avoid purchasing through tickets with privilege of visiting the 
mountains on their journey. To use these tickets, travellers 
are compelled to leave the mountains at the place where they 
first approached, and must thus, frequently, needlessly retrace 
their steps. 




fc^ If »^r«^ aS-J «^aj^ >^ "^ ij^ 



= = = - 



1« 



^#lr ^=? isl %iJ 



Situated on the promontory of Nahant, in Massa- 
chusetts Bay, 

A Quiet and Delightful Summer Resort, 

Combining the rare luxury of a constant ocean 
breeze, with the best facilities for 

BATHING AND SAILING, 

While the wild freaks of Nature displayed in its 
romantic surroundings, please and interest both 
the lover of novelty and geology. 

No tourist should leave New England without 
visiting this charming Sea Side retreat. 



N. B. — Steamboat and Railroad communication 
with Bosto7i daily. 



mi'j 






CONCORD, N. H. 




DIRECTLY IN FRONT OF THE STATE HOUSE, 

DTJMA.S & NORTOIT. 

Passengers carried to and from the Cars free of Charge. 



PAEOI HOUSE, 

SCHOOL ST., BOSTON, MASS. 



H. D. PARKER 
JOHN F. MILL 



:\ ^Mi^MWi!®'^ 



WEIASB'S HOm. 

This House is so located as to offer superior inducements to 
the Travelling Public, as a 

** Shady Retreat from the Heat of Summer !" 

Connected with this Establishment is a LIVERY STABLE, 
and Fishing and other parties visiting the 

WILL BE FURNISHED WITH THE BEST OF "* 

HORSES Ara^MJm^ES^AT^^ 
Bowlm^ Alleys, Swings, &c., attached to the House. 

A. L. MORRISON, Landlord. 

GILFORD, CLaconia Station.; 




wiKiifs & mm ! 



tij-Whitford&Drew 

^_J^ SUCCESSORS TO CARTER & WHITFOED, 

- ^ DE AIDERS IN 

Watches, Clocks, Rich Jewelry, Silver Ware 

1 » ■ » > 

_ PERSONAL ATTENTION will be given to Watch Repair- 

mg, and all work will be warranted to give perfect satisfaction. 

KF- All kinds of Jewelry repaired in the best manner. We have a 

large stock of Rich Jewelry, and feel confident that we can suit all cus- 

T^'l'Z'S" ^'^^ ^f ^""^ ^'"^^^^ <^<^o^s. We have a good assortment 

ot t AJ^S constantly on hand, together with all the goods usually kept 

bmed Store. Also, Agents for Grover & Baker's Cele- 

FAMILY SEWING MACHINES, 

NO. 184, MAIN ST., EAOLE HOTEL BLOCK; 
Concord, N. H. WHffTFORD A; BREW. 



UNITED STATES HOTEL, 

BY SOLOMON MYRICK, 

Jvmotion of Federal, Elm, and Congress Streets, 

PORTLAND, ME. 

. « ^■^ » 

The United States Hotel is on the most direct 
route from Boston to the White Mountains, and is 
located in one of the most beautiful cities in New 
England. 

It has been recently re-furnished and fitted up. 

The proprietor will spare no pains to render the 
stay of his patrons agreeable. 



BBlBROOn WHITE MOUmiH HOUSl, 

Located near tlie Old Fabyan Hotel, 
WHITE MOUNTAINS, N. H. 

A good carriage road to within two miles of the 
summit of Mt. Washington from this House. 

Horses and Carriages to convey parties to all 
points of interest around the Mountains. 

Saddle Horses always at hand to convey parties 
over Mt. Washington to the Glen House and Gor- 

ham. 

Coaches arrive and leave daily for Littleton, 
Franconia Mountains, Conway and Glen House. 
G. T. BRABROOK, Proprietor, 



LITTLETON, N. H. 



Board from 4 Dollars to 7 Dollars per Week. 

Passengers conveyed to and from the Depot free of charge. 
Horses and Carriages always in readiness for 
the accommodation of travellers. 



DISTANCES. 






Crawford House, 


24 Miles, 


Fare $2.00. 


Profile " 


12 ^' 


a 


1.00. 


Flume " 


17 " 


a 


1.50. 


Lancaster, 


20 « 


is 


1.25. 


St. Johnsbuiy, Vt. 


18 " 


a 


1.00. 


" Should old acquaintance be forgot, 
And never brought to mind, 




Should old acquaintance be forgot, 
And days of Auld Lang Syne." 







The subscriber respectfully calls the attention 
of the Travelling Public, to the above card, and 
assure to all who may favor him with their patron- 
age, good accommodations and the hest of care -, and 
doubly assures them that the system of '- bleeding " 
is never a part of his practice. 

WILLIAM COBLEIGH. 



CSAWFOSB HOUSE, 

WHITE MOUNTAINS. 




BY J. L. aiBB. 



This House is situated at the Notch of the White Mountains, and is 
pleasantly located for pleasure seekers. It contains some two hundred 
sleeping apartments, with 

You will find at this house good fare — the tables being always loaded 
with the delicacies of the season — and good and attentive waiters ; in 
fact you will find this a 

MODEL HOUSE. 

PONIES may be secured here for the ascent of Mt. Washington, 
with Careful and Gentlemanly Guides to accompany you. 

Be sure and Book your Name 

For a Pony to the Summit as soon as you arrive, as oftentimes the 
Ponies are engaged several days in advance. 

The Price of Board at this House is $2.50 /?^r day* 



No pains will be spared to render the stay of visitors 
pleasant and agreeable. 



EDSON C. EASTMAN, 
^iil)Ii5|cr, §00hselIcrt^St Alter 

160 Main St., Concord, N. H. 



PLAIN WORBS TO YOUNG MEN, 

By Rkv. AUGUSTUS WOODBUllY, 

Of Providence, R. I. 



SANBORN'S SCHOOL MOTTOS. 



THE WHITE MOUNTAIN GUIBE. 



School, Classical and Miscellaneous Books sup- 
plied to Country Dealers at lotvest rates. 

E. C. E. is also Agent for the State of New 
Hampshire for the 

New American CyclopsBdia, 

BENTON'S ABRIDGEMENT OF THE DEBATES IN 
CONGRESS, 

Burton's Cyclopsedia of Wit and Humor, 

and all other Subscription Boohs published by 
D. APPLETON & CO. 



1^^ Orders hy Mail or Express j^unctnally attended to. 



Worcester d Nashua 



Passenger Trains Run as Follows : 

Leave Worcester, at G:20, and 11:15, A, M., and 

4:30, P. M. 
Leave Nashua, at V:00, A. M, 12:00 M., and 5:15 

P. M. 



ALL those trains connect at Nashua with trains to and from 
Concord, and at Groton Junction and Worcester with the 
trains to and from Fitchburg, Boston, Lowell, Providence, 
Norwich, New York, Springfield, Albany, &c. 

THE SPI^EIVDID STEAMERS 

COMMONWEALTH 

A N D 

Which leave New York every afternoon, except Sunday, at 5 
P. M., from foot of Courtlandt Street, connect with first train 
from Worcester and last train from Nashua. 

The first and second trains from Nashua, and last train from 
Worcester, also connect with Express Trains to and from 
New York, via Springfield. 

NO CHANGE OF CARS 

"Bet^xeen ^\orcesteY and Xe^i YoyY. 

^^ Passengers for New York via Norwich, can secure Berths 
or State Rooms on board the train after leaving Nashua. 

G. W. BENTLEY, Supt. 
Worcester, May 24, 1858. 



RAILROAD. 



Passenger Trams ^\VWxw\i as M\o^s : 

Leave Boston, from the Boston & Maine, or Boston 

& Lowell Depots, at 7:30, A. M., 12:00, M., and 

6:00, P. M. 
Leave Lowell or Lawrence, at 8:30, A. M., 1:00 

and 6:00, P. M. 
Leave Nashua, at 9:05, A. M., 1:35, and 6:35, P. M. 
Leave Manchester, at 9:45, A. M., 2:00, and 7:00, 

P. M , 

Connecting at Concord with trains of the Boston, Concord 
and Montreal, and Northern and Passumpsic Railroads, 
making the shortest, quickest and plcasantest route to the 

mm m frihconii mountiiiis. 



No Change of Cars or Bag^gage between Concord & Littleton. 

Trains leave Concord for Boston, Lowell, Lawrence, 
&c., at 5:30 and 10:15, A. M.,and 4:00, P. M., or on 
the arrival of trains from the above named roads, making 
close connection at Nashua with trains of the Worcester 
& Nashua Raih'oad, for New York, Springfield, and the 
West. The 4:00, P. M. train is Expressed through to 
Norwich, connecting with Steamers COMMONWEALTH 
and CONNECTICUT for New York. 

J. A. OIL.MORE, J^upt. 

Concord, May 25, 1858. 



WHITE tiiD FRmcomi MOUmiflS ! 

WILLOUGHBY & MAGOG LAKES, 

Via the Northern (N. H.) Eailroad. 



PASSENGER Trains leave Concord, on arrival of trains from Bos- 
ton, Worcester, &.C., for Wells River, Littleton, St. Johnsbury, Bar- 
ton, Burlington, Rouse's Point, Montreal, Ogdensburg, &c., at 10:35, A. 
M., and at 3:00, P. M., for Bristol, AVIiite River Junction, Northfield, 
Vt, &c. 

Trains leave White River Junction, at 7:00. A. M., and 1:25, P. M, 
or on arrival of trains from the Vermont Central and Passurapsie 
Roads, connecting with trains leaving Littleton after the arrival of 
Stages from the White and Franconia ^lountains, for Boston, Ports- 
mouth, Lawrence, Lowell, Worcester, Providence, Newport, New York, 
&c. 

VISITORS TO THE WHITE MOUNTAINS AND 

i^i^.A.isrco3sri.A. isroTCxa:, 

From Boston, New York, and the South ; via of Portsmouth, Law- 
rence, Lowell, Nashua, Worcester, Norwich, Providence, Concord, 
Northern, Passumpsic and White Mountain Railroads to Littleton , 
(which is about twelve miles from the Franconia Notch, and twenty 
miles from the Wliite Mountain House, and much the nearest point to 
the Notch of the Franconia and the White Mountains reached by Cars) 
will find this a pleasant route, through the Valley of the Merrimack 
and Connecticut Rivers, by Dartmouth College, Norwich University, 
the Sulphur Springs of Newbury, Vt., and as quick and cheap as any 
other route. 



NUMEROUS STAGES 

Connect with the Roads, and leave Bristol for New Hampton, 
Hebron, Groton, N. H, ; Barton, Yt , for Willoughby and 
Magog Lakes, Stanstead, Island Pond, and from various Sta- 
tions on the Passumpsic Road to the principal towns in the 
northern part of New Hampshire, and Vermont, and Canada 
East. 



WIfflPISAUKEE LAKE, 

NORTH COiWAl WHITE AND FRANCONIA 

M:oTj:[srTA.iisrs. 

Via Boston <f Maine and Coeheeho Railroads^ Steamer 
Dover ^ and Stages from Wolfboro^ and Centre Harbor, 



This is the only route that traverses the whole length of the Lake. 

SUMMER ARRANGEMENT, 

UHfTIL. FrRTHER IVOTICE. 



LEAVE the Depot of the Boston & Maine R. R., Boston at 7:30, A. 
M., for Coeheeho R. R., at Dover, connecting at Alton Bay, with 
the splendid Steamer Dover, for Wolf boro' and Centre Harbor, 
Dining on board the Boat. Thence by Stages through to Conway same 
evening. Also connect with P. M. trains for Plymouth and Franconia. 
An Accommodation Train will leave Dover daily at 1 o'clock, P M., 
taking travel from the East, and from the line of the Eastern K. R , 
connecting at Alton Bay with Steamer Dover, for Wolf boro' and Cen- 
tre Harbor same evening, and on Tuesday, Thursday and Saturday for 
Meredith. 

Leave Boston at 3 o'clock, P. M., for Dover, Rochester, Farmington 
and Alton Bay. Returning, the Steamer Dover will leave Meredith, 
Mondav, Wednesday and Friday, at 5, A. M , Centre Harbor daily, at 
6, A. M., and 1:15, P. M., Wolf borough, at 7:30, A. M., and 2:30, P. M. 
for Coeheeho R. R., connecting at Dover with B. & M. trains for Bos- 
ton and Portland. Also with trains on the P. S. and P. & Eastern R. R. 

Passengers from Salem and Danvers, and Lowell and Law- 
rence R. R., by taking the 8:30. A. M. train from Lawrence, 
can visit Centre Harbor and return the same day. For change 
of time, 1^ See Snow's Boston Pathfinder. Also, Appleton 
& Dinsmore's New York Railroad Guides. 

OEO. IV. KIIflBALIi, l^itipt. €. R. R. 



OLD MAN OF THE MOUNTAIN 




PROFILE HOUSE, 

^^HITE MOUNTAINS, 

BY THE 

Flume and Franconia Hotel Comp'y. 



HIRAM BELL, Manager 



This House is beautifully situated in the Notch, within 
a few rods of the '' Old Man of the Mountain," " Echo 
Lake," " Mount Cannon," and the " Crystal Cascades." 
It commands a fine view of " Mount Lafayette," to whose 
summit is a bridle path. This House has large and ele- 
gant rooms, and the furnishing throughout is arrranged in 
modern style. It is much the largest Hotel in the State, 
and has become the favorite resort of accomplished tour- 
ists. The scenery around is remarkably bold and roman- 
tic. 

Poiit Office Address : 

" Profile House, N. H." 



WHITE MOUNTAINS. 

BY THE 

Flume and Franconia Hotel Compy, 



i^o Eo I0)111F(O)1. MiVlli^^lEc 



This House is loccated in the midst of the most attractive scenery of 

It is within one mile of the Flumc, Cascades and Basin ; 

one-half mile from the Pool ; and five miles from the 

OLD MAN OF THE MOUNTAIN. 

Penimigewasset Mountain, immediately in the rear of the 
Hotel, can be easily ascended by ladies. It makes a delightful forenoon 
ramble. The view down the Pemmigewasset valley from its summit, is 

GRAND AND BEAUTIFUL. 

Mt. L.afayette is only three miles distant. A path leads to its 
summit. The view from its highest elevation, only a few hundred feet 
below Mt. WASHINGTON, has been thought by many to exceed that 
of its rival. 



are always in readiness to convey visitors to these different objects of 
interest. The location of this House presents unrivalled attractions for 
families wishing to tarry at the mountains. 

Guests of the Hotel will receive every attention from the Manager, 
to render their residence pleasant and agreeable. 

POST OFFICE ADDRESS, 

Flume, Grafton Co., N. H. 



Boston, Concord & Montrea 

M][ INDlmpOUIIIllllX 

Passenger Trains Run as FoUows 

cHtZl^SZJi"'^-''- """ ''■ ^- ^■'^ I-0-". Nashua, Ma„ 

i^eave balem via Lawrence or Lowell • ' 

Leave Portsmouth via Concord. ' 

1 rains leave Concord, at 10:30, A. M and ^ P \t /• e ^ 

m .^"^^^ ^^ ™E LAKE, 

Which runs to Centre Harbor and Wolf borough --at Wplk p- • u 

YoTrarriSi»ir^.rr?nre^^ 

tCP Passengers ha?e time ,o dfoe atH;mou,h eaeh^daf" '""• 

Harbor for Coniav; Plymouth for FrancSv V h^r^^^ "' '^'"'"<' 
White Mou„,ai„s;rran,?oraLancaf™^^^^^^^^ 

Ha\or.zi^e\y^';yt's;it%^:ino\^:?s^r;^*^ 

mg the next day to th? Mountains "" ^'''^''°' proceed- 

MouJ^a--"^ 

• THESE ARE THE OLD AND FAVORITE ROUTES." 
r«M.„H.N „,,8.8 •'**"^ T- COFFIIV, Agent. 



ihsi 0- ti^ii 



LIBRARY OF CONGRESS 



013 787 226 2 (^ 



